I had to use counter sunk washers on top deck screws to keep it more tweak resistant.

Can I just chop off the top of this pillar to make it flex more? Can't seem to find those aftermarket pillars Wc posted. And if someone has the pillar part number.

http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/8454c2ea.jpg

Hy!

What kind of Lipo holder do you use? Custom made, or attached from another car?

Greetings Rainer

It's from exotek RC but had to modify a little to make it work

Haxe you drilled extra holes in the chassis, or does the stick pack mount holes fit?

Greetings Rainer

Don't worry about any special lipo holders for this chassis. With the motor running in the direction that it does, the chassis is completely balanced without any mods. Use the stock battery holders and tape them in. No need for the top battery hold down. Trust me on this, I know this chassis very well. I TQ'ed the tamiya worlds in 2007 and helped my friend at the iic and roar nats podium twice.

i did not have to drill any holes in the chassis.. i did have to drill a hole in the battery riser piece "J2 in manual" to put a screw in it... i'll try to take a picture of it later to show you. Also, as Juan stated, you really do not need this, you can just use tape. I just like carbon fiber..haha..

@ JUAN or anyone else..

anyone have any thoughts/suggestions on me chopping off the top of that battery holder to allow more flex?? already have it removed from the car, about to put a dremel too it...

Whats your setup? This car has tones of steering. I run a spool and short suspensionarms. Cc up front and 2 to 3 degrees rear toe

i am also running a spool up front with regular arms. Have not picked up the short arms yet. Also, i only have the suspension mounts that came with the car, believe its A. car seems fine on a high bite track.. not so great on the tamiya usa track though, rear kicks out alot...

at this point, i am just trying to make the car more tweak resistant thats why i wanted to know if chopping off the top of that mount would help... or maybe not even using some of the screws on the top mount to maybe losen it up...

I use the metal support instead of the plastic one. The plastic one, if you over tighten will tweak the car. Sounds like you may have your shocks laid down too much in the rear. At the tamiya track, I would run yellows all arounds or blue front/ yellow rear, 6 and 5 droop, 5 mm ride height, 1 1/2 camber and shocks 40wt front and rear with shocks in middle hole. And make adjustments with shocks from there. Use the 3 holes side on the arms and use the middle hole of the three. I would start the camber links as long as possible with a slight angle. If your diff sucks, that will make the car spin out in corners all day long.

i found the y alum support brace, its for the evo IV MS edition...

as of right now, setup:

droop (5 front, 4 rear),
yellow springs all around
4.5mm ride height
40wt fr, 30wt rear shock oil (2 hole pistons)
camber at -1 all around
shock location (front 3-2) (rear 4-4)

i'll break down my rear diffs to take a look tonight... thanks again..

the tamiya tb evolution iv /ms to me are getting harder to find for sale i know this may be in the wrong forum. i was wondering if anyone is happening to be selling their tamiya TB evo 5 please send me a message if you are thanks again

Here are the pics of the exotek lipo brace.

http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/2946e3d8.jpg

http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/efe61ae8.jpg

Lipo brace looks like a bit of work to fit :(

I'm just using velcro straps, gotta remove rear pillar as brick packs are too long.

Maybe someone should custom-cut something for TBevos,
make it usable across IV/IVms and 5/5ms.
TBeIII is a lot shorter again.


you can just throw the whole thing out :lol: u don't need it, we ran without

if running without its best to fit some stops to stop battery hitting shaft.
We used proline plastic wing nuts, or there's some oval little bits from
TBevo tamiya sprues that are never used - works perfect.