Good ideas fellas. Ill have to make a list and try them one by one when I get back to the track to source the problem. Thanks David for the call. Hopefully it won't be long before I get this sorted out.

Where can I find the tuning cheat sheet? :D

EDIT: Found it!

With the side damper attached, it will be difficult to get the tweak set because it will almost be like having a stuck link or pivot. Pull the side damper and try again on the tweak station.:cool:

You will need to move your PT to the left and your switch and wires also to get the car to balance with no weight. If it still isnt right, just go with some weight. A heavy car will run better than one thats out of balance.;) Keep us posted buddy.:cool:

Andrew, after reading whats going on with your car, I might have another suggestion for you. Check to make sure the dampning shock (the shock that lays on its side) is adjusted properly. I started assembling my R5 last night, and noticed that after I installed my dampning shock, that it needed to be adjusted for EQUAL side to side movement. The directions show the shock eyelet (part # 4662) and the shock rod end (part # 4665) being screwed all the way together. When I assembled it to the chassis, I noticed that the side to side movement was unequal. This is a simple fix, as all you have to do is adjust the shock rod end about a millimeter and a half (+ or -) so that the pod will have side to side movement.

Also, check to make sure that the lower front arms (part # 4620) are in the correct position. If you are looking at the instruction book, page 6 at the bottom, bag D step 1, lower suspension arm orientation, the arms are swept back. At first, I noticed that the arms had flat spots in the mounting holes to attach them to the front bulkheads, so I lined them both up with the flat spots down. But when I sat them side by side as if they were on the car, I noticed the arms are molded to have a swept back appearance at the pivot ball. I noticed this because one was swept back, the other was pointing forward. Also, check to make sure the kingpin is riding freely in the pivot balls.

I hope I haven't bored you to death, and this info is helpfull. If you have any questions, please feel free to pm me. :D:tire::cool:

double post

building a 12r5, need opinions on best steering servo. Price is not an issue.

I'm not familiar with the 12R5 (yet...got one coming to play around with) so I don't know if it has a mount that limits servo choices or not. For example the CRC's are pretty much set up for the JR 3550/3650 (or they used to be), the DB12R is set up for the Futaba 9602/9650 or the KO PDS949, etc. The challenge is the different servos often have the output shaft in different positions relative to the sides of the servo.

I heartily recommend digital servos in this day and age. Especially if you're not suffering from budget limitations. The positive centering makes them worth their weight in gold for 1/12.

My own limited experience? I feel like the PDS949 is the most responsive and best feeling servo I've used. Unfortunately it's also the most expensive. It also seems (again, to me) to be the strongest/most accurately centering servo I've used. It is digital.

The Futaba 9650 is probably the best value in 1/12 steering servos. I believe it also specs out a touch faster than the PDS949 though I find myself dialing a bit of speed out of both. Works very well, I'm running them in both my DB12R's. Were available for $50 new for a while, I think they may be $60 now. It is also digital.

The JR Z3650 I've used the least though it seems to be a worthy (digital) successor to the former "gold standard of 1/12" the Z3550. Reasonably tough, reasonably fast, reasonably priced. Replacement parts (gear sets and cases) are probably the easiest of all to come by and half the price of either the KO or Futaba. If you're a gram counter I also believe the Z3650 is the lightest of the digital servos.

hth,

Scottrik

Oh--if anybody knows if/what servos the 12R5 is limited to please let me know. SS

The KO 949 has been superceded by the KO 951. Same size, same speed and weight, but up from 38oz of torque to 108 :cool:

Oh yeah...

MY 949 has 208oz-in when I plug those extra two AAA cells in series to my receiver power!! 'Course running an 8 minute race is like a LONG Top Fuel event...sometimes you make it, sometimes you're streaming expensive smoke.

I may have a small caliper, but I've got enough servo torque to steer my car without linkage attached. Just apply a little Isaac Newton...

happy T-day Perfesser! The reason for the upgrade is that in modified class at big races where the bite is very high the cars were generating so much side load that they were overpowering the servos. Not a consideration for 99% of us, but thats why the change. I use the 951 now not because I need to but because it makes me look cool :nod::lol:

Holy crap! Can you imagine??!! I can barely keep a mod car on the track...servo power is the LEAST of my problems in that endeavor. That said, they're running Mod 1/12 at the big race in Minot in a couple weeks and I'm giving serious thought to having a go. I'd be better off to re-brush one of my 27T stockers and run that, but what the hey--I'll dig my old smooth can Novak 6.5 out and try to keep 'er between the boards.

Happy T-day to you as well!

Scottrik

Bring parts :lol::sneaky::deathstar:ha:

Thank you, Very informative answer.

Can anyone tell me what size the flanged bearings are for the front wheels of a rc12l.
Also, what is a good 4600mah NiMH cell, and where is a good place to find them matched?

Thanks

1/8 x 5/16

EnerG cells are good. ProMatch or SMC match them.