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Old 08-27-2009, 05:29 PM   #421
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET View Post
change Tamiya c hub !
china ver. is 0 deg caster
I'm sure youre incorrect. I got mine and they put the c hubs on the wrong way round. It make them look 0 degree, whem actually theyre not. I swapped them round and they must be 4 deg.
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Old 08-27-2009, 05:47 PM   #422
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Heres how my day went tonight!

Turned up, practiced and the car rolled too much with Tam White/Blue front, Tam White/Yellow springs rear. It felt ok, but it was very tricky at high speed.

Did first heat anyway and the car was average with the same setup. Still, I gave it a chance to make sure practice wasnt a error of judgement.

Second heat - Tapped the wall, bent the stering rack. Not good. The car toed out after a tap. Disapointed.

Third and final heat before final - I set the car up again, managing to fix the steering rack by tightening the pivot screw in hard. Quick fix im afraid, so needs replacing for next time. Car was completely set up straight again. I changed the oil to 50wt all round (from 40wt) and harder springs, Tam White/White front, Tam White/Blue rear. The car felt better from the off, but still seemed to pitch too much at high speed still. Finished the run in 2nd place in my heat.

Final - Qualified with my third heat run with 6th in the B final. In the race itself, I dropped back to last and crawled back to finish 4th in the Bs, so not a bad run really. Car needs a lot of setup work still.

My honest verdict - The car is too fragile. I was always worried about crashing slightly and damaging the car. The metal parts arent really hard enough. Handling wise, it was good. Could be very good with work.
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Old 08-27-2009, 05:59 PM   #423
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hmmm.. if you have to replace the alu parts then its not far away in price compared to the original car (ok might be a $100 difference but thats too little to me)
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Old 08-27-2009, 06:42 PM   #424
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hmmm.. if you have to replace the alu parts then its not far away in price compared to the original car (ok might be a $100 difference but thats too little to me)
I fully agree with you. Although performance wise it was good, its just not worth the money. Bulkheads I think you'll get away with, thanks to them being seperate to the arms, but the metal parts holding the arms in, could bend easy. I definately was not expecting the metal to fatigue like that on impact. Chassis is good but the overall deal is a waste of time.

The car looks brilliant, handles well, but the rest makes the deal a waste of time. I was told that the real 416 is a pain at breaking parts too. I will prob leave it as a good spare car, but an xray seems to be the only way to go to not worry about having knocks. It definately effected my driving yesterday, knowing a tap could end my race!
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Old 08-27-2009, 06:43 PM   #425
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There has been a lot of misinformation on this forum about this car. Sure its lacks Tamiya’s quality but put it up against a real car and you will be surprised how close to the original it actually is owners of the real can’t tell the difference till you point it out. lol. The main point is the measurements match that of a real car.

I have raced this car with a 4.5T and LiPo and I have broke a few bits, overall the car holds up well. The only thing that broke that I could put down to the quality of the car was the universal swing shafts, the aluminium universals are weak. I broke the front and rear ones with out hitting anything, just from the power of the car. I did strip the rear ball studs out of the uprights, but this was due to hitting the wall, which seems to happen to the 10x5 uprights.

For all of those buying the copy so far I would recommend the following:
-Strip the car and build it how you would build any kit.
- Build the rear diff as tamiya does, just cut the diff screw to length and add loctite to the thread (the real screw has the loctite already on it)
- Change all the universal swing shafts to steel (what a lot of people do on the real thing)
-Change the ball cups, they pop off when you try to change camber but stay on when you hit a wall. lol
- A titanium screw set is good too, as I found the hex in some screws where different a size, some seem imperial and others metric.
-Buy the spares that you would usually buy for any kit so if any thing breaks just change it to original Tamiya.
The following spares should get you through.
- Front and rear belts
- Front and rear pulleys and centre pulleys
- Arms, uprights and c-hubs
- Diff plates, balls, screw, and thrust bearings
- Bearing set
- Universal cross joints and axles.
- TA05 Stabilizer bar Kit (this gives you all the bars)

I am a Tamiya fan and was hesitant in buying this but overall it is fine for the price. If you want a high quality kit buy the Tamiya but if want a racecar that you don’t have to care about buy the copy. Tamiya is still making money out of this kit, as you have to buy their spares.

For those selling the copy second hand, don't try and pass it off as real one, this is wrong when you only pay $200 and make money of a car of lesser quality by saying it is a real one.
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Old 08-27-2009, 07:26 PM   #426
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Im not worried.

I was the guy telling everyone there was nothing wrong with the JRXS-R arms when they came out. This was only because the entire time i had the car, prototype, pre production and then production- i broke like only 2 arms.. lol..

so- durability is less of a concern for me than does the car work well.
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Old 08-28-2009, 02:47 AM   #427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersonic View Post
There has been a lot of misinformation on this forum about this car. Sure its lacks Tamiya’s quality but put it up against a real car and you will be surprised how close to the original it actually is owners of the real can’t tell the difference till you point it out. lol. The main point is the measurements match that of a real car.

I have raced this car with a 4.5T and LiPo and I have broke a few bits, overall the car holds up well. The only thing that broke that I could put down to the quality of the car was the universal swing shafts, the aluminium universals are weak. I broke the front and rear ones with out hitting anything, just from the power of the car. I did strip the rear ball studs out of the uprights, but this was due to hitting the wall, which seems to happen to the 10x5 uprights.

For all of those buying the copy so far I would recommend the following:
-Strip the car and build it how you would build any kit.
- Build the rear diff as tamiya does, just cut the diff screw to length and add loctite to the thread (the real screw has the loctite already on it)
- Change all the universal swing shafts to steel (what a lot of people do on the real thing)
-Change the ball cups, they pop off when you try to change camber but stay on when you hit a wall. lol
- A titanium screw set is good too, as I found the hex in some screws where different a size, some seem imperial and others metric.
-Buy the spares that you would usually buy for any kit so if any thing breaks just change it to original Tamiya.
The following spares should get you through.
- Front and rear belts
- Front and rear pulleys and centre pulleys
- Arms, uprights and c-hubs
- Diff plates, balls, screw, and thrust bearings
- Bearing set
- Universal cross joints and axles.
- TA05 Stabilizer bar Kit (this gives you all the bars)

I am a Tamiya fan and was hesitant in buying this but overall it is fine for the price. If you want a high quality kit buy the Tamiya but if want a racecar that you don’t have to care about buy the copy. Tamiya is still making money out of this kit, as you have to buy their spares.

For those selling the copy second hand, don't try and pass it off as real one, this is wrong when you only pay $200 and make money of a car of lesser quality by saying it is a real one.
I've never doubted the performance of the car, as the geometry is a TRF416!
For indoor racing, I cannot really recomend the car, as its very weak. I tapped the wall onto the straight and the car splayed out it front wheels. I hate the amount of money that I need to spend to get it a lot stronger.
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Old 08-28-2009, 03:05 AM   #428
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My honest verdict - The car is too fragile. .
6 to 8 months use with a trf415msxx and 13.5 and all i've broken is one front upright.

This is primarily indoors on a tight carpet track, where contact is quite easy with the boards, or trying to overtake.

You can't predict the rigours of racing, you could get hit head on, t-boned, flipped over or whatever. In a big incident, the copy will be toast by the sound of it....

When I pay for club membership, race fees, tyres, fuel to get to a club etc etc, I want a car that is going to be durable.

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Old 08-28-2009, 03:18 AM   #429
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there are many different grade of Alloy out there If you need to change Bulkheads etc that's a waste of money but Real Tamiya Drivers change Cvds both front and rear with the steel ones so it's normal to change the driveshafts...
And Even real 416 is a bit hard to setup
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:17 AM   #430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersonic View Post
There has been a lot of misinformation on this forum about this car. Sure its lacks Tamiya’s quality but put it up against a real car and you will be surprised how close to the original it actually is owners of the real can’t tell the difference till you point it out. lol. The main point is the measurements match that of a real car.
Thats the main point.

Forget how it goes, the thing that is annoying so many people is, these chumps are profiting from someone elses investment, hard work, etc, and its wrong, unethical, and shouldn't be bought or supported by anyone with a shred of common sense.

And it'd be the same no matter which brand of car they copy.
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Old 08-30-2009, 03:03 PM   #431
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Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
there are many different grade of Alloy out there If you need to change Bulkheads etc that's a waste of money but Real Tamiya Drivers change Cvds both front and rear with the steel ones so it's normal to change the driveshafts...
And Even real 416 is a bit hard to setup
You have to think of the 416(c) as I bulkhead/chassis/top deck set, is the way I look at it. Basically, you get what you pay for. I think its handy to have a WE version of the 2.5mm chassis, instead of the normal 416 optional 2.5mm chassis, which has the weight further back.

By the time i'm properly done with this car, it will be 80% real lol.
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Old 08-30-2009, 03:15 PM   #432
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Originally Posted by maxg123456 View Post
You have to think of the 416(c) as I bulkhead/chassis/top deck set, is the way I look at it. Basically, you get what you pay for. I think its handy to have a WE version of the 2.5mm chassis, instead of the normal 416 optional 2.5mm chassis, which has the weight further back.

By the time i'm properly done with this car, it will be 80% real lol.
Exactly.

Thats the funny part.. is that after all of the money i will spend on the car, i should have just waited out a couple of used 416.. LOL.. what ever.. at least i have brand new, no story cars.

I will be running one on rubber primarily- the other will be for foam for the big races.. we will see what i can do with them.

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Old 08-30-2009, 03:24 PM   #433
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Originally Posted by maxg123456 View Post
I'm sure youre incorrect. I got mine and they put the c hubs on the wrong way round. It make them look 0 degree, whem actually theyre not. I swapped them round and they must be 4 deg.
last week arrived had 4 deg caster !
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:31 PM   #434
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Hi peeps. Going to run car tommorow evening and i'll let you all know how it went again. Stiffening up the car a lot more and making the shocks more upright are the key things i'm trying, as last time the car leaned too fast into the corners initially, then gripped later. Also, the car had too much weight transfer in the chicanes, so hopefully the changes I make will help.
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Old 09-04-2009, 02:45 AM   #435
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Thursday report -

Car felt excellent with the changes made. Didn't break anything

By the final, I qualified 2nd in the Bs. Not too bad but should've been a bit better. For some reason the car felt no where near as good in the race and finished 6th in the Bs.

The car did the job really. Just needed new tyres.
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