I remember someone posting a link to a site for front end caster block spacers for the old associated front end. You know, so I can run a longer length top arm. Anyone have this link or know where I can find some. Thanks!

Jake's Performance Hobbies has them.

http://www.swiftracingproducts.com/S...95&InfoID=5068

That's it!! Thanks!!

You can cut/sand down a caster block also. Thats what I have done.

I did the same thing. Works great.

anyone got a pic of this mod? thanks

Since '98 I've always used cut caster blocks as spacers for this mod. It just made the car feel better and is good for a tenth or two. Using cut caster blocks is my last resort. I only want to space it out a little so the shims should do the job.

those aluminum spacers look alot like the ones that come with some of the dubro ball ends. you might be able to find some at a well stocked airplane shop like hobby hangar. I've got a couple in my box, but just not 4 that match. CRC must sell them too since I've got 3 red ones.

I could be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure General Silicons sold cone washers like that in several different colors.

Is this an oval-only mod or does this help in the twisties also? I think I read something about a decrease in camber gain, what else does this do? Thanks!

AND... :)

Does anyone know the length of the 8/32 screws used to secure crc front(or old ae dynamic strut) end to main chassis plate?

Cant find the length on crc site.

Thanks

Jamie

Hig guys I want to get myself a 1/12th chassis. I can get a associated RC12L4 at a decent price...

Is it worth buying this? Will it perform up-to-par with the new RC12R5 or similar 1/12th chassis? I'll be running it in 1/12t Mods :sneaky:

Please help

It can be useful for road racers as well as oval. Oval guys tend to do it only on the left front arm... road guys obviously would do both sides. If the car feels too aggressive on the steering it's one way to calm the front end down.

As far as diffs go, I like the CRC lightened rings and ceramic or carbide balls. I don't have too many tricks, but I do like this one... if your diff is from Associated or CRC, it will have a belleville cone washer included... if your diff is from anyone else it won't. What I like to do is either add two more cone washeres to an Associated or CRC diff, or add three to a diff with no cone washer. I arrange them so the first cone washer goes in with the big side against the spacer (cone pointinig out) then the second cone pointing in, then the third cone pointing out again.

Like this: spacer )() nut

This arrangement of cone washers gives a softer springiness than one by itself, and gives you a little more latitude on the diff nut adjustment.l With one or no cone washers, I find there's a VERY narrow "sweet spot" between too loose and too tight.

Another way I've gotten that wider adjustment sweet spot was to put two thrust races (the outer washers of a thrust bearing assembly) on, but with an o-ring between them instead of balls. The o-ring acted like a spring and really gave a broad adjustment range. Also seemed that this method kept the outer bearing in the right side hub healthy a LOT longer.

:rolleyes:

Ricky/C, the car will be fine running mod. If you plan on running LiPo later , the car might be alittle more fificult to setup for LiPo unlike the 12r5. Both are good cars. And as far as the 12l4, I am still running it. You can get other manufacturers chassis to replace the 12l4's that will work in its place inase you damage it. If that is also all your budget will allow then it is fine to start off with. Happy racing:nod: