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Originally Posted by DOTMAN
:blush: I'm not sure what 32 finish translates too but will 400 grit sandpaper work?
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no problem.you want to make sure that when tight,you can sping the diff freely and easily with 1 finger tip after you cut it in.to cut it in i set the diff med tight and hold 1 wheel and the spur and i slip the diff with the other wheel.i slip the diff 6 full revolutions and then then the balls rotate a little and then another 6 revs.i do this until the diff feels real smoothe but grips really good.you will feel them as they seat.the free rotation gets smoother and more free.i slightly tighten about 1/16 of a turn on the diff nut until it hurts my thumb to hold the spur.it should still free spin very easily when it is set.
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Originally Posted by jkas10
Jason, I want to clarify rthe shock spring preload. I understand you run the chassis and rear pod level by measuring eight locations to ensure this (four corners of the chassis and four corners of the rear pod) you use the ball cup to obtain this level of levelness ;)
Now, do you then keep the car perfectly level and add one turn of preload with the shock at this position, OR, do you extend the shock fully by pulling the rear pod back/down - or simply removing one end from the car... - and then add one turn of preload? I am guessing the latter. Do you have the spring on the shock, or the collar backed off, when setting ride height? Or, is it all in the shock oil/rebound to keep the center of the chassis and front of rear pod level? Because if the shock spring is on and has any tension created by the collar when setting ride height, won't your ride height measurments change when you fully extend the shock and turn in one round of preload? Can a guy just set the spring preload before you even begin messing with ride height? Fully extended is fully extended, right? Oh, wait; I answered my own question. If we have to turn the ball cup end on the shock shaft to adjust ride height, that will change our "fully extended" shock length. How did I do? :D Boy, this keyboard racing is fun.!!! :D It really bites to think through this stuff, spend the hours to attempt to properly prepare your vehicles, and then stink up the joint when you place the car on the track. Trust me - I am always faster on the way to the track then on the way home... :ha: Thanks for sharing your wisdom! Jeremy
Originally Posted by protc3
:lol: what i do is start by removing the shock all together and fully extending it untill the piston bottoms out on the cap.then i run the collar down until it just kisses the spring.then i go 1 full revolution on the collar for preload.now i put the shock back on the car.i will set my ride height by adjusting the length of the shock with the ball cups until my pod is level in all 4 corners of the rear pod and then use the ride height adjusters on the axle to set my ride height.if need be i will cut the ball cups a little shorter depending on how short i run the shock.now i will check the pod droop by lifting the center of the car by the top area where the top of the shock mounts.i will then slide a ride height gauge under the rear of the chassis right as the shock bottoms out.this measurement over ride height is your droop.the more uptravel you have the more weight transfers to the front under deceleration.in otherwords,more off power steering.after i do all those things,i fine tune with shock collar and length to maintain a level rear pod.you dont want to preload the spring too much due to the the fact that springs are progressive.
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dave and i are both in agreement on diff builds and shock builds.we always share new findings with eachother.he is a smart guy and very knowledgable. |
Originally Posted by JayBee
Will you guys PLEASE stop....my brain hurts :lol:
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you guys should try his lightened diff rings.for some reason they are the most flat rings right out of the package.i only had to grind .002 off of them to get them flat within .0002.made my life a whole lot easier. |
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Originally Posted by jkas10
OdP, Do you run level or a little sag?
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Originally Posted by protc3
you guys should try his lightened diff rings.for some reason they are the most flat rings right out of the package.i only had to grind .002 off of them to get them flat within .0002.made my life a whole lot easier.
less to sand. :) |
Originally Posted by P2
At his age....he runs a lot of sag, especially in the mid section :lol: :lol:
jkas10, I usually run the cars with no sag. But I find that a little bit will calm the car down if its twitchy (its a quick thing to do, and its probably better to use other adjustments like tires and springs) Sorry if the term created confusion, I guess you could call it "levelness" or "chassis parallelism". Ooh! I like that last one :nod: :lol: |
Originally Posted by odpurple
Hey! I resemble that remark! :lol: :lol:
jkas10, I usually run the cars with no sag. But I find that a little bit will calm the car down if its twitchy (its a quick thing to do, and its probably better to use other adjustments like tires and springs) Sorry if the term created confusion, I guess you could call it "levelness" or "chassis parallelism". Ooh! I like that last one :nod: |
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
on average they are all the same,but the lightened ones bend easer on impact,but i like the light ones better
less to sand. :) |
Originally Posted by JayBee
Hey James which 1/12th do you run?
-James |
Originally Posted by protc3
actually the standard rings are up to .007 out of flat.i have ground alot of rings and some are pretty bad.
i mostly use the light ones from crc. |
Originally Posted by JayBee
Hey James which 1/12th do you run?
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