Hy!

Yes Tamiya makes a spool for the EvoIV

49359 RC Front Direct Coupling Spool - TB Evo IV

The problem is that it is already discontinued, and very hard to get.

Greetz Blueman

Any one have one of these cars they want to sell?
Thanks

jhigga... hit up "Dotman" on here. i know he has at least 2. and he's going to sell them.

I have a new in box EVO IV MS edition and a built EVO IV with a Kai chassis for sale. It also comes with the stock chassis.

Hy there!

I the last winter season i planed also to sell old boy Evo4MS, but then when i looked at it and with the tons of spares a have i changed my decisionand tuned it in a few points (H0 Rear uprights, setup as my Evo5/415MSXXMRE) and now use it when i am at the countryside over the WE, on my local Clubtrack there.

I run it with 9,5 BL on 5cells, and it runned very well.

By the way, the Yeah Racing Alu Diff outdrives also are a perfect fit.

Greetings Blueman

Hi guys,

I know I'm only about 4 years behind everyone else, but I have just purchased one of these kits at a great price and am building it up to run at my local state titles on just under 2 weeks (Victoria, Australia). I know it's older technology but I imagine it will still keep up OK if I set it up right.

I was wondering, are the stock plastic rear diff outdrives OK for running 17.5t brushless? (ie are they likely to break or split). I can't seem to find a tamiya part to fit...will the outdrives from another car (say evo 3, evo 5 or TB03) fit? I would prefer to buy genuine Tamiya but if another brand works, that will do.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

I have an Evo IV, and the stock outdrives will be okay for 17.5. Just make sure you keep the aluminum ring around the outdrive so it will not split. I think, but do not quote me on this, but I think 415 aluminum outdrives will work if shimmed properly. But I have yet to try it out. I know Tamiya USA sells a new Evo IV for $250.

Oh one other thing, is yours the Evo IV or Evo IV MS? If you have just the Evo IV, then you need to watch out for the centershaft drive cups, they break very easy. Get some aftermarket aluminum ones. If you can't find any, I posted a fix for this many years ago when the kit first came out.

The best outdrives wich are now available are the Yeah Racing TB Evo3 Oudrives. (The Evo3 and Evo4 share the same outdrives).

rcmart has them in stock. I buyed a spare one last week. (The required blades are included!

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-evo...h=595_744_1234


They are a perfect fit, and the quality is supreb! They look like Tamiya self made them.

If you only want Tamiya parts, then go for the white delrin TB Evo3 Surikarn Edition reinforced outdrives. Part number 53627

I will highly recomend the yeah racing ones. I tested it with 9,5T BL Motors, and it worked very very well

Greetings Blueman

Thankyou very much guys for the info. I wasn't sure if anyone still used my dinosaur car and wasn't expecting such a quick response! Do you guys still race your Evo 4's, and how do you find they keep up with the newer cars? I imagine the improvement with chassis technology over the past 5 years has been fractional (if that makes sense)

I paid $350 AUD (about $260 US) but the kit included a heap of additional spares including additional top deck, aluminium centreshaft drive cups, clear (smoke) gearbox covers, and a couple of additional centre drive shafts (maybe a couple of other things...cant remember at this stage. Also I live iun Australia and purchased locally, so saved a heap on shipping which I otherwise would have paid from Tamiya US, so all up it's quite a bargain. To put it into perspective an Evo 5 MS would have cost me approximately double which I couldn't really justify.

The car is a standard TB Evo 4, not the MS, however in addition to the extras that came with the kit, I've purchased the separate motor mount and the pro rear end...both Tamiya branded items.

As for which outdrives to go for...I'm torn. I would prefer Tamiya items and imagine the plastic outdrives would obviously wear before the driveshaft (sacrificial if you like) however the chance of plastic breaking is always on my mind, and if you say the Yeah Racing ones are good I'm inclined to take your advice. (If it were 3 racing that would be another storey!)

Anyway thanks again and I look forward to the car hitting the track.

Cheers,

Steve

I race my Evo4 at my local Home Racetrack at the countryside. Made a second set of pitequipment, so i only have to take my tools, and my radio with me when i am there.

There are a few 1/10 touring nitros, and two guys with HB Cyclones. One of them is a Cyclone TC, and also runs the same motor Combo.

I have no problem to keep up with him, and we also run equal laptimes.

The most improvement at the car are the "H0" rear uprights from the 415 MRE.
I have attached the uprights in all of may cars, (Evo4, Evo5, 415MSXX).

As for the outdrives, go for the yeah racing ones. I also only purchase Tamiya quality for usual, but i that case there is no better available.

Greetings Blueman

Would anyone know if the steering rack arms are the same ones as TA05 arms? I have one that is bent and need to replace the right side one. I wouldn't mind getting my Evo IV back up and running. Gonna run 416 suspension on it.

Thanks again guys for your help. I ended up ordering 2 pairs of the genuine Tamiya delrin outdrives (was tempted to get the Yeah Racing stuff...might order one soon anyway).

I do have another question...I have heard something with shaft drive cars about shimming the drivetrain. When I inserted the front one way and rear diff into the bulkhead, there was some sideways wobble...I added a couple of extra shims to one side to almost eliminate this lateral movement. Is this all I should be doing or do I need to stop the centrehaft from moving also? Maybe I should only do the centreshaft and should have left the front and rear stuff alone...can someone please clarifiy before I run.

One of these days I'll get time to read the 300 odd page long thread about this car!

Cheers,

Steve

Shim both the diff and the center pinion. You don't want any play, but you want them to be as free spinning as possible. The mess between the crown gear (center gear) and diff gear should be tight enough not to have excessive play between them, but loose enough to spin freely. Do not use any grease on the gears. Use dry lube such as bicycle dry chain lube, gun dry lube, or any form of spray on dry lube. Liquid Wrench sells something called Dry Lubricant. But shimming is very important in maintaining a free and long lasting drive train for these cars.

Thanks Jimmy...I have shimmed her up as best I can. Really looking forward to giving this a run