Ok, ok.. you're right, but for the time that really lasts a turn, the oil opposes too a force to the compression up to the time it cannot be compressed more (what really compresses into the shock is the little quantity of air on it) and then the shock locks itself and then the only way that a shock can work is uncompressing it and the spring can be compressed more and more at this moment but the oil don't permits (then the turn should 'say' if they can be uncompressed by the act of forces under).

If not, only two things can occur, a beatiful slide because the abrupt lack of grip or if the tyre can cope with this, a chassis flip.

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Great day for the TC3 again in Malta today.

In modified, son Josh won both finals with his John Bull Racing TC3 with another TC3 second, whilst both the Stock finals were also won by a TC3 driver.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

I am just wondering what kind of grease I have to put on the gears in my diffs, between the ring and pinion I think its called? I also will put the front one way in, and do I have to use a different type of grease for that?

Thanks!

Impreza,

If you mean the input gear, from the carbon drive shaft, to the bevelled gear on the diff, most people I know put a little silicon diff grease on these parts.
It's not strictly needed but I think it'll help in the long run.

Some people may argue it impedes the free running of the gears but you'd have to be a pretty serious racer to notice the difference.

In short, a little grease won't do any harm and may prolong the life of the gears. Just my opinion.

Yorkie

servo probs
 

Ok two weeks in a row I lost a servo. last week my servo saver came loose probably on a board hit or punt. I readjusted it and lost a servo, i wasnt sure on the adjustment as I didnt have my manual but come to find out I was pretty close this week I had it adjusted to the manual and lost another. nothing was hit hard (2' thick rope) or just a light punt caused it around a hairpin. I had "standard" JR servos could something be wrong with my servo saver or are the servos not really up to it. I dont want to frk out 70-100 for and top servo. any help will be REALLY appreciated. as in what adjustments to make or a good servo less than 50 is a metasl gear servo really needed?

The TC3 is a bit rough on servos. You can get a Kimborough small servo saver and use that instead of the associated servo arm, this will help quite a bit. You might have to do a little trimming but it isnt a big deal. The hitec 525MG is a great low cost metal gear servo, yea its not as good as the expensive ones but hey it costs less than half their prices. Servos can fail because of several reasons, if you don't have the end point adjustments of your radio set and the servo will continue to try to turn your wheels farther even though they have reached lock this will damage your servo and it is the number one reason for throttle servo failure in nitro vehicles and I suspect a very common reason for failure for steering servos too. The big problem is that people that wouldnt know this are more likely to be fairly new and the lower end radios dont have seperate right and left EPA adjustments.

One other thing you could try if you haven't done so already is squeeze the spring with a pair of plyers a couple of times. This should help some.

Just out of curiousity, have any of you experimented with placing washers under the ballstud located at the steering knuckle? Supposedly it helps to eliminate bump steer from what I've been reading. My question is what feeling does that mod have on the track? Does it make steering feel more responsive, smooth it out or something else entirely? I race foams on carpet by the way.................

Schuie I guess you mean the ballstud at the end of the steering linkage. I don't really see there being enough suspension movement in a sedan for that to do much of anything. Now on the upper ballstud on the camber link I have put a thin washer under it on occasion, lowers the roll center slightly so the front of the car rolls a bit more in the turns.

Actually, you are raising the roll center when you put a washer under the ballstud. If you want to lower RC slightly, put shims under the shocktower

Thanks guys........I didn't think there would be much of a noticable difference either but it seems like a bunch of the set up sheets I've read lately have a raised ballstud at the steering knuckle. (not the camber link :)

Shuie:

Hi,


we are playing around with this. so far we are at .062 shim under the ball stud on the steering knuckle. it seems to take out all the bump steer when we do this. (not sure this is a good thing....yet). we run on carpet/foams. can't really say if it's better. just yet. seems to depend on the track layout i.e flowing or not. I will post more when I have more track time on this setup.


Thanks

You will see more action from the shims under the ball studs if you use them when you change out the caster blocks.

Typically, this is our setup...

0 deg Caster blocks = 1 .100" Spacer
2 deg Caster blocks = 1 .060" Spacer
4 deg Caster blocks = 1 .030" Spacer

This helps out with bumpsteer. This is assuming you are running the F+2 block in the front (2 deg of Kickup).

Tony > Are these the same spacers that make the care longer or shorter? I thought they were all the same size. Where or what part number are the different size ones?

Thanks for the help Tony!!! Now I just have one other question........when you talk about eliminating bump steer on the car what does that mean? Will my steering be smoother as a result of eliminating the bump steer, will it be more agressive? I guess what I'm trying to say in not so many words is what effect does bump steer have on a car?