Hi tpczx6, Thx for your response. Well I know this page and mostly when someone asks they will be delivered this page ;-) and this is what I mean. You only get what the result will be if you change something, but you have no idea why it works that way.
I'll give an example:

SIDE TUBES / DAMPER DISK LUBE
Typically 10,000 ofna lube or Losi med hydra fluid
THICKER – increases front traction – adds steering. Slows transition and softens steering in fast sweepers. If car is double steering on power use
thicker oil to slow reaction time but if go to far you can see inside rear tire lift in tight corners.
THINNER – decreases front traction – decreases steering.

Why is this?? Changing the damper tube oil has, as far as I can tell a direct impact on dampening the front. Because the weight distribution in the front will be the movement of the complete main chassis. if you dampen this with the tubes, this should make for idd a softer steer BUT, thinner would definately not mean decreasing front traction, just better reaction of the front!!!!
Does anyone have a good explanation for the things going on in a 1/12?

thickening the dampening on the king pins or in the tubes or damper discs will do exactly that,dampen.the explination tim gave is correct.when you use thicker oil in the tubes,it slows the rate at which the chassis rolls.the chassis rolls around the central pivot.thickening the damper tube oil will slow the rate the side spring or t bar absorb the weight transfer and will transfer more of the weight to the outside front wheel creating more downforce on the front tire making it dig harder.if you need to run too thick of oil to get steering,then your side springs are too soft.you do not want to have to run too thick because even though you are gaining steering,you are slowing down the rate at which the chassis reacts.if you are too thick the car can have a tendancy lift the inside rear tire because of this.the best is to set a limit of say,10,000 wt oil in the tubes and never exceed that.
for dampening on the kingpins,i use this to slow the reaction of the front suspension.this is something that is commonly overlooked.the front suspension works faster than the rest of the car.therefor you need to slow it down to keep a balance.when you enter a corner,weight is transfered to the front of the car.it is then absorbed by the front springs(how much that is transfered to the front tires is dependant on what springs you use).once the weight is absorbed,then the front will relax.with that being said,all of this can happen before you get set into the corner and cause the front to slip or double steer.now at this point you will need to dampen the front to slow it down.usually 5000 wt. works for me.this also allows me to use lighter oil in the tubes because i am not compensating for the push just in the tubes.you balance the dampening between the front and rear and you will have a car that bites good and reacts fast.

Hey Jason, are you talking about 500wt in the center shock? I havent really messed with my 1/12 much, when you say dampen the front, I thought this was all done with springs, do you also use oil on the kingpin or something else to slow the front suspension?

30 wt. in the center shock.i use 5000 wt. on the kingpins.the king pins work just like a damper tube with a spring.i control the reaction of the front end this way.without any oil on the kingpins,it will work like a pogo stick in a sense.alot of people use damper tubes to cure push but the steering can be manipulated from the front also.just relying on the side spring and dampening isnt always the answer.my rule of thumb is to use the lightest dampening possible for the tubes and kingpins.faster reaction and lots of steering is what you want.:cool:

also,springs are on the car to absorb the weight transfer and absorb shock.the spring rate or wire thickness will determine how much weight will be absorbed and how much will transfer to the wheel.the front is a little different than the side to side because the front needs to compress in order to load the front tires.with side spring tension,a heavier side spring tension will drive more of the weight to the front opposing wheel and a lighter one would absorb the twist more.i like to run .020 frnt spring most often.they work well and do not collapse..018 would be my favorite if they didnt collapse so easy. i like a decent amount of progressive side spring tension in the rear.this is why i have always been a T bar guy and this is why i went the route i did with my new car.flextures are very progressive as opposed to a coil spring.

Cool . . .thanks for the setup tips for the 1/12th scale! I just built my CRC T-Fource. I haven't had a chance to run it yet - I just got my gears and I'm trying to get my hands on an adapter for my tire truerer to true the tires. Check out the photo of what I've done so far

nice car.:cool:

aww man, yours came with the graphite t-bar? mine didn't :cry:

I would advise you to use tape. The battery retaining system, although good looking, is a little.... warpy :lol: check out how straight the graphite bar is that the dampener tubes mount on. for the two minutes I had the battery straps installed on the T-fource it looked like a wet noodle.

Jason, I'm new in 1/12 scale with my 12L4 but having a blast with it! I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild of it and was wondering if you're saying to use a 5000 wt. diff. lube to the damper disc and the front king pins? This won't gum up the pins I take it? Oh, I'm running on a large, flowing outdoor track, pretty smooth and med traction.

Thanks, Allen

that is what i always start with.it does get a little dirty after the day is done.i clean it out and re lube before each race day anyway.you dont want to load it on there.what i do is put a litle on the washers,rub them together and get a thick fully coated layer on the contact surfaces of the washers.i remove the top plate and stick the washers in there place on the top plate.i rub them into the top plate until it starts to feel stiff or you feel decent resistance.then i install the top plate with the washers already stuck to it.
for the kingpins,i just take the kingpin out,coat it with the oil,drop it through the pivot ball and spin the kingpin to ensure a good coat.then i slide the steering block on.i add a little more to the bottom of the kingpin and slide it through the lower pivot ball,install the spring and e-clip.wipe excess off the plastic but not off the kingpin.:cool:

Jason:

Hi.

The new rear pod looks nice!!!!!!!. can't wait for the kits to come out. I'm on 1st all this week so I'll try to call after I get off.

Thanks

Thanks Jason for helping out with 1/12 help the list I posted is in a cover and its he frist page I look at to help an old man remember things. The new car looks good and the new rearend will sell real good when you have time send one to Yang He's going to need it when we go outdors in a few weeks.

whats settings are you guys using to run the 12l4 outdoors?

New to RC
 

I have just been given a Victor Hawk 1/12 scale

FIRE BLADE made in china. Can some one tell me

if the Corally SP 12m parts fit the FIRE BLADE car?

They look very much the same?

Can you get spare parts for the FIRE BLADE.

Thanks GUY :batman:

I live in Australia.

Hi Jason,

Thx for the great explanation on how a 1/12th works!! Now this is something I can work with. This is going into my Pit bag, forever!!! (just hope there's no typo's in it then :) )