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11-07-2003, 04:57 AM
#4741
To all with Speedmerchant Q's.... Sorry I havent been able to answer them quickly (racing went really late at the track last night, lol) I should respond to everyone around noon. Thanks!
11-07-2003, 08:04 AM
#4742
At the Ohio race it was an IRS car 1st.
11-07-2003, 08:45 AM
#4743
odpurple- Does your car push? It would seem to me with that set up it would. I normally run something similar in mod, except 35 fronts, .022's and a 17lb center spring (black SM spring) and 80weight.
adam- it not centering is probably caused by a few things howevering trying to go around it with wicked stiff side springs isnt probably a good idea (unless you mean orange, which is the softest, even then however...)
A fast car is hard to drive, it has alot of steering and doesnt scrub speed however, as a result it does not always track straight. Also low roll center cones help, since it keeps the car from transphering as much weight at a high cone.
Nexus- That pic is correct, except its a graphite chassis, not black fiberglass like shown in the pic.
baboon- I normally run ascari's at club races however, i am going to run a parma speed 8 since i heard the new carpetis wicked high grip to start with, and I wont need the steering of an ascari (dont want to traction roll either).
dandy- All us American's use those silly screw sizes! lol I like 3mm however, almost no one uses them in the US, so it dont think any US based cars will be transphering over any time soon, sorry.
junkie- I respect your opinion however....
-As far as how many parts it includes... The reason it does not include those parts are because they are servo specific.
-Damper tubes: I have gone over this 100x however to sum up. They are aluminuim they bend in a hit. The NEW SP tubes are quite positivly "money" lol.
-The chassis on the Rev. 3 is MUCH stronger, and stiffer, the CRC cut out the back of the chassis way to much. Thats why they tried to comensate with the chassis brace...
-Lets talk about the other triple crown races. It TQ'd and won (a different driver TQ'd than won) at the silver city shootout. At the nats it TQ'd and won by Alex Lopez who had barely run the car prior to the race.
-Roll center: I highly doubt that you did not prefer the low roll center. You have to add some steering since the car does not transpher the weight like it did with a high roll center, but its much easier to drive fast, and carries more speed.
Those are the main points that i wanted to address however, i dont quite agree with you 100% on your other statments.
yobbism- That is correct.
Sorry if i missed anything, I am rushing through my lunch break typing this all up! lol.
adam- it not centering is probably caused by a few things howevering trying to go around it with wicked stiff side springs isnt probably a good idea (unless you mean orange, which is the softest, even then however...)
A fast car is hard to drive, it has alot of steering and doesnt scrub speed however, as a result it does not always track straight. Also low roll center cones help, since it keeps the car from transphering as much weight at a high cone.
Nexus- That pic is correct, except its a graphite chassis, not black fiberglass like shown in the pic.
baboon- I normally run ascari's at club races however, i am going to run a parma speed 8 since i heard the new carpetis wicked high grip to start with, and I wont need the steering of an ascari (dont want to traction roll either).
dandy- All us American's use those silly screw sizes! lol I like 3mm however, almost no one uses them in the US, so it dont think any US based cars will be transphering over any time soon, sorry.
junkie- I respect your opinion however....
-As far as how many parts it includes... The reason it does not include those parts are because they are servo specific.
-Damper tubes: I have gone over this 100x however to sum up. They are aluminuim they bend in a hit. The NEW SP tubes are quite positivly "money" lol.
-The chassis on the Rev. 3 is MUCH stronger, and stiffer, the CRC cut out the back of the chassis way to much. Thats why they tried to comensate with the chassis brace...
-Lets talk about the other triple crown races. It TQ'd and won (a different driver TQ'd than won) at the silver city shootout. At the nats it TQ'd and won by Alex Lopez who had barely run the car prior to the race.
-Roll center: I highly doubt that you did not prefer the low roll center. You have to add some steering since the car does not transpher the weight like it did with a high roll center, but its much easier to drive fast, and carries more speed.
