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Quote:

Originally Posted by odpurple

The ball is .391mm (.154"). Good Luck, I think you will spend more time and effort finding another ball stud (there's probably one out there somewhere; try 1/18 cars) than if you just use these and GET TO WORK! :lol: :lol:

RC18T ballstuds are .16" (4mm). Think they will work?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayBee

The best way that I've seen is to have someone mill off .060 from the lower arms (I think you can buy them like this too?) and use spacers or shims under the lower arms to get more ride height.

IRS sells lowered Associated front arms. The ones we have at SIR are lowered by Croiser.

FYI. I've noticed with the CRC Pro Cut's the lowered front arms are a waste. You have to space them so high you migh as well just start with normal arms.

Yup, they are pretty much at the rim when you dont have to run any spacers/shims under the arms.

-Korey

Quote:

Originally Posted by smojoe

pff, work. I did enough work rolling up carpet at the roar nats for the next few months :lol:

Does the miniT ballstud keep the dampener tube geometry the same?

Fortunately I am old and can use that as an excuse for not doing stuff like carpet rolling. Ruben believes me when I say this kind of stuff and I appreciate that.
The Mini T ballstuds are a little shorter than the stock ones so they will increase the damper tube angle a little. I can't tell the difference on the track.

Quote:

Originally Posted by smojoe

RC18T ballstuds are .16" (4mm). Think they will work?

yes, if that is the true dimension they will fit, and be tighter. I'll bet if you measure them yourself they will match the MiniT ones.

Ive been checking out the CRC pro cut tires and was wondering if magenta/magenta would be the equivilent of double pink/double pink by jaco?

Thanks

Yup, it's pretty darn close.

Alright, thats great, thanks.

Now at big races are drivers cutting them down even farther, or do most run them straight out of the box?

It depends on what you are running on. On asphalt I just threw them on my car and they were good. On carpet I still trim them down a bit.

-Korey

Quote:

Originally Posted by Switch Blade

Alright, thats great, thanks.

Now at big races are drivers cutting them down even farther, or do most run them straight out of the box?

From what I've heard they still need to be cut down a bit to get the most out of them.

Thanks OD, next time we meet I owe you a coke or something (assuming everything works out ;) )

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ike

Green dots are still good tires but they wear really fast with todays batteries and motors. Gray rears and purple fronts would be a better call. Also, I'm a little confused about the 1.40", if you mean tire size that's way too small and your tires won't even be lower than the chassis, especially with a L4 that doesn't come with lowered pods.

You'd probably be better off with batteries from a smaller matcher, and I and most others prefer the IB batteries (3800 or 4200).

The Futaba S9602 is a good servo.

If you're going to get the sphere you might as well get a brushless motor to go along with it, especially if you're not going to be doing organized racing. If you're going to be racing with others just get what they're using as far as motors go. Decide what motor you want and we can help you with gearing.

Are you sure that's the size of the track, is it just two long straights and two hairpins? :lol:

The twister 2.1 is a good ESC but probably not a good choice for someone new to electric since in order to get the most out of it you should get the setup tools that go along with it.

Thanks for the replies guys.

About the 1.40", I think those are the wheels. The tire size is 47mm high.

I look into those IB batteries. Do those batteries last long? I heard that some batteries last longer than others even if they're, I don't remember if it was charged or discharged, at a high rate.

The track was actually once a full size outdoor basketball court. It has some sort of antiskid coating on it. Kinda like sandpaper. When I run my NTC3 on it with rubber tires, you can hear the tires squeak. What kind of tires would you recommend for this surface? Firm?

If I was to go completely brushless, should I go Novak or LRP? And which one? I wanna be able to run it in my RC10T3. Its go an 12T in it now.

Alright guys, I have a few CRC t-fource questions (ripon speedway specific questions are in parentheses, so maybe OD, Crashby, or another local can answer)

1. Does it actually come with a graphite t-bar like shown in the picture? if not, whats the thickness? (what works best for ripon?)

2. What size front springs come in the front? (are these okay for ripon?)

3. Does it come with extra front caster blocks? are aluminum caster blocks a worthy upgrade for an outdoor noobie?

4. Does it come with a CRC durashock? (what wt. oil should I start with at ripon?)

I'm sure I'll come up with more questions later. Thanks!

I know some guys using the Xray Ball joints for the Dura Shock, but what about the steering assembly?
Are they too big to use or is there any issues with using them on an AE Style Front end?
I just hate ball cups and having to bust out the pliers all the time.
Parts:
XRA303220 Ball Joint
XRA303240 5.8mm Hex 4+4

Quote:

Originally Posted by smojoe

1. Not sure about the graphite T bar. But it's a cheap part to replace. You should be using a T bar like the Associated .063 for Ripon.

2. Regardless of what springs come in the kit, I would start with .022 springs. Again, cheap and easy to get.

3. I comes with 0, 5 and 10 degree caster blocks and no, you don't need the aluminum blocks.

4. From the pictures on the website, it looks like it does not come with the new CRC shock which is too bad if it doesn’t as that is a very good shock. At some point you are going to want to replace it with the Dura shock or a Silva shock. For Ripon I would start off with 30wt oil in the shock and the olive spring.