I agree it is a faster motor but the Money is smoother :nod:

good starting point would be to run 47mm rear tires and a 100/36.i run a .030 verticle cut on the brushes(xxx brush) with green springs + and -.the car was real fast and was consistant throughout 8 minutes.

Hey guys. I'm looking into starting 1/12 on-road. I'm not all new to onroad but still a newb to electrics. I still run a Nitro TC3.

Anyways here are the things that I'll be getting to start out:
- RC12L4
-*Protoform 1/12 Speed 12 GTP Body
- Jaco 1/12 Medium Standard 3-Hole Wheel 1.40" Green (2)
- Jaco 1/12 Medium Standard 3-Hole Wheel 1.40" Green (2)
- Trinity 4C VIS-PRO 35 Matched Unassembled Race GP 4300
- Futaba S9602 Servo High-Speed Min
- Associated LRP Sphere Brushless/Brushed ESC

Now, I'm stuck on what motor and gearing to get for it. Should I start out with a stock motor with a 27T wind or should I go with a 19T wind?

And if I go with either one, what spur/pinion combo should I get? The track is about 100' x 20'. Basically the size of a basketball court.

BTW, what do you guys think of the Hot Bodies Twister 2.1 ESC? Good?

Thanks.

Green dots are still good tires but they wear really fast with todays batteries and motors. Gray rears and purple fronts would be a better call. Also, I'm a little confused about the 1.40", if you mean tire size that's way too small and your tires won't even be lower than the chassis, especially with a L4 that doesn't come with lowered pods.

You'd probably be better off with batteries from a smaller matcher, and I and most others prefer the IB batteries (3800 or 4200).

The Futaba S9602 is a good servo.

If you're going to get the sphere you might as well get a brushless motor to go along with it, especially if you're not going to be doing organized racing. If you're going to be racing with others just get what they're using as far as motors go. Decide what motor you want and we can help you with gearing.

Are you sure that's the size of the track, is it just two long straights and two hairpins? :lol:

The twister 2.1 is a good ESC but probably not a good choice for someone new to electric since in order to get the most out of it you should get the setup tools that go along with it.

L4
 

Id go with a airtronics servo for the L4..eventhough associated now has cool adjustable, aluminum servo mounts; the chassis servo mount holes are drilled to fit a airtronics case perfectly...PINK rears unless you are running on carpet...then you will need harder rears to get that car to turn....

anyone (I was told to ask OD) know what brand Ti ballstuds fit the smaller ball-end of dampener tubes?

You can use the Lunsford Mini-T ball studs #7181. They take a 2.5x.45 nut (don't ask me how Crashby figured this out)

7181 doesn't look like it has enough threads to get a nut on with the rev.4 3mm plate.

Sorry forgot about the new cross brace, you're right! The stud dia is larger than a 2/56 ball stud, so I just drill and tap the cross brace, then glue the ball stud in. I've only built a couple this way but haven't lost a ball stud (I think it helps to only partially thread the cross brace for a slight force fit on the ball stud threads)

do you know the size of the ball? I'm looking for something a little less permanent/labor intensive :lol:

The ball is .391mm (.154"). Good Luck, I think you will spend more time and effort finding another ball stud (there's probably one out there somewhere; try 1/18 cars) than if you just use these and GET TO WORK! :lol: :lol:

pff, work. I did enough work rolling up carpet at the roar nats for the next few months :lol:

Does the miniT ballstud keep the dampener tube geometry the same?

When running the accosiated front end how do you set the rid height? Other than tyre size every other change would alter something on the front end?

with shims under the lower arm

The best way that I've seen is to have someone mill off .060 from the lower arms (I think you can buy them like this too?) and use spacers or shims under the lower arms to get more ride height.