Pretty much

i think i am going to go with the gunmetal on all the aluminum parts.i like the look of it and i see that alot of you seem to like it also.

i also want to let you guys know that the rear pods will be sold seperately for use on other cars that use damper tubes.they will be sold through BMI and also by IRS.thanks for your feedback:)

the black vette has been parked in the garage alot lately due to the rainy season rolling in.i took it to the car show last week and i still have blisters on my a$$ from sitting in it after it was parked for a few hours:lol:

What this a nude car show?:eek:

Yeah... gun metal!

:lol::lol: punk

Hmmmm, IRS? That's good news for me :D

How old of a car is the Corally SP12M? Can you still get parts for it?

It's at least 3yrs old, your better off going with the SP12X US version

So I should stick with the newer car?

I would, and like Jason (protc3) said the SP12X can use the Associated front end, but you may want to give the SP12X front end a chance, it is super easy to adjust, and very precise

i know this has been posted before most likely but what tires do people find the best succes with on asphalt? It would be for the CRC carpet knife. Also what else whould i change for springs and the oil. thanks for the help in advanced!
Jason

I run on asphault as well, here is a good starting point for tires, all 1/12th scale weels and tires should work with the Carpet Knife, which version is it? You might have a hard time getting a Carpet Knife to hookup on asphault, not saying it isn't possible, but a T-Bar car would be better for Asphault

Front
CRC Magenta or Purple

Rear
CRC Pink

thanks for the tire ideas
does anyone have any spring rates that they have found that work well?
and its the 3.2 version

Hi all,

I'm looking for a decent explanation on how to set up a 1/12th scaler.
I've been driving it for about 2 years now and I still havent found the finesse of a good setup.
I mean, I've been driving touring for, lets say 10 years or so, with a touring car I understand almost everything there is to understand to make it work under all circumstances. But I found that touring car rules work upto a certain point.

I'm running a GenX, I'm wondering just exactly what the rear side springs do... is it like this: they are directly connected to the main chassis, the part where all of the weight shifting happens. So, with this in mind: if I put on harder springs here, it makes the chassis harder to twist sideways. When this is harder it automatically means that the front wheels get less weight on them as well -> less steering.
Damper tubes: since with the damper tubes you damp the effect of the weight change it means: harder damping, less twitchy car.
Front springs: With hard side springs there will be less weight change but still; softer front springs -> more steer because there's more weight to that wheel.

I've been searching for a decent guide on how to setup a 1/12 but its nowhere to be seen. And yes, I found all the guides that say: stiffen up the rear will give more steer. But never what which does exactly, and if you dont know this you have abslutely no clue on what to change if you want (in my case: more steer when at mid speed). Its just guessing and hoping that what you've done works.

I hope one of the pro's can give me some explanations on how a 1/12th works, I'm sure I'm not the only one thanking you for this.

Quante I hope this helps

1/12TH TIPS
FRONT WIDTH
NARROW - more agressive steering
WIDER - less agressive
FRONT SPRINGS
No preload for .020 springs. E-clip preload for .018 springs.
SOFTER – more steering but may dig or square up too hard. Softer springs have higher chance of collapsing.
STIFFER – less steering. Do not allow the front to dive as easily. Smoothes car out on corner entry
CAMBER
MORE NEGATIVE – decrease low speed and increase high speed steering. Outside tire will tend to flatten out at higher cornering speeds and have
better contact patch. 1 ½ to 2 ½ deg.
CASTER
LESS – easier the car will turn. But, lose straight line stability and lose exit speed (car will not cut into a turn as well).
REACTIVE –reduces caster at turn in and increases it at exit. However, can cause more tire scrub in a turn and slow you down if not set up
properly.
TOE
OUT – decrease straight line stability and can make car wander but it enhances turn-in, especially on initial “cut”
IN –increase straight line stability but make it more difficult to turn
SIDE SPRINGS
If car feels edgy, a ¼ turn of preload can settle car down.
If car does not center up quick enough thru twisties, use stiffer spring.
SOFTER – more side bite for rear end but will be lazier transitioning back to center
STIFFER – less side bite. Faster transition, but can feel edgy.
SIDE TUBES / DAMPER DISK LUBE
Typically 10,000 ofna lube or Losi med hydra fluid
THICKER – increases front traction – adds steering. Slows transition and softens steering in fast sweepers. If car is double steering on power use
thicker oil to slow reaction time but if go to far you can see inside rear tire lift in tight corners.
THINNER – decreases front traction – decreases steering.
CENTER SHOCK
Spring/Oil combo have greater effect on net rear traction – the softer the spring/oil combo the more rear grip.
POSITION
FLATTER – more on-power steering (to a point)
HIGHER – less on-power steering
SPRING
LIGHTER – more rear traction and better control on bumpy tracks. much off power steering, little on power steering (less spinouts coming out of the
corner
STIFFER – less rear traction. much on-power mid-out steering, little off power steering
OIL
Controls the front to rear grip bias.
LIGHER - balance to rear (more rear traction)
HEAVIER - balance to front (more front traction/steering).
Best use a very weak oil with a softer front tire compound, for example a magenta instead of a purple for more overall traction instead of heavy oil
and a hard front tire.
REAR POD DROOP
MORE – makes car turn in harder. More hi-speed steering. Handles bumpy tracks better.
LESS or NONE – car smoother into corners
SIDE LINKS (ROLL-CENTER)
RAISE – raises roll center. Will increase steering.
LOWER – lowers roll center. Locks rear end more.
BATTERY POSITION
FORWARD – easier to drive, less steering. Less wt xfer into corners.
BACK – more steering due to increase in wt xfer. Car can feel darty off-power. This coupled with longer shock (rear pod droop) makes car rotate
harder into corners by unloading rear tires.
FRONT STEERING KNUCKLES
OFFSET – standard on any pancar (but oval)
INLINE – huge increase in steering response. Car becomes really twitchy. Sometimes used on 10th scale roadcourse pan car.
T-BAR SHIM
UNDER FRONT BALL – adds anti-squat – more initial steering on entry and plants rear mid corner and exit (push)
FRONT TIRES
LESS ROUNDED EDGE – makes car edgy and car want to tip over at high speed cornering situations. Can be advantageous on loose conditions
where car has no high-speed bite, tho.
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Typical tuning: front tires, center spring, and front tire-dope
In general: anything that stiffens rear end adds steering