Spam :lol:

Try this place they have some nice small reasonably priced bags.

http://www.powercellbattery.com/

Has anyone tried the crc gears with 16 balls?

http://c0456141.cdn.cloudfiles.racks...n/cln64196.jpg

Do regular rings and regular diffs work with it?

Thanks

I believe everything is the same. The size of the balls 3/32 vs. 1/8 is how they get 16 balls. You will need to make up the spacing of the smaller ball with shims depending on what type of cone you use to set your diff.
E

I just got this gear installed in my xl.
Could not get the diff set right because the axle sticks out past the
diff cone (or spacer) not allowing the cone washer to put proper tension on the diff.
Should I shim after the outer bearing in between the crc outer spacer (the red spacer) or somewhere else?

So not much adjusting necessary but how did it feel in relation to the 12 ball

Do they come with balls?

Thanks

They work great! But as Eric said you will need to space out the diff side of the axle a bit to compensate for the smaller diff balls. Also the gear only uses a non-flanged bearing so if you are currently running an IRS rear axle you will probably need a new bearing.

Got TOP diff and looks like I got about a 1/16 space so it might work without a cone spacer barely since the ball difference is only 1/32. TOP has non-flanged bearing

Thanks

I like it, it seems to be smoother than normal, and no they dont come with balls.

Im new to the link cars... Last time I ran 12th was with brushed/Tbar setups.

Ive read the Mark Payne blog, and I am still a little confused. I was hoping someone could walk me thru the order of steps they use for setting up and tweaking their cars.

One of the areas I am confused about is balancing the chassis. With my sedans/TCs, I balance the car out on the pins by adding weight to whichever side needs it. Pretty simple.

According to Mark Payne's blog, he would balance the rear pod with the brushed motors(or they would be balanced themself)... but with brushless motors, the rear pod is off balance. Is this still the case today? The article from the blog is years old and, I assume, referencing brushless motors in pods that were designed for brushed motors.

Say I have assembled my car and installed the electronics, measured the front end components(arms, springs, etc) so that the left and right sides are accurate, have a fresh set of equal trued tires on the car, etc... What is the order of steps for setup and tweak?

Based on past experience, my guess would be the following (assuming that the side springs are set even left to right):

1) Set rear pod droop (can this be measured with sedan style droop blocks/gauges?)
2) Get front, rear, middle ride height set to where you want it
3) Put car on balance pins (are you guys balancing your car as a whole? or the pod individually?) and add weight where necessary
4) Recheck ride height
5) Set front camber and toe (we are assuming that these values weren't drastically off prior to setting the ride height)
6) Put car on tweak board (we are only tweaking the front end, right? and this is done by adjusting the side spring preload?)


Thoughts?

I use 2 scales, bar and level surface.
When I'm happy with the droop, camber, chassis height and level, etc..
I then set up my weight station.
I set my front tires on the scales, rear on a equal height bar and weight the front end to see the difference. At this point make sure the dampening tubes are off and side springs are backed off. If there is a difference in weight on the front tires move your electronics around.
I never use the side springs to tweek the car.
I typically run the side springs off the lower rear pod. I can set that by using the scales once the "tweek" is set by moving the electronics around.
I'll bring the springs down till the scales change a gram or 2 then set the other spring the same way. At that point they are just touching. I then back them off equally 1/2 turn.

Hope this helps,
Wayne

There used to be a company called PTI, they made pan cars 1/10 and 1/12. I recall they had a tweak station which was essentially four eletronic/digital scales with a setup board connecting all the scales. It was more accurate but not as popular as MIP tweakboard. Pan car setup time is pretty short, there is a routine that I used before every run/race. As long as you stay clean throughout the race with small hit/contact with board or other cars, the tweak should not be messed up throughout the race. But it is necessary to check it each time before the run.

Isn't it funny how no matter how fast you go in 1/12 scale, dirt slingers never have anything good to say about it. They think we just pin the throttle and twiddle the wheel. :rolleyes:

Ok where is the "LOVE" button

Definitely have heard that.