You will need some lowered rear pods, other then that its just as good as most other things out there.

+1

What's old is new...get ready:sneaky:

http://www.hobzob.com/files/755/albu...d882f8/008.jpg

That's my car haha! What have you heard mate? Oh, and just to let you know, that I have drawn up a new chassis design that uses some of the features from the SP12V, but with a 'twist'. Drawings will get sent off to Fibre Lyte this week. Should be good once all completed!

Isnt the BMI chassis the evolved SP12V already?

In a way yes. There are certain similarities in concept. Also some big differences.

There's loads of diferances between the Corally and BMI cars. The side 'links' do not help to pivot the rear end on the 12V. They are solely used in place of a t-bar, controlling forward to aft movement of the motor pod. The motor pod itself runs on a seperate pivot that provides the left to right movement, independantly of the forward to aft. There are holes down the side of the links that are used to either stiffen or soften the forward to aft movement whilst differant thickness damper syrup controls the left to right. I remember the 12V coming out many years ago, and tried to work out how the rear end worked, believe me, it's much easier to understand once you have one in your hands! Although I don't have a BMI 12th car, I do have the GT10 which sorks the same way. It's a great car that works really well. I'll try to take some pics of the rear end of the 12V and you'll see how it works, very neat!! Cheers, Chris.

PS, I have just looked through the pics on rc50.com from Vegas, and there is a Corally chassis on there which is EXACTLY like the one I am getting made up at the mo, GUTTED!!

Keep watching IIC to see how they do.

....

I dont doubt the 12V is differnet, but from your explantion above... I dont quite agree. You are saying that the 12V front and back pivot motion is controlled only by the side plates? Wouldnt the center shock and central pivot be handling that? On the BMI the front and back is only handled by the central pivot and the center shock. the side plates handle essentially the lateral alignment of the rear plate and side to side rotation. Which from looking at diagrams of the 12V rear end, look strikingly similar.


Edit: Just realized that the 12V doesnt run a central shock... hmm so yeh I guess I dont know how the 12V works... voodoo maybe? :D


Just looked through those pics on RC50. I didnt see what I was looking for (the Serpent LiPo chassis), but saw some pics of an old 12V there. Lots of R5's a few BMI's it looks like, and a handful of Corallys. Nothing real amazing except that Slapmaster embedded T Bar. I will be very curious how that car runs. That and the one off car with the link steering and custom rear end.

Hi mate, so much easier if you had a 12V in your hand! Hard to explain. There is no centre shock on the 12V, the damper takes care of that. The side links do not act like the ones on the BMI car. They hold the rear end straight and act like the t-bar would, if there was a t-bar on the car. The links bolt onto the V plate of the rear end and there is a seperate pivot assembly that is bolted to the v plate that the motor pod bolts onto (I hope that makes sense!!). The whole of the motor pod assembly rocks back and forth on the side 'links', they do not in any way let the pod move left and right. There is no need for the centre pivot, like on the BMI car, as the motor pod pivots on its own pivot.

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...r_2009/014.jpg

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...r_2009/015.jpg

Here is the 'new' Corally chassis that I found on RC50.

http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...9/PICT9868.jpg

I don't know if that is an official Corally chassis, or someone has made one up. As I mentioned before, that is pretty much EXEACTLY the same as the one I was making!

I also noticed the springs on the IRS damper tubes, you would have to use these to set the tweak as the original 12V rear end was free floating, no tweaking needed!

setup
 

can someone please help me with something...

What is everyone using to accurately measure camber and toe? i have an RC12R5. can you use a setup station like the 1/10 tourers on the front or something else? i've seen camber gauges but what about toe?

any help would be great :)

The Niftech alignment gauge is PERFECT for 1/12. A bit "fiddly" the first couple times you use it, but becomes second nature in a hurry. I use it for toe only and use an RPM camber gauge for camber (faster for me).

Best $25 I've ever spent.

I use a RPM camber gauge and my eyeballs. Not extremely accurate but, it works for me.

I had the Niftech setup but, it just seemed like a lot of fiddling to get the same thing.

Same here. For toe the side to side precision is not THAT important, so what I usually do is measure the steering links to be the same lenght , then finetune the angle I want "on eye" and the last thing is to make sure that it's ok by trimming the car through the transmitter, it's not good to make major adjustments with the transmitter trim though, then you have to start again. If I need to record my toe for a setup-sheet or whatever then I just take a caliper and measure front to rear difference and that's what I put in my setup sheet in milimeters.