Those are the main points that i wanted to address however, i dont quite agree with you 100% on your other statments.
yobbism- That is correct.
Sorry if i missed anything, I am rushing through my lunch break typing this all up! lol.
11-07-2003, 09:50 AM
#4744
not pushing
Storm-
The car doesn't push at all. The setup is basically one I got from our track owner, a Speedmerchant driver. The carpet we race on has been rolled up over the summer and has some wierd bite. everyone with a side spring car has had problems with traction rolls (traction hooking, really) and this setup helps. One thing I did not mention that really helps is radically rounding off the corners of the front tires (q-balls, as it was put). We now have a new term at our track: "did you Q-ball your fronts?"
O'D
The car doesn't push at all. The setup is basically one I got from our track owner, a Speedmerchant driver. The carpet we race on has been rolled up over the summer and has some wierd bite. everyone with a side spring car has had problems with traction rolls (traction hooking, really) and this setup helps. One thing I did not mention that really helps is radically rounding off the corners of the front tires (q-balls, as it was put). We now have a new term at our track: "did you Q-ball your fronts?"
O'D
11-07-2003, 09:54 AM
#4745
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
REV3
Hey, Ruben, you have a good memory. Good to here from you. Unfortunately the R3 is still on the shelf untouched and gathering dust , since I received it. In excellant shape I might add. The profession I chose 35 years ago (yes I'm an old BULL) requires that I work 60 to 70 hrs a week from May to Nov. BUT then I get too PLAY Nov. to April. (Can't put hot asphalt on frozen ground). I put that post on the forum from work the other day and didn't have the car to look at. I will try the car (as is) next week and go from there. We have brand Ozite carpet , tonight will be its baptism.
regards,
Terry
BUT WAIT THERES MORE ..... sounds like the BLOODY KNIFE and the 3.1 (parts car) could be on the market soon so I can buy a second Rev3. Maybe yours at the end of the season again. If I can wait that long.
regards,
Terry
BUT WAIT THERES MORE ..... sounds like the BLOODY KNIFE and the 3.1 (parts car) could be on the market soon so I can buy a second Rev3. Maybe yours at the end of the season again. If I can wait that long.
Last edited by THEBIGBULL; 11-07-2003 at 11:18 AM.
11-07-2003, 01:17 PM
#4746
odpurple- Just curious, whats his name?
Also every track is different, so nothing works everywhere. If its dialed, its dialed.
And ya, I q-ball my tires too at big races, lol. Traction rolls are caused by too much front grip. The front tires are basically throwing the rest of the car over them (if that makes any sense). So there are other things you can do like running stiffer front springs to keep the weigh from transphering, and alot of other stuff.
Also every track is different, so nothing works everywhere. If its dialed, its dialed.
And ya, I q-ball my tires too at big races, lol. Traction rolls are caused by too much front grip. The front tires are basically throwing the rest of the car over them (if that makes any sense). So there are other things you can do like running stiffer front springs to keep the weigh from transphering, and alot of other stuff.
11-07-2003, 04:45 PM
#4747
Q-ball racing
Storm-
It's Scott Tomasello. He's been great help getting my car to work. The car being thrown over the front tires may not make sense untill you've had your car do it. Once I figured out what the car was doing I could see that the fronts would dig in, the rear would tip and then come down and the car would hook right into the board. At first I blamed the tape joints on the carpet, then I figured there were bumps in the rug. It all went away with the right setup. We're racing on Fanfare (is that what it's called?) which seems to have a lot more bite than Ozite anyway.
O'D
It's Scott Tomasello. He's been great help getting my car to work. The car being thrown over the front tires may not make sense untill you've had your car do it. Once I figured out what the car was doing I could see that the fronts would dig in, the rear would tip and then come down and the car would hook right into the board. At first I blamed the tape joints on the carpet, then I figured there were bumps in the rug. It all went away with the right setup. We're racing on Fanfare (is that what it's called?) which seems to have a lot more bite than Ozite anyway.
