StephenSobottka

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys i will be getting an evo 2 soon and am getting the c-hub first before ne thing(swaybars are a definate) I've never used a one way in en thign before and have been solid top 3 every time at the local tracks. I really dont see a need for them yet.

David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

I have not benefited from a one-way on a medium to small track that is technical and/or tight. I don't recommend it.

I would recommend a one-way to try it, but I prefer a locked diff on tight technical tracks.

JeffC

iTrader: (5)

I usually run a oneway in stock rubber. The car just rolls so much nicer with it. I've been thinking about puting a diff back in, and setting the car up to work with it, hopefully end up with a more forgiving car that's just as fast.

StephenSobottka

iTrader: (8)

hey Jeff yes a diff is more forgiving and yes i can use my car with it and am just as fast with guys who have one.

Simon K

Well, I seriously considered the EVO 2 as my next purchase but the wheels have fallen off that wagon.

Personally, I hate pivot ball suspension designs and because of that, I was keen to get a C hub conversion when buying the kit. After reading about the dubious front arms, I was a little discouraged but the shocker really came when I found out the price.
X Ray EVO2 kit NZ$ 730
C hub conversion NZ$ 305

Sorry, I'm can't pay almost half the kits value for some suspension parts alone. Alloy suspension components just don't do it for me so it's "bye bye" potential X ray.


Now, I don't know anything about producing a kit but....
Would it be prohibitively costly to make the pricey alloy parts from Composite? Does the cost of creating the Composite plastic mould(vs Machining alloy blocks)make it a "too expensive" alternative?.

Is it possible to market two kits, one with Pivot ball suspension and another with Composite plastic C hubs as standard?
I'm not suggesting a simplified "RTR" kit, but it gives potential purchasers a choice of car that would suit their needs(Especially if the C hubs do change the handling characteristics of the car)

Corse-R

STNLST: I've noticed that the 32's arent as good as 28's, but I figured that is a personal fixation and 36's seemed me too hard for the track temps that we had (only one race was done with 65ºC track temp: Reedy International last august and we needed to race with crappy BRCA Control Tyres - ProLine 1095'B' compound).

For not being completely off-topic. I'm having problems with the front belt skipping on my new Evo2 - up to the point sometimes the belt escapes from the pulley. Is that normal? on what position you people put the front eccentric? - Mine was at stock position (I think so....).

Corse-R

Uhm... On the VIP Xray room Mario Hudy has repeated so many times that the 'Carpet Option' or C-hub suspension is a tunning option not a brand new kit.

Why is quite pricey? Because from the pivot ball suspension, the unique piece you use on the new suspension is the connection between the universal and the front hub. All the rest is brand new (the same goes to the rear suspension). That's which is so high priced.

But if you want, you can get the front and rear suspension separately and then isn't so scorcher the price but... the best you can do is ask for a local to test their pillow ball car and test it (this is what I did and convinced me instantly) I was a 3 years old TC3 driver and fell captured by this car.

David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

front eccentric? Front - High and Back - Low

I have a tensioner and so I have not had the problem with the belt skipping.

Usagi

yea for rear 6800 yen and front 20,000 yen........cheap hell no!
not to be a pain, but these prices are unthinkable...........

RC Nitro

I am happy with mine. I have a T1 and the C-Hub conversion. C-Hub adds a ton of steering. I installed the rear 2 weeks ago. Adds additional steering and I had to dial this out. I am going back to pillow ball in the rear. I actually prefer pillow ball.

stormperson

iTrader: (1)

after losing the A main in stock carpet by around a second yesteday (and i had closed up the gap only in the last minute), i am looking for any tips or anything for carpet. i am running hte c hub front, and the car handles great, but i need an extra .1 or a second here and there if possible. so i was thinking, is there a "not aviable to the public" top deck for carpet racing? since i have the flexi one (which was included in the evo 2 that i bought), but the chassis flexes so much i find it hard to believe that the regular strenth one will do the trick.

also i have been running a tc3 for a few years, i know how to free up that drive train, but what do i do for an xray ray? i normally take off the inside shield of the beairngs, spray it out, and put a very lightly beairng on it. but what do i do for the belt? i have heard some people soak it in wd-40?

i am looking for anything here! lol

dtm

Speedmind Racing Blue (firm) with Speedmind wheels....they also leave a gap between tire and insert....works for me!

dtm

Front belt tensioner...the new Racing Kelvar belts do stretch more than the std belt and there is not enough adjustment from the bulkhead tensioner....replace with new std belt or buy the front belt tensioner (You can make one up with a servo horn and some bearings if you want!). This was also an issue with the second batch T1 cars.....some quality problems with the Xray belt supplier!!

dtm

No..you are right the 32R have a much narrower temp range...although a friend has told me that Sorex have changed the molds on the 32R so I may give them a spin again. The new 32R have "32R" on the tire sidewalls!!

dtm

You can buy the old upper deck without the slot cut out...this will make the car stiffer. You can notice the difference just by twisting the chassis a little.

You have the "thinner" Racing belts with the Evo 2.....not a good idea to use WD40...will leave you with a belt which is smoother...but will stretch very quickly.....those racing belts don't come cheap!!