Car has been discontinued for a few years. Tamiya America may still have some, as these were purchased before some BIG changes in personnel and how TA orders from Japan.

I have all the different versions of the EVO's, and each is better than the last. The IV was a great car, and could still be updated to be very competitve too. It was the first to have the lightweight suspension. The V was an update to the chassis and drivetrain components with the same suspension parts.

I currently run an EVO V non MS, and its very competive localy. I also have a 416. Kinda work back and forth to see if I can get each one better than the other, then race the better one.

The only parts that will break will be the suspension bits, and these are interchangeable and updateable. Besides, you will probably want to switch to the newer upgrights and other bits after burning through a few sets of the 950 wheel bearings. The later TB03/416 uprights use a more durable 1050 bearing...

FYI: The best 950 wheel bearings I've used are the TRF fluorine sealed ones. Don't ever clean or even try to dust them off (you will push dirt past the seal). Simply throw a new one in when you find one that's gone flat inside. rdvtg-hobbies on eBay sells them (part# 42112) for $5.30 a pair (plus $2/$1 shipping)

Thanks for the insight guys. I will keep the Evo and let you know how it goes. It did seem like a pretty solid deal.

The difference is the Evo V MS has more steering in comparision with Evo V. As of now I am using Evo V. However for parts our LHS has more for Evo V than IV as many of the parts has been discontinued. If needed will have to wait by special order to Tamiya Japan.

that evo IV for $230 is a steal, yes you can still get parts no problem!

Stock clearence?

I was thinking about getting this for the longest time, but it will just end up like my TA03s, on the shelf. Then the M-05 Pro was released, so I went with that instead. Otherwise, that is a good price for a TB EVO IV.

I ran my car a few times at the local indoor track this week (carpet with rubber tires). The car seems to pull a lot to the left under heavy acceleration. I'm using a Havoc Pro 17.5 brushless system with 2s Lipo's. I'm not sure if the differential is not adjusted correctly or if it is something. else.

Tweak will do that or your front end isnt aligned. Align the front and balance the car.

I went over the car at the track making sure that the right and left toe out (slight only) were the same and that the steering tie rods were the same same length. I will check this all again. Maybe i missed something. i will also check balance. Anything else I should look for?

make sure nothing is bent/broken, thuroughly go over the car

I completely went through the front of the car. Nothing seemed to be bend or broken. Interesting thing is, after putting it back together I took it out for a test drive. The more the traction compound, which had been applied yesterday, "burned off", the straighter my car took off from launches. So this leads me to another question; what ill effects can using to much traction compound have on traction, if any? And, what is the best way to apply it? I used Niftech btw.

Sorry for being a total knewbie.

umm well I've never heard of niftech, so i cant comment on its greatness or lack thereof. Make sure the tires are very clean and have no foam tyre particle buildup or "rubber shifting" going on. First clean them thuroughly with motor spray and a paper towel. Then after they are very clean and have a nice shine to their surface, apply traction compound to the inside half of the front tires.

Let the compound soak in for 10-15 minutes. Wipe them off and go for a test run.
Oh and try a different set of tires.

I have some Sorex on order. The local hobby shop has a terrible selection of tires. Thanks for your help.

good to hear man, sorex tires are very good in build quality and construction, very consistent and have great longetivity.