O'D
11-07-2003, 04:57 PM
#4749
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
OD...... this is Ruben. What setup changes did you make? Curious, I practiced wih my Rev 3 after the first race and didn't have any traction rolling problems and I've been out since that race due to health issues.
stormperson ...... what would you reccomend for traction rolling problems? I know that I did have a problem a one of our races last year and was not able to figure it out.
stormperson ...... what would you reccomend for traction rolling problems? I know that I did have a problem a one of our races last year and was not able to figure it out.
11-07-2003, 05:23 PM
#4750
i saw the light
Hey Ruben-
Maybe the bite wasn't up enough yet at the first race, but everyone noticed it by the next Wed night. Kevin ran my CRC car that night because he left his car at home (dummy!) and after the race described exactly the same symptoms as I had with the Rev3.
anyway:
Blue sides
Black center (SM 17lb), 60 wt, no droop
24 fronts, 2 deg caster
Whites and Purples (Q-balled, baby!) 48 and 46mm
Losi medium in der tubes
Speed 8
Ask Scott to see the email from Speedmerchant, it's very informative (like a revelation). It's all about the traction rolling thing.
O'D
Maybe the bite wasn't up enough yet at the first race, but everyone noticed it by the next Wed night. Kevin ran my CRC car that night because he left his car at home (dummy!) and after the race described exactly the same symptoms as I had with the Rev3.
anyway:
Blue sides
Black center (SM 17lb), 60 wt, no droop
24 fronts, 2 deg caster
Whites and Purples (Q-balled, baby!) 48 and 46mm
Losi medium in der tubes
Speed 8
Ask Scott to see the email from Speedmerchant, it's very informative (like a revelation). It's all about the traction rolling thing.
O'D
11-07-2003, 05:57 PM
#4751
FYI: Info from Bruce
Rev.3
Chassis. Even though your chassis comes partially assembled, you should take it apart so you can properly file the battery slots and drill/countersink your chassis for your servo. You should only file the chassis/battery tray so the cells sit flush with the bottom of the chassis. They should never hang below the chassis.
Suspension. Although not necessary, it is beneficial to polish all the metal suspension balls and front kingpins. This is easily accomplished by chucking up a 4-40 tie rod into your Dremel or hand drill and thread the balls on. Then using a quality metal polish, spin them in a clean rag. The kingpins can be chucked up by themselves doing each end individually. Note: The Front Suspensions Arms are right and left pieces. When mounted flat on your Rev.3 chassis with the front end pointing away from you. The upper arms’ kingpin bulges should face forward.
VCS Shock. Assemble the VCS shock according to the included instructions. We recommended 80 wt. Shock fluid with the heavy silver spring to start. Generally, the stiffer the center spring the more steering your Rev.3 will have.
Ride Height. Should be level or slightly nose high.
Caster. You should start with a 2-degree caster shim under each suspension arm. More caster will give the car less “cut”, but more steering exiting the corner. Less caster will do the opposite.
Toe. Toe in will make the car easy to drive and slightly less responsive. Toe out will give the car more “cut” going into the corner but less strait line stability.
