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-   -   Tamiya TB-Evolution IV (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/38204-tamiya-tb-evolution-iv.html)

SammyZ 05-21-2009 07:45 PM

do you have any hi-res pics of your cars?

JimmyMac 05-21-2009 08:20 PM

Mine is in pieces right now. Gonna toss on 416 suspension. Maybe I'll snap some pics once I'm done. Plus I have to fix my bent steering arm. They tend to bend if you don't run servosaver and crash really hard.

SammyZ 05-21-2009 08:40 PM

im confused:confused: I know the trf416 uses the same arms that come standard on the Evo IV so im not sure what your changing?
http://i41.tinypic.com/25q3atz.jpg

JimmyMac 05-22-2009 12:09 AM


Originally Posted by B18C Turbo (Post 5844036)
im confused:confused: I know the trf416 uses the same arms that come standard on the Evo IV so im not sure what your changing?
http://i41.tinypic.com/25q3atz.jpg

Let me correct myself... I'm switching to 416 WE or Evo V arms. The short arm set. But the 416 did come with new hubs, caster blocks, and spindles with 10x5 bearings and not 9x5 bearings. :blush: Also with C/C front and XA/E rear blocks. I never ran long arms on my 416.

SammyZ 05-22-2009 08:19 AM

oh nice man!:D
The evo IV/416 arms are 2mm longer than the Evo V/416WE short arms? Am i correct on that:confused:

Does the Evo V/416WE arms, hubs, & knuckles drop right onto the evo IV?

stephenianjames 05-22-2009 08:58 AM

Hey guys,

A couple more questions

(1) have you guys run the evo 4 without the stabiliser bars? I prefer to keep things simple and am wondering what effect not-running the stablisers would have.

(2) I have fitted the optional pro (David Jun) rear end...does this offer any real advantage?

Thanks,

Steve

JimmyMac 05-22-2009 05:57 PM


Originally Posted by B18C Turbo (Post 5845601)
oh nice man!:D
The evo IV/416 arms are 2mm longer than the Evo V/416WE short arms? Am i correct on that:confused:

Does the Evo V/416WE arms, hubs, & knuckles drop right onto the evo IV?

No, Evo IV arms are 1mm longer than Evo V arms. Everything drops in, only problem is you also need to change out the axles. Evo IV axles do not fit the new hubs.

JimmyMac 05-22-2009 05:59 PM


Originally Posted by stephenianjames (Post 5845731)
Hey guys,

A couple more questions

(1) have you guys run the evo 4 without the stabiliser bars? I prefer to keep things simple and am wondering what effect not-running the stablisers would have.

(2) I have fitted the optional pro (David Jun) rear end...does this offer any real advantage?

Thanks,

Steve

I normally run without swaybars. What is your track like? High traction? Big and fast?

I never ran the DJ suspension. I thought I heard is helps with low traction. Just be careful if you crash. I think they tweak easy.

stephenianjames 05-23-2009 09:04 PM

Thanks Jimmy,

I ran the car for the first time today, practising at my local track. It was very quick for a 17.5t brushless, geared at around 3.65 FDR, but I found it wanted to oversteer when powering out of corners especially when turning right. Would this be an effect of torque steer?

I would have thought a 17.5t wouldn't be too bad with TS. A fellow racer has suggested lessening the front droop and increasing the rear(currently it is at 5mm front, 4mm rear) which he tells me will decrease power on steering. I'll give this a go and race at a club meeting this coming Wednesday night...the only chance before the state titles. I hope I can get it sorted in time!

Are there any other tips to making the thing more stable through the turns?

Cheers,

Steve

SammyZ 05-23-2009 09:15 PM

if it cuts hard to the right? has it been on a tweak station?

JimmyMac 05-23-2009 10:12 PM

Is the car balanced left to right? Less front droop should help take out some on power steering.

stephenianjames 05-23-2009 10:55 PM

B18C, I don't have access to a tweak station unfortunately. The car has only just been built so I'm hoping it's not tweaked, although I guess you can tweak it when building to.

Jimmy mac...the car isn't balanced left to right as yet...it is right side heavy so I'm sure this does have a big effect on the handling also. The problem is the car is right on the legal racing minimum without any balast (1400gms with body, no transponder). I may well need 50 or 100gms on the battery side (currently running a IP3800 25C lipo) to get the balance right. Is it OK to put the ESC on the top deck...I would have thought this raises the COG too high...my receiver is tiny but my ESC rather large so this might be the answer...obviously the servo if fixed as is the motor.

Thanks guys again for such rapid responses...do you run your cars overweight to get the balance right. Could someone please post a pic of their electronic setup on this car?

Cheers,

Steve

SammyZ 05-23-2009 11:01 PM

no i run my cars underweight because i am a cheater. Even if the car is new you woudl still need to tweak the car on a tweak balance tool of some kind.

The car usually does wierd and unpredictable things as you described unless you put it on this tweak device. I know there are several companies that make them. It looks like this.
http://i40.tinypic.com/bhhvkh.jpg

stephenianjames 05-24-2009 12:45 AM

Thanks B18C...is this the same as a setup station?

Excuse my ignorance but I thought tweak was the chassis (or another component) warped duw to impact or fatigue etc.

SammyZ 05-24-2009 06:16 AM

your right, tweak can be caused by both of those problems. No this is different from a setup station. In my opinion a setup station is an expensive paperweight. The car will always be different when on the wheels/tires your running.

This tweak station will balance the car from left to right using spring preload collars. Its an excellent tool and should be mentioned in all instruction manuals.


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