A little puffing isn't a problem. If the pack still works well keep using it...

cool thanks.

Donīt get me wrong, i like the X12, BUT the front does not deliver the smoothnes and reliabilety i want.
I tried the Ass mod, but not satisfied. My plan is to try the worlds champ style "CRC" instead. Has anyone tested to mount the ball (Mugen) style parts from CRC on a X12?
Allso is there a way to make a groove in lover arm with a tightening screw to adjust freeplay for the lower ball?

New to 12th scale and wanted to know what is the trick on cutting the rear Fender Well out. Your help is much appreciated.

You can find this,
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...cale-body.html

and many other 12th scale tips in my sig

Thank You!

I have been running two Orion 1S 7200 packs all year without any puffing. I just make sure to properly discharge my packs between race weekends.

I have a cheap and highly accurate way of cutting them. I use an OLFA circle cutter set to the exact same size as my wheels (measure and use trial error rather than assuming its exactly 38 mm). Cut two circles out of any kind of scrap vinyl and stick them on your wheels mounted on the car (line them up carefully to be concentric with the wheel by matching the edges) Place your mounted body on the car and make sure the body is supported by the body mounts and not touching the ground. With your car at race ride height, mark the body with a fine sharpie where the metal stationary tip on the circle cutter made a pin hole. Then use your circle cutter set to whatever size you want to cut your wheel wells. I prefer to actually just score the lexan and then bend it to break it and then tear it along the broken score. This takes a little practice though as the lexan will tear where you don't want if not done carefully. The trick is breaking your score line before trying to tear it.

Has anyone ordered or used any of these 70t 64p 16 1/8" ball spurs from Xenon yet? Any info would be great.

http://xenon.ocnk.net/product/479

Cristian has them and I use them on my 12th. Seem to be decent. I have been using the same one almost a year now and I race 2x a week.

Just a little heads up with Xenon steering blocks.

The steering block height is slightly different. I might be nick picking, but the difference is 0.10 mm. To me, they should be perfect left and right.

The actual dimensions of the blocks when measured were - Left 9.93 mm Right 10.03.

I measured all my new blocks and they came out to the same numbers. A little sanding on the right block and now they are the same.

I'm not knocking on Xenon products just informing you about the little issue. I actually just bought another set for their durability and quality.

Why is this important? When it comes to up travel the right will have left up travel then the left. The axle height will also be different left and right.

That spur gear must be for the 'Merican market.

I can't seem to find nor seen such a gear in Japan. However, there are 58 tooth spur gears available, but I think it's... geared towards 21.5 touring classes because there are only a few holes drilled into the center.

These have been out for a year? I was under the impression they were newer than that. I have some of the 76t Xenons that I've seen at RSD before. You're talking specifically about the 16 ball version that is 70t without the inner row of holes?

thanks for the heads up. These are the things that can cause headaches! I remember the TC3 sedan steering knuckles were similar.

Easy to find these gears from Xenon
70t is the smallest there is for 1/12 scale
Useful for 21.5 1s classes

Every time I see Teru, he says $50 order, Free shipping