Side Links. Thread the four rod ends onto the two adjustable turnbuckles, leaving just under 1 inch of the turnbuckle showing between the plastic rod ends. Now, starting with either side snap on one of the side links. Note: It’s a good idea to have the turnbuckle aligned so that tighter/shorter is in towards the chassis and looser/longer is away from the chassis. Next, you can thread in the two 2/56 screws into the side link you have installed. Note: These screws are only to prevent the links from popping off. They are NOT to be tightened around the balls snugly; this will cause serious binding in the rear suspension. There should be a large gap between the ends of the adjustable rod ends when properly set. After you have one side link installed, lay your chassis on a flat table with a piece of white notebook paper underneath it. Now by adjusting your turnbuckle make the gap between the chassis and the lower pod plate equal on both sides of the center pivot socket. Once you have the link properly adjusted you can snap on the other side link. Once again, you can thread in the 2-56 adjuster screws so the link won’t pop off while adjusting it. To adjust the 2nd link take the chassis in your left hand and with your right hand wiggle the lower pod plate side to side. It will probably “click” or have a “bound up” feel when doing this. Slowly adjust the 2nd link in either direction. Note: Adjustments to the turnbuckle should be no more than 1/16 of a full turn at a time. After giving the turnbuckle a small adjustment feel the side to side movement again. Did it get better or worse? If it got better go in the same direction again, if it got worse go in the opposite direction. Repeat these steps until the side to side and the fore & aft movements are free. If a link is too long the side to side movement will “click”, if too short it will feel “bound up”. Note: Never re-adjust the 1st link when trying to free up the rear end. The 1st link is always correct if you initially adjusted it properly.
Damper Tubes. You must trim your twin damper tubes to fit you Rev.3 chassis. To do this pull the male/female damper pieces apart. Now with a very sharp hobby knife trim each end as follows. The female should be trimmed to 2 1/8 inches end to end. The male side should be trimmed to 2 inches. Make sure to remove any burs. Losi soft, medium, and hard Hydra Drive fluids all work well in the damper tubes.
Servo Mounting. The servo should be mounted so that the front of the servo case is equal with the rear of the suspension arm mount. The off-set of the servo should be to the passenger side of the chassis. Use a small Kimbrough servo saver. Mount the tie-rod ends to the front of the servo saver in the upper most holes. This will give the best Ackerman angle for your Rev.3.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is our most recent set-up.
Front End:
Tires-Start with Purple, if you feel the car is pushing, go to TRC Magentas or JACO 35's if you can get them. For club racing purples usually do the trick, but sometimes the softer fronts are a must with how fast batts and motors are today. Start at 1.78"
Springs-We usually run .20's. If the track has a lot of 180's you might drop down to .18's. Generally run as soft as you can without the car "over rotating" leaving a turn. If the track has lots of high speed sweepers we'll go up to .22's. I don't think we've ever used .16 or .24's.
Polish your front kingpins. They get grungy suprisingly quick. Keep an eye on them. A sticky front kingpin will make a car handle like crap. When you only have 3/16 inch of travel, it better be smooth.
2 degrees toe-out. This usually gives the car a nice balance, with enough "cut" into the corner. If the car "cuts" too much, go to zero toe.
Make sure you mount your tie-rods to the upper and outer holes on your Kimbrough servo saver. This is very important for the correct Ackerman angles. Also make sure your servo is centered and mounted right up to the back of the passenger side suspension arm.
Depending on which rims you use, you might have to shave some plastic off of your outer ball cups so they don't bind under max. steering throw.
We almost always stick with 2 degrees of caster.= 1 shim.
Back:
Generally we run that Batt. in the "back" position, but this really depends on the track and what you personally like. When the battery is in the back of the car, it gives you more traction, and is usually easier to drive. With the battery moved forward, the car rotates 180's better and has a little more "cut" but less overall steering. This is a little confusing, because most people think that more weight up front equals more steering. In reality, when the battery is in the back position, it allows for more weight transfer which actually gives the car more overall steering. You just have to wait that split second for the weight to transfer to get the additional steering. Hence, why batteries up front give you more cut but less total steering.
Side springs.-Orange or Blue most of the time, and then white if you need a little more cut, or if the car feels lazy going through cut-backs. Never over-preload the side springs. Crank them down just enough to tweak the car. Besides bound up links, this is the largest mistake I see done to Rev.3's. It's very important that the springs "work", which allows the chassis' weight to transfer which gives you steering and traction.
Shock-We usually run Asc. 80wt. shock fluid with our Black spring. If you need more traction, or your track is really bumpy we'll go down as far as 30 wt. and the Asc. blue spring. Generally, if you drop your shock fluid you should drop your spring also.
