R/C Tech Forums - 1/12 forum

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)

- Electric On-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road-2/)

- - 1/12 forum (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/37-1-12-forum.html)

Trouble with 120LT build, page14, M3X5 Screw does not appear to reach is this part of the instructions correct? I have tried for a long time and still cant get it to reach, perhaps someone here has a tip on this section cause it just will NOT reach.

Never mind, sorry about the dumb question i figured it out, LOL!

I forgot what wattage soldering iron works for speedo, battery and motor soldering

40 Watt

or

25 Watt

Also concerned about the tip size?

Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by Infinite 12th (Post 10020096)

@RBF

Raced my second race with my Rebel12 and did a little better this last race but car seemed to be skaty in the rear end at low speeds.

I was using Jaco magenta ft and pink rear. Pretty small. The first time I raced it I was unaware that the track width had to be adjusted in ft and rear for Jaco's. So I had basically the same set up as first time but fixed track width for jaco's and the car became sorta drivable but had that rear traction problem. Impossible to drive at low speed. Now I'm gonna just use CRC and have track width ft and rear appropriately set.

I'm asking you cause you said you had good experience with the synthetic yellow tires in rear. They have some grey rears at Norcal which I think are just slightly harder than yellow and they have white rear also. I was given like 7 sets of magenta ft CRC so I will just stick with those since they have pretty good steering for probably indoor and out

My question is what might I experience if using the grey/white in the rear. One of the guys in mod here runs totally chunked grey rears and has massive rear bite and lots of steering with magenta ft. I will order some yellow rears to test later but what is your opinion on the grey/white

In general my setup has .020 ft and soft rear springs and medium top with 15000 rear damp side and reactive castor at 5

Just looking for some "drive-able" rear bite and might even run the rear at like 45-46mm to start

When I raced carpet in AZ the whole magenta ft and pink rear was stuck but pink rear is not working for me here so I'm like what's up dude. I also tried grey/white rear in AZ and totally did not work for me like the pink rear and magenta ft so I'm learning about different carpet conditions not to mention the lipo/link cars addition to the sport in relationship to the tires

Thanks David

Kel

It,s funny how some guys just show up with an oddball tire or set up and just hook up. Meanwhile I mess with all these combos and seems like I am back at square one more times than I can count!:weird:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya (Post 10020940)

Honestly Josh you are looking better and better every run dude

And your running like 3 classes so your probably doing better than you think

Plus your learning as you go

I will be testing some new CRC tires tomorrow

Hope I can use your tire truer tomorrow if your bringing it :tire:

See you then

Quote:

Originally Posted by Infinite 12th (Post 10020904)

I forgot what wattage soldering iron works for speedo, battery and motor soldering

40 Watt

or

25 Watt

Also concerned about the tip size?

Thanks

Some guys at the track look at me funny for my soldering iron, but I get a lot of requests to borrow it, or to do solder work for them.

I use a cheapish Weller 80W :deathstar, an add-on iron stand, with silver solder [pay attention to silver content, higher is better, linked is 2%, Novak is 3%, and I usually find 4% in my local Radio Shack] and use this stuff to cool the tip off when I'm done to keep the tip fresh, it's 3 years old now and still has a shiny tip. :)

Love that iron. Still probably have that setup somewhere. Was especially awesome with the big tip for soldering packs back in the days of cells.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serpent Lover (Post 10020493)

Hey are you running up in new rochelle with your 12th scale?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Infinite 12th (Post 10020904)

I forgot what wattage soldering iron works for speedo, battery and motor soldering

40 Watt

or

25 Watt

Also concerned about the tip size?

Thanks

Buy yourself a professional Iron, Hakko 936 or something similar. I have that high heat Weller Iron, and it was good for doing battery bars because it heats up over 900 degrees, but it's a very clumsy iron.

Get something like this...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXATBK&P=ML

Adjustable, durable, and easy to use. Most come with two tips, one for general soldering and one for smaller stuff. You can dial the heat up for applications like taking the leads off a LRP speedo; or dial it down for doing lower temp stuff like a circuit board.

60/40 solder is best for almost everything;
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...4oz-MNT1064004

I disagree with the silver solder. You don't need it for most things, it requires more heat, and will wear your tip faster. For most motor, and small wire soldering the 60/40 is the best to use. Silver solder really is only needed sometimes with battery leads, and usually only in modified. Not a bad idea to have it on hand, but a small roll should last you years.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Infinite 12th (Post 10020904)

I forgot what wattage soldering iron works for speedo, battery and motor soldering

40 Watt

or

25 Watt

Also concerned about the tip size?

Thanks

Might be more than you are willing to spend but Hakko IMO is the best in the business. I invested in one about 5+ years ago and it is still going strong. The temp is adjustable, a light lets you know when it's at the target temp and they offer tips of every size you could want.

The new model is the FX-888 which replaced the 936.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JrodKyo (Post 10021430)

Hey are you running up in new rochelle with your 12th scale?

Yes but not until next week, waiting on a new radio and i am new to 12 scale.

Thanks guys I just wanted to know what will just solder battery plugs, motor and speedo meaning will a 25 Watt get hot enough or should I get the 40 Watt

I don't want to spend bucks I don't have to since I'll only use it once in a while

And also what diff lube is everyone using lately

We use to just get the associated diff lube in the little container with black lettering

http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn....jpg?1323508067

The Weller SP40 is all the iron you will need and under $20 last I checked.

AE lube is still the best.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoelV (Post 10021413)

Love that iron. Still probably have that setup somewhere. Was especially awesome with the big tip for soldering packs back in the days of cells.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wes Briscoe (Post 10021589)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Infinite 12th (Post 10022422)

Quote:

Originally Posted by wingracer (Post 10022445)

The Weller SP40 is all the iron you will need and under $20 last I checked.

AE lube is still the best.

Sorry guys, I wasn't saying he needed my setup, just passing along what I use. Every time I get ready to pull the trigger on a nice adjustable solder station like I have at work, I find something else to spend that much money on. :lol:

For 12ga and under, 40W should be plenty, you get less component heat with 60W with larger wire. My 80W isn't used for fine work, I have an off-brand cheap 25W iron for that, but the original question was about battery, motor and ESC connections.

For silver solder, most will find it unnecessary, but I do a lot of electrical work outside of RC also, so I always need it, and it saves against potentially disastrous mix-ups if I don't have multiple grades of solder around.

Regardless of what you're using, the Radio Shack Tip Cleaner/Tinner that I linked is AWESOME for keeping your tip shiny, long lasting and flowing great. It's non-abrasive, and is a lot cleaner to use to leave a protective layer on the tip when storing than solder itself, and leaves a larger, more even layer to prevent tip oxidation. Seriously, for anyone that hasn't tried it, spend the $10 and get it, you'll thank me later, just like I thanked the buddy that introduced me to it. :nod:

Thanks for the advice for the 1/12 guys, what I eventually went to on my Gen-XL was 30,000wt in the side dampeners, blue side springs with almost no preload, 50wt in the center shock with a CRC "white" center spring, 0.018" front springs preloaded about a half millimeter, and some 30k fluid on the front kingpin, and that heavily damped but softly sprung combination (sharing nothing with the nearly box-stock setup I had been running) went almost three tenths a lap faster than I had ever gone. The pulsing steering is gone, the car carries energy well, and I think its going to be a good ending.