Speedtech RC has tons of EVO-IV parts.

On another note...I have one I'm thinking of selling. It's pretty optioned out (just about everything you can get from Tamiya, DJ rear and all)...any suggestions where I should sell it? It seems like this place isn't too good to sell cars.

I'd like to get $300 out of it, if only as a static art piece...I've never raced it (got it used, fixed it up some and stopped racing onroad). I just like staring at it. Beautiful car.

Ebay? I've never sold anything there before (only bought stuff)...seems a little tricky to get it right...maybe another RC board out there?

speedtech usually has all that you need. Jason's Store off of ebay has a pretty good selection of stuff too. If all else fails, try Rainbow Ten. If they don't have it, the it's probably out of stock at tamiya too!!

vic

I just got some extra arm from Speedtec and the Much More Tire Warmers...Quick Shipping!!!

I agree, Speedtech is probably the best in the states.

I need a favor if any of you guys can help. I am breaking out my Evo4 for our new spec class but we are using stick pack batteries and I lost my plastic parts for the battery mount and strap. Anybody that runs side by side batteries have a set laying around they can kick down? Happy to pay shipping for some parts that I am guessing most of you don't use.

TIA

fraz, if you don't get the plastic parts for the stick pack mounting, you can tape stick packs in using the two tape slots in the middle of the chassis. It's not as clean as using the holder, but it works. The middle tape slots are also useful if you're using split side by side packs, like ones from a saddle pack car. :D

i have a new ride (yes a evo iv)
bit slow in catching up with you lot

since there are not many setup sheets
droop (where to start )
oil`s on carpet rubber

is worth using the metal ring for one-way or go over to plastic

where can i get a carbon battery strap (taping is for loser`s :p )sean T

springs
are the all white ones (hard tuned) better then the muti coloured ones

got any poundage rates for these things
roll bars (sean T they work ;) )
part no. for r/bar set

staying with normal 9x5 bearings coz even the yoke ones 10x5 pack up regulary aswell

do the X blocks of 415 fit on evo apart from being 1mm lower ,is this better ??

is the tamiya spool up to it (strong enough)

Mr. Jolly,

As far as the springs are concerned, you can pick up the complete set of the Associated touring car springs and they work perfectly on the Tamiya shocks. Plus, there's a nice little piece of paper in there that gives you the rating of each spring. On our carpet track here in the states (CEFX Raceway) the Associated purples on the front and the coppers on the rear seem to be the hot ticket.

Tony

Mr Jolly & RcCzar,
Wow, heavy springs... what oil are you running RcCzar?

I am trying 50wt front and rear with Tamiya White springs on the front and Tamiya Yellow on the back.

But then I use battery tape (loser :p )
Also, I have an extra stock battery strap, the plastic one if you need it MrJolly.

I would be interested in more setup ideas. I am running on carpet with rubber tires (TakeOff27).

Thanks,
John

jw, I'm runnin 50wt front and 40wt rear. Runnin foam tires on carpet. Purples and Plaids. I also tape my batts. That entire battery strap assembly is just dead weight in an already heavy car.

Tony

jolly ive got a battery strap think its plactic though if you want one sent up for free. Im startin with 40wt front 40wt rear blue springs front yellow rear, thats what i was advised by sean :sneaky: and its working so far. If you get your evo 4 going like it was at plymouth id need a copy of your set up :p

Jolly,
Ali diff ring is for 1 way only. Most important thing that I have found with my evo was to put rubber "O" rings under all top deck screws to avoid tweaking a very tweaky car.
2nd most important thing I have found is to check orange sponges in shocks. These go above the diaphrams and when they go flat with wear then they just dont work properly.
The spring chart I have is the one that the springs come on.
Red = soft
Yellow = medium
Blue = stiff
White = extra stiff

Roll bars Mmm , I tried them on my "MSX" this weekend and have to eventually agree that they work. I used 2 degs castor which wasnt the best idea so I have already put 4 on.
Your set-up wasnt far off at Plymouth Colin ---- Mine was :flaming:

The battery strap I used to use was of the mission with a very slight file to one of the holes. I also used 2 ball cups with the cups cut off screwing upwards alongside the batteries to stop the batteries shifting out sideways.
Got to say that tape is easier and better in blue :nod:

Oh Yeh....
If you are getting a spool then get the xenon one with metal outdrives cos the plastic ones with break as soon as you look at a barrier.

just been racing 40wt front & rear but 2 hole pistons
wasen`t very nice atall going back to 3 hole 50wt blues springs all round 4 deg castor

got a plastic one it`s crap need a nice carbon one

sean you are right though it does twaek very easily

rzcar
we are on rubber on carpet so your spring`s will be way to hard setup for us

I carefully countersunk the upper deck and the car doesn't hold a tweak like it used to.

Since fitting the ally "T" between decks and using the rubber "O" rings then I havent had any tweak problems.
I use losi 40wt with 3 holes on my nearly new sorex 24's ;) Colin.
Maybe instead of countersinking the carbon topdeck you could use the countersunk washers , I think they make them in tamiya blue aswell... SWEEEEEEEET.