Damper Tubes-We use Losi light, medium, and heavy fluids. With how fast today's cars are, we usually run light. It lets the car "return" to center quicker. If the track is really large with high speed sweepers we might go to medium or heavy. Your damper tubes should be adjusted in conjunction with your side springs. Put "together" you have a shock, so much like your center shock, when you go heavier on the sides, you can increase you tubes damping.
Tires-Jaco or Trc Grey rears. Start at 1.90
Droop-Your shock length controls how much droop you have(i.e..-how far past horizontal your rear pod hangs in relation to your chassis). Generally we run about 2 or 3 degrees. Again, if your track is really bumpy, you can back the ball cups off your shock to lengthen it and give your car a little more droop. Never go more than 5 degrees(the car will unload too much going into tight turns).
Stock gearing-With today's motors(stock) and batteries we generally run 27-30/100 or 28-31/104. If your track is really tight you would want to be down around 27. Don't gear for run time, gear for lap times. Most of the time we run a smaller pinion than we think we should. It just gets the infield done that much quicker.
Links-MAKE SURE THEY ARE FREE AND STRAIGHT!!!!! This is by far the most important part of your Rev.3. If your links aren't perfect the rest of your preparation is useless. The instruction pamphlet has a good description on how to adjust them correctly. During a race day, check your links after any big accident or if the car just feels inconsistent. To check them during a race day. 1)remove batteries, 2)remove top plate(over motor), 3)take out motor, 4)remove tweak plate(unscrew the two pan heads that go through the main chassis. Now you can feel them for binding/smoothness. It's very important that the motor is removed. Because of it's weight it doesn't let you "feel" the movement of the rear assembly. If they feel bound, remove one front screw for one link side, adjust the opposite link so the graphite "gap" is even, reinstall the screw you removed, and adjust that link until the links are free again.
Note: It is necessary to remove the motor top plate to put the motor in and out of your Rev.3. Our chassis has the motor over 20 thousandths compared to an ASC 12L. Today's motors are much heavier than when the 12L was designed. When drawing the Rev.3 I weighed and measured the newer style motors and centered them within our rear pod. Some people force the motor through the bottom of the car. I think it's pretty easy just to remove the 3 button heads and not force anything.
We use Paragon tire traction and we dope 3/4 front and full rear. Usually we put it on for about 15 minutes, and try to be wiping it off just as you are getting ready to run.
Rev.3
Chassis. Even though your chassis comes partially assembled, you should take it apart so you can properly file the battery slots and drill/countersink your chassis for your servo. You should only file the chassis/battery tray so the cells sit flush with the bottom of the chassis. They should never hang below the chassis.
Suspension. Although not necessary, it is beneficial to polish all the metal suspension balls and front kingpins. This is easily accomplished by chucking up a 4-40 tie rod into your Dremel or hand drill and thread the balls on. Then using a quality metal polish, spin them in a clean rag. The kingpins can be chucked up by themselves doing each end individually. Note: The Front Suspensions Arms are right and left pieces. When mounted flat on your Rev.3 chassis with the front end pointing away from you. The upper arms’ kingpin bulges should face forward.
VCS Shock. Assemble the VCS shock according to the included instructions. We recommended 80 wt. Shock fluid with the heavy silver spring to start. Generally, the stiffer the center spring the more steering your Rev.3 will have.
Ride Height. Should be level or slightly nose high.
Caster. You should start with a 2-degree caster shim under each suspension arm. More caster will give the car less “cut”, but more steering exiting the corner. Less caster will do the opposite.
Toe. Toe in will make the car easy to drive and slightly less responsive. Toe out will give the car more “cut” going into the corner but less strait line stability.
