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Originally posted by Hebiki wes, the reason i bring it up is i found something a bit weird last night. i race at socal (with wood barriers and concrete retaining wall). when i launch my car off a metal dot into one of those lovely concrete walls.. the car naturally gets tweaked. well.. i always take off my pinion and spin the drive train. i noticed that after a major crash, the motor mount moves every so slightly and binds up the bearing that holds the rear input shaft. i took off the screws that hold the upper deck into the motor mount and they dont line up correctly. so i always check for tweak now (after every run) and make sure the drivetrain spins freely AND check the motor mount also. i also took a reamer and made the holes a TAD bit bigger for the motor mount screws. |
Hehe Chris, my drive train got more free so you didn't hit hard enough:) I got a radio hit going down the back straight in my first qualifier and caught so much air I just about cleared the entire straight. The wing just barely nicked the pole!! If I would have hit it at that speed it would have surely broken the car in two.
Even though I an new to mod on asphalt, that was fun. The car was definitely fast and occasionally hooked up. If I had a track like SoCal in my back yard I'd be there every day! What I did notice getting tweaked often is the rear suspension mount when you clip something. you will get a bunch of front to back slop on the a-arm on the side you hit. If you loosen and tighten it again, all will be good. |
Originally posted by fraz Hehe Chris, my drive train got more free so you didn't hit hard enough:) I got a radio hit going down the back straight in my first qualifier and caught so much air I just about cleared the entire straight. The wing just barely nicked the pole!! If I would have hit it at that speed it would have surely broken the car in two. Even though I an new to mod on asphalt, that was fun. The car was definitely fast and occasionally hooked up. If I had a track like SoCal in my back yard I'd be there every day! What I did notice getting tweaked often is the rear suspension mount when you clip something. you will get a bunch of front to back slop on the a-arm on the side you hit. If you loosen and tighten it again, all will be good. |
Hi, just wondering what is this car like in stock racing(27T) and what hop ups(option parts) i should get if i et the IV after the new year :nod:
Chazz |
I use a Q-Tip to CA the chassis edges.
The car is pretty good in 27t. I would get the aluminum input shafts. The stock ones are very heavy. I would also get the aluminum drive/input cups. The stock ones can/will break or split in a crash. A way around this is to use an outdrive ring around the stock plastic input cup. I posted this several several pages back. But sometimes this can cause a slight bind in the car. It other Words... it won't be as free. Other than that... 2 swaybar kits... some springs.. and you'll be off to a good start. Some spare parts as well. Rear hubs are a tad weak and sometimes might be molded wrong. Check your rear toe on a setup station to make sure yours are good. You could also get some aluminum rear hubs as well. Oh... and don't forget to get suspension blocks. The stock blocks give you like 3degree rear toe. Invest in a set of D's, C's, B's, and A's. Maybe an X block as well? For stock I'd run an A/A or A/B block in the rear. Up front a C/A or B/A. Hmmm I think that's it. Everything else can come later. |
Oh, I also run AE springs on the car instead of Tamiya. But if I run Tamiya springs.. it's usually the Yellow/Yellow combo anyways.
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Originally posted by KilRuf I use a Q-Tip to CA the chassis edges. The car is pretty good in 27t. I would get the aluminum input shafts. The stock ones are very heavy. I would also get the aluminum drive/input cups. The stock ones can/will break or split in a crash. A way around this is to use an outdrive ring around the stock plastic input cup. I posted this several several pages back. But sometimes this can cause a slight bind in the car. It other Words... it won't be as free. Other than that... 2 swaybar kits... some springs.. and you'll be off to a good start. Some spare parts as well. Rear hubs are a tad weak and sometimes might be molded wrong. Check your rear toe on a setup station to make sure yours are good. You could also get some aluminum rear hubs as well. Oh... and don't forget to get suspension blocks. The stock blocks give you like 3degree rear toe. Invest in a set of D's, C's, B's, and A's. Maybe an X block as well? For stock I'd run an A/A or A/B block in the rear. Up front a C/A or B/A. Hmmm I think that's it. Everything else can come later. |
Originally posted by KilRuf I use a Q-Tip to CA the chassis edges. The car is pretty good in 27t. I would get the aluminum input shafts. The stock ones are very heavy. I would also get the aluminum drive/input cups. The stock ones can/will break or split in a crash. A way around this is to use an outdrive ring around the stock plastic input cup. I posted this several several pages back. But sometimes this can cause a slight bind in the car. It other Words... it won't be as free. Other than that... 2 swaybar kits... some springs.. and you'll be off to a good start. Some spare parts as well. Rear hubs are a tad weak and sometimes might be molded wrong. Check your rear toe on a setup station to make sure yours are good. You could also get some aluminum rear hubs as well. Oh... and don't forget to get suspension blocks. The stock blocks give you like 3degree rear toe. Invest in a set of D's, C's, B's, and A's. Maybe an X block as well? For stock I'd run an A/A or A/B block in the rear. Up front a C/A or B/A. Hmmm I think that's it. Everything else can come later. ;) |
Yes, more steering... :D
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Originally posted by KilRuf Yes, more steering... :D |
Originally posted by Galifrey Damn, now I gotta go and buy a load of upgrades for mine... ;) |
hopups
here's how you can go overboard hopping up the evoIV :D
delrin outdrives (from evoIII) Ti screws aluminum or Ti turnbuckles flourine coated ball studs flourine coated ball ends blue aluminum shock top/caps blue aluminum shock retainers Ti axles (tamiya or square) front one piece alum. input shaft/drive cup rear alum input shaft rear alum drive cup clear diff covers Tamiya lightweight shaft or Team Bomber graphite shaft. (a must for stock racing) a sway bar kit. servo mount/transponder holder from Square Xenon aluminum center braces (3) alum sway bar holders ceramic bearings (if you really want to go overboard ;) ) X - E suspenion blocks 1 deg alum rear hubs 1.5 deg alum rear hubs 0 deg alum rear hubs did i miss something? :D |
Originally posted by KilRuf Yes, more steering... :D i guess E/X would be overboard huh? :lol: |
I have an X block here, maybe I'll toss that on and give it a try hehe. Well... I'll let you try the E/X up front... :D
Yeah, I forgot about the mainshaft. It's heavy as well. I haven't seen the Tamiya lightweight one yet. I run the TeamBomber mainshaft. BUT.... what sucks is I have to take it all off since I'm converting the car back to TCS specs. :rolleyes: |
Originally posted by KilRuf I have an X block here, maybe I'll toss that on and give it a try hehe. Well... I'll let you try the E/X up front... :D Yeah, I forgot about the mainshaft. It's heavy as well. I haven't seen the Tamiya lightweight one yet. I run the TeamBomber mainshaft. BUT.... what sucks is I have to take it all off since I'm converting the car back to TCS specs. :rolleyes: but i have more than enough steering now. just gotta find more corner speed :) my car is basically TCS legal except for the long turnbuckle for the servo. im using a lunsford for that. the Tamiya lightweight shaft is the same weight (when compared by hand. :lol: ) as the Team Bomber. it also has "tamiya" etched into it. so its pretty cool looking. |
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