Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

I agree, I've not had any drivetrain problems with mine, & I got mine when they first hit the shops(about a year ago), & I've used the front diff, one-way & spool in it. I think most of those kinds of problems can be traced to an error in assembling or setting it up....

HeliYogi

iTrader: (17)

The problem is vibration and noise as if the dog bones had come out when turning to the right or left. It's OK if there is just a little turn or when dead center.

It was suggested to get a Spoll and a 46mm universal. I did, it's installed and the problem persist.

Look at the videos. The big riddle is when I take of the tiers the vibration stops, there is nothing toching or obstructing the wheell as it turns, I also tried difrent wheels/tiers, same thing.

With tiers on:

+ YouTube Video

No tiers on, semms fine!

+ YouTube Video

If you have Skype my handle is yogi.marcos I apreciate your help.

Marcos

wyd

iTrader: (51)

That is a common problem that almost every car that uses a spool has. Speedtech RC has some drive shaft setups from Spec R for the Tamiya 416 that stops that problem but they are 40 bucks and out of stock. It has nothing to do with the TA05 being a bad car. Its almost every high end car you can think of. Here is the link to them. http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=619&id=9042

Every high end car that does not have a lvd dual type driveshaft has this problem. My TC5R has it, the 416, 415, TAO4, TAO5, Cyclone, Sukura Zero, MI3, E4 all have this problem. Xray does as well unless it has the special driveshafts and they are only make for a few cars. The only car that never has this problem is the Losi JRXS and JRXS Type R since Losi developed the special two piece swing shafts needed to fix the problem and had a patent on it.

Spec R has them that fit the Schumacher MI4, Xray, 416 and the ones for the 416 should fit the TA05 IFS V2 and TB03 since they have the same short a arm setup and hubs.

HeliYogi

iTrader: (17)

Well it did it with the stock Diff (worse because the dog bones actually came out) and still does it with the spoll as you can tell. This is why I my commented about the BAD kit quality. However I hope it's actually something I done wrong because I can't run it like this.

I don't understand how can the car be run as is, let alone race? you can't take a tight turn without it braking and going out of control.

Anyway thanks, Wyd.

Any other suggestion?

Marcos

HarryN

iTrader: (2)

I just bought the 46mm swing shafts (steel front aluminum rear) to get rid of that problem. The same thing happened with me when I was using the dog bones. If I made a left or right turn around a 180 turn, my dogbone would pop out and my car is stalled.

Ever since going with the swing shafts, that is a problem of the past. You can get the Tamiya EVO IV swing shafts since they are 46mm as well. Worth every penny.

fat500

iTrader: (51)

the problem is offically called drive line chatter. EVERY car you can buy will do it. My tb03 does it, just way less because of the cvd,s. you have to turn down your steering throw until chatter is about 20%. you built the car fine. THE only way to fix this is buy getting the speedtech part mentioned above.
As soon as they are in stock i will get a set. Notice they make those drive shafts for ALL the high end 500.00++ kits.
It is a normal part of the design for rc cars until they all switch to a spec R type setup.
I run my steering throw(the amount the wheels turn) at 85%
so I took away 15 % of my steering on my tb03 to get rid of the chatter. good luck and you are not crazy

now...your car seems to have a problem with the inside of your rim hitting the very ends of your suspension arms at full steering throw.
this happens when you run a 26mm rim on a car designed around a 24mm wheel. I had the Same exact problem as soon I put on the 26mm rim. You have to put a 1mm thick shim on the axel to fix this problem. see the pics below.
the shim is the small round black circle. Hpi rims come with a 1.5 mm hex shaped spacer with the wheels to fix this problem. Notice the wheels that came with your kit have ( + 2mm) stamped in little letters on the outer edge of the rim. They are 24mm with a 2mm offset so they do not rub. Put in a spacer...get some cvd,s and you will be happy like us all Your video did the trick too
tired of typing bdhbdpv..mndv now

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Hi All! Exotek EX05 lipo chassis set coming at the end of the month! Price to be determined. More info soon!

fat500

iTrader: (51)

Grrrreeeaatttttt........I just got the carbon tub and now i see this gift from the exotek gods......WOW sign me up

over gear

iTrader: (18)

HOT! does the conversion kit also work for non IFS ta05?

robk

iTrader: (22)

Holy crap is that awesome.

HeliYogi

iTrader: (17)

Fat 500 & HarryN, I am grateful for your help. It's so cool to be able to have this forum for advice and specially problem solving. This RC idiot really appreciate's it.

The good news is that there is a solution! The bad news is that is makes my wallet an extra $40.00 lighter. Actually it will be $40 plus $24 for the spoll and $20 for the 46mm universal. $84.00 more just to get it to do what it's spoused to do after building it.

So allow me a small steam release gesture (hope you guys don't mind too much) I will re-state my previous remarks (but now with concrete evidence). The Tamiya TA05 V2 kit stock quality is CRAP

I guess I can use the 46mm universal that I have now in the front for the back?

Fat500 I will follow all your suggestions and keep you in the loop.

Cheers,
Marcos

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Is that for the standard version or will it fit the IFS V2?

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Well on a good note alot of touring cars that cost twice as much all have the vibration problem with a spool so I guessits not bad to be crap. Also Tamiya is the 2 time World Champion in touring car and yes the 416 suffers from the same problem as your 05 does. Needs 40 buck upgrade for the SPec R swingshaft set.

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

looks like v2. motormount and pulleyt in the pic

HeliYogi

iTrader: (17)

I know!
I only have Tamiya cars, and two have been problem-less out of the box: the F103R and the old Grop "C" chassis/C11 (the older of the lot and the most easy, fast and stable). This sedan (my first) and another direct drive kit the F103RM needed at least 50% extra investment on top of the kits purchase price just to get them running correctly

I gess this RC thing causes addiction
Cheers!
Marcos