Side Links. Thread the four rod ends onto the two adjustable turnbuckles, leaving just under 1 inch of the turnbuckle showing between the plastic rod ends. Now, starting with either side snap on one of the side links. Note: It’s a good idea to have the turnbuckle aligned so that tighter/shorter is in towards the chassis and looser/longer is away from the chassis. Next, you can thread in the two 2/56 screws into the side link you have installed. Note: These screws are only to prevent the links from popping off. They are NOT to be tightened around the balls snugly; this will cause serious binding in the rear suspension. There should be a large gap between the ends of the adjustable rod ends when properly set. After you have one side link installed, lay your chassis on a flat table with a piece of white notebook paper underneath it. Now by adjusting your turnbuckle make the gap between the chassis and the lower pod plate equal on both sides of the center pivot socket. Once you have the link properly adjusted you can snap on the other side link. Once again, you can thread in the 2-56 adjuster screws so the link won’t pop off while adjusting it. To adjust the 2nd link take the chassis in your left hand and with your right hand wiggle the lower pod plate side to side. It will probably “click” or have a “bound up” feel when doing this. Slowly adjust the 2nd link in either direction. Note: Adjustments to the turnbuckle should be no more than 1/16 of a full turn at a time. After giving the turnbuckle a small adjustment feel the side to side movement again. Did it get better or worse? If it got better go in the same direction again, if it got worse go in the opposite direction. Repeat these steps until the side to side and the fore & aft movements are free. If a link is too long the side to side movement will “click”, if too short it will feel “bound up”. Note: Never re-adjust the 1st link when trying to free up the rear end. The 1st link is always correct if you initially adjusted it properly.
Damper Tubes. You must trim your twin damper tubes to fit you Rev.3 chassis. To do this pull the male/female damper pieces apart. Now with a very sharp hobby knife trim each end as follows. The female should be trimmed to 2 1/8 inches end to end. The male side should be trimmed to 2 inches. Make sure to remove any burs. Losi soft, medium, and hard Hydra Drive fluids all work well in the damper tubes.
Servo Mounting. The servo should be mounted so that the front of the servo case is equal with the rear of the suspension arm mount. The off-set of the servo should be to the passenger side of the chassis. Use a small Kimbrough servo saver. Mount the tie-rod ends to the front of the servo saver in the upper most holes. This will give the best Ackerman angle for your Rev.3.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is our most recent set-up.
Front End:
Tires-Start with Purple, if you feel the car is pushing, go to TRC Magentas or JACO 35's if you can get them. For club racing purples usually do the trick, but sometimes the softer fronts are a must with how fast batts and motors are today. Start at 1.78"
Springs-We usually run .20's. If the track has a lot of 180's you might drop down to .18's. Generally run as soft as you can without the car "over rotating" leaving a turn. If the track has lots of high speed sweepers we'll go up to .22's. I don't think we've ever used .16 or .24's.
Polish your front kingpins. They get grungy suprisingly quick. Keep an eye on them. A sticky front kingpin will make a car handle like crap. When you only have 3/16 inch of travel, it better be smooth.
2 degrees toe-out. This usually gives the car a nice balance, with enough "cut" into the corner. If the car "cuts" too much, go to zero toe.
Make sure you mount your tie-rods to the upper and outer holes on your Kimbrough servo saver. This is very important for the correct Ackerman angles. Also make sure your servo is centered and mounted right up to the back of the passenger side suspension arm.
Depending on which rims you use, you might have to shave some plastic off of your outer ball cups so they don't bind under max. steering throw.
We almost always stick with 2 degrees of caster.= 1 shim.
Back:
Generally we run that Batt. in the "back" position, but this really depends on the track and what you personally like. When the battery is in the back of the car, it gives you more traction, and is usually easier to drive. With the battery moved forward, the car rotates 180's better and has a little more "cut" but less overall steering. This is a little confusing, because most people think that more weight up front equals more steering. In reality, when the battery is in the back position, it allows for more weight transfer which actually gives the car more overall steering. You just have to wait that split second for the weight to transfer to get the additional steering. Hence, why batteries up front give you more cut but less total steering.
Side springs.-Orange or Blue most of the time, and then white if you need a little more cut, or if the car feels lazy going through cut-backs. Never over-preload the side springs. Crank them down just enough to tweak the car. Besides bound up links, this is the largest mistake I see done to Rev.3's. It's very important that the springs "work", which allows the chassis' weight to transfer which gives you steering and traction.
Shock-We usually run Asc. 80wt. shock fluid with our Black spring. If you need more traction, or your track is really bumpy we'll go down as far as 30 wt. and the Asc. blue spring. Generally, if you drop your shock fluid you should drop your spring also.
Damper Tubes-We use Losi light, medium, and heavy fluids. With how fast today's cars are, we usually run light. It lets the car "return" to center quicker. If the track is really large with high speed sweepers we might go to medium or heavy. Your damper tubes should be adjusted in conjunction with your side springs. Put "together" you have a shock, so much like your center shock, when you go heavier on the sides, you can increase you tubes damping.
Tires-Jaco or Trc Grey rears. Start at 1.90
Droop-Your shock length controls how much droop you have(i.e..-how far past horizontal your rear pod hangs in relation to your chassis). Generally we run about 2 or 3 degrees. Again, if your track is really bumpy, you can back the ball cups off your shock to lengthen it and give your car a little more droop. Never go more than 5 degrees(the car will unload too much going into tight turns).
Stock gearing-With today's motors(stock) and batteries we generally run 27-30/100 or 28-31/104. If your track is really tight you would want to be down around 27. Don't gear for run time, gear for lap times. Most of the time we run a smaller pinion than we think we should. It just gets the infield done that much quicker.
Links-MAKE SURE THEY ARE FREE AND STRAIGHT!!!!! This is by far the most important part of your Rev.3. If your links aren't perfect the rest of your preparation is useless. The instruction pamphlet has a good description on how to adjust them correctly. During a race day, check your links after any big accident or if the car just feels inconsistent. To check them during a race day. 1)remove batteries, 2)remove top plate(over motor), 3)take out motor, 4)remove tweak plate(unscrew the two pan heads that go through the main chassis. Now you can feel them for binding/smoothness. It's very important that the motor is removed. Because of it's weight it doesn't let you "feel" the movement of the rear assembly. If they feel bound, remove one front screw for one link side, adjust the opposite link so the graphite "gap" is even, reinstall the screw you removed, and adjust that link until the links are free again.
Note: It is necessary to remove the motor top plate to put the motor in and out of your Rev.3. Our chassis has the motor over 20 thousandths compared to an ASC 12L. Today's motors are much heavier than when the 12L was designed. When drawing the Rev.3 I weighed and measured the newer style motors and centered them within our rear pod. Some people force the motor through the bottom of the car. I think it's pretty easy just to remove the 3 button heads and not force anything.
We use Paragon tire traction and we dope 3/4 front and full rear. Usually we put it on for about 15 minutes, and try to be wiping it off just as you are getting ready to run.
11-07-2003, 06:13 PM
#4752
ok...got one last question (hopefully)
its time to get a new speedo for the cleveland race...what should I get? been running a gt-7 and its too big to find room for a receiver pack running a low profile body (trust me...its too big lol!!!
) I was looking at the GM sx-9...masami won the worlds with it...cant be too bad...but I guess he can drive anything and win. Also looking at the new quantum comp. or the ko speedo Chris Doseck used in his spashette trinity car. Lemme know what you think I should go for.
its time to get a new speedo for the cleveland race...what should I get? been running a gt-7 and its too big to find room for a receiver pack running a low profile body (trust me...its too big lol!!!
) I was looking at the GM sx-9...masami won the worlds with it...cant be too bad...but I guess he can drive anything and win. Also looking at the new quantum comp. or the ko speedo Chris Doseck used in his spashette trinity car. Lemme know what you think I should go for.
11-07-2003, 07:09 PM
#4753
Hey tres what up! Carbondale dec 14th maybe, then you can pay me back.
I run both the bloody six pack in mod and the bloody butterknife in stock. You won't get me in a speed merchent crc associated fight but I will say this, the rev3 or the ck are not mod cars. they do not snap back as fast as a tplate car coming out of the corner and as was said here the springs give out just as much as the tplate but I'll tell you this if I hit the wall with a 8x1 d5 in my tplate car I bet it doesn't ever break the chassis or have that stupid o-ring come off. The roll center may be closer to center but if the car can't center back it don't matter. The forces put to a 12th scale in mod are more then "most" drivers can handle with a rev3 or ck. it takes a real good driver to drive a link car in mod. But with that note most newbies to 12th scale run stock so a link car will let them drive better as long as they don't break the back of the car inhalf or bend the retainer posts over on the edge of the chassis. Since running stock you don't normally have the speed to kill a car that's fine. In the case of mod or mod outdoor you can kill shred and kiss a rev3 or ck good bye very easy and then lose a new racer to the "I can't afford to fix it" excuse. I know this since I bought a ck from a newbie to 12th pavement with a trashed chassis for $50 with a micro servo and a bunch of parts. With a tplate car you can bang down the walls and have less likely a chance of breaking the car and if you do it's only a $4 tplate instead of a $40 chassis. As for tweak most newbies do it with an xcto on the table like all of us did at one time. Ah the good ole days. I will tell anyone starting out that running mod with a link car isn't as easy as a tplate car. But if you’re going to stick to stock run the link.
I run both the bloody six pack in mod and the bloody butterknife in stock. You won't get me in a speed merchent crc associated fight but I will say this, the rev3 or the ck are not mod cars. they do not snap back as fast as a tplate car coming out of the corner and as was said here the springs give out just as much as the tplate but I'll tell you this if I hit the wall with a 8x1 d5 in my tplate car I bet it doesn't ever break the chassis or have that stupid o-ring come off. The roll center may be closer to center but if the car can't center back it don't matter. The forces put to a 12th scale in mod are more then "most" drivers can handle with a rev3 or ck. it takes a real good driver to drive a link car in mod. But with that note most newbies to 12th scale run stock so a link car will let them drive better as long as they don't break the back of the car inhalf or bend the retainer posts over on the edge of the chassis. Since running stock you don't normally have the speed to kill a car that's fine. In the case of mod or mod outdoor you can kill shred and kiss a rev3 or ck good bye very easy and then lose a new racer to the "I can't afford to fix it" excuse. I know this since I bought a ck from a newbie to 12th pavement with a trashed chassis for $50 with a micro servo and a bunch of parts. With a tplate car you can bang down the walls and have less likely a chance of breaking the car and if you do it's only a $4 tplate instead of a $40 chassis. As for tweak most newbies do it with an xcto on the table like all of us did at one time. Ah the good ole days. I will tell anyone starting out that running mod with a link car isn't as easy as a tplate car. But if you’re going to stick to stock run the link.
11-07-2003, 08:13 PM
#4754
To get rid of traction rolling basically take away steering. What alot of guys do at big races is they will superglue the sidewalls of the tire to keep the side wall from delfating and causing a traction roll, q-balling is pretty much the same deal (since you are talking away the sidewall, lol) and probalby some of the contact patch.
Speedo... I personally have always been very happy with my quantom compeitions. I really want to find one of the new ones before Cleveland so I can test it out and run it (so if anyone knows where I can get one at my frontdoor within a week send me a PM! lol). However, the old quantom comp should work as good as anything out there.
Speedo... I personally have always been very happy with my quantom compeitions. I really want to find one of the new ones before Cleveland so I can test it out and run it (so if anyone knows where I can get one at my frontdoor within a week send me a PM! lol). However, the old quantom comp should work as good as anything out there.