Tc3
 

I did not see an TC3 thread so here it is!Everone that has an tc3 post your stuff here!!:D

tc3
 

Ive got one!!! what shall we talk about??

Hey guys, I saw a guy take a TC3 RTR straight from the box, onto the track. The only change he made was his Radio. It seamed to run fairly well considering it was a RTR. :)

do they have bearings or bushings??

It comes with bearings :)

oh, so its just the tc3 racer w/ electronics, cool

What ESC does the RTR come with?

Prolly some kind of LRP esc.

LRP Runner ESC, It has Forward & Reverse. It is nice for what it is, but if you are going to race i would suggest getting a better ESC. It's not "legal" for most racing anyways due to the fact it has reverse.

Oh, man...I figured it would be like an F1 or something

With RTR's, cheapy is the name of the game.

what? the tc3 isnt a cheapp rtr, it seems to be the best electric rtr tc available to be...bearings, nice oil shocks, turnbuckles, etc

The TC3 really isnt all that "Cheapy" The only "Cheap"part of the whole car is the Radio. If it was me, i would throw the LRP Runner into a Traxxas Rustler, or sell it to someone who has a rustler.

Take the radio and use it only to get basic "car controls" learned down pat ( many people have problems starting out, when the car comes at them they turn the wrong way, ect... Its normal!! ) then get nicer radio like a Futaba Jr, or JR XR2. :)

By cheap, I meant inexpensive. For example, Associated isn't going to throw in a LRP Pro Digital ESC in a RTR car, because they want to keep the price down. This is why they didn't have a better ESC or a better radio in the car.

I think for the price the RTR TC3 is a sweet car it comes bearings and a good esc! I think it is one of the best rtr cars that u can almost take to the track only thing u need is a good motor!:D

Yea, but the car is competitive, atleast the 3 I had were

Yes, the TC3 is a great car. I made the transition from oval to road coarse and found it very easy to turn right!!:D I also started racing offroad, and Ive gotten very good and am now considering going to the nations to "play"

I have a TC3. And race it in Malta. I never had any huge problems with it and I find it very reliable. I think it is the best starter and pro kit around. It is also good value for money. It also does not require any hop-ups, apart from a one-way diff.

Lowrider - You *should* get a new ESC too. Like i said earlier, sell the LRP runner to someone with a Traxxas Rustler/ E-pede. I would at least get something like a Novak Explorer, or another "sport" ESC without reverse.

What Tires?
 

What tires seem to work well on medium-to-high bite asphault (a little bumpy) outdoors? I was considering either the Pro-Line H13's, or the Sorex 36R. Track temp gets pretty high here in S. Fla. I'm also going to try Mark Pavidis' winning setup from The Reedy TC Race. Thanks!

What about inserts?
 

Almost forgot about inserts... I 've been using Jaco Blue. How do you tell if you need to use a harder or softer insert as opposed to changing the tire?:confused:

First of all hi everybody (everyone says he Dr. Nick)

I just got my tc3 a couple of days ago and I am so anctious to run it i tossed a servo and reciever in (no motor or esc) along with a reciever pack and started pushing it around in my living room. I do have two complaints, they did not do the greatest job on molding. I had to exacto one of the gearboxes to get everything to run smoothly (bearing was getting binded by case). My second complaint is that the shocks are the work of the devil and companies that sell shock oil :flaming: . I used half a bottle of shock oil and 3 of them still have a little air. I would like to know who designed the shocks and give them a good hearty handshake around their throat.

Besides those 2 complaints the car is great. Cant wiat to get my novak atom and p2k in this thing.

Try this for perfect TC3 shocks... First, soak the little foam compensators in shock oil before you install them. Don't just immerse them, hold them in the oil and squeeze em a few times each. Before you assemble the parts, go over each and every one of those plastic parts with an Xacto knife and make SURE there is NO mold flashing left over. It's better to remove a bit of the part than to leave ANY flash.

Once the shocks are assembled, fill the bodies with oil to the top. Work the pistons up and down a few times slowly to untrap any air underneath them. Add a bit more oil to each shock to get them to the top again. I like the oil to make a little "dome" sticking up past the top of the body.

Now put the shocks in a rack and go away for a while to let any remaining tiny air bubbles to slowly work their way up. After they've sat for a while, grab a shock, fill a cap with oil, and quickly screw the cap on to the body. Be careful to not cross thread the cap. Tighten the cap all the way hand tight and see if you can push the shaft all the way in. If you can, you didn't get enough oil in there. Remove the cap, add more oil to the body, refill the cap, and try again. If it won't go all the way, You're in good shape.

Loosen the cap one turn, push the shaft all the way in, count to three, then tighten the cap and let go of the shaft. Now check to see if you can push the shaft all the way in. You should be able to, and it should come back out most or all of the way on its own. Repeat for the other three shocks.

Trips

I have a FTTC3 and it currently is set-up using Mark Pavidis' numbers. I am about to get a TC3 upgraded with a Megatech chassis and IRS components. One of the local racers is leaving the hobby temporarily so I opted to buy his successively winning kit.

Who was it? I hope it's not Wes B. that's quitting...

Trips

Yes it is Wes, he is taking a leave of absence from the hobby and he will be back. He can even have his car back for less than what I am buying it for, if he so chooses to run the TC3 again. I may not ever touch his kit since it is only needed as a back-up to my TC3.

Well, I hope he gets back into it sooner than later... he's always fun to be around at the track.

Please say hi to him for me next time you see him.

Thanks,

David

Trips, where in NY is Bayside?????

I am sure he will have viewed this board before I see him next. I will visit with him on Friday to make the exchange and to dyno two motors I tuned.

Did you guys ream the hinge pin holes in the arms before you assembled the car. Mine bind slightly, and I noticed that once I snapped the ball cups on the studs the suspension binds a little more. Any ideas? If you did use a reamer to ream the arms what size did you use? Offroad uses 1/8" but that is WAY too big for these pins.

thats actualy a good idea. mine were a pain in the but to put in. i used a rubbermallet to get them in. If it is realy hard to get in, I would use a body reamer or exacto and make the edge of the hole (where it starts) and make it a little bigger. it should help alot. If if it realy doesnt fit u can use a drill bit and bore it out, but i highly recomend not to do this adn would not condone it.

I sprayed Teflon and spun the pin in the arm with my dremel. It is extremely smooth, no binding now.

It's in the southeastern part of Queens, not far from the Bronx.

Where is Meridian?

Trips

Meridian is about 25-30 miles west of Syracuse.

ITS RUNNING
 

Finaly I got my tc3 running. man this thing is fast. It is so fast that it just spins the tires. I love doing doughnuts in my living room.

Re: What about inserts?
 

Check this setup with your TC3.

- ProLine 1095 H13 w/ Yokomo ZR37 soft inserts. Soooo smooth.
- ProLine 1095 S3 w/ Yokomo ZR37 med inserts or Jaco Green, blue ones are too hard.

I agree that the TC3 is fast even with a stock motor, but I can certainly see I am not going to run my best stockers in it because the motors get SO hot. I will save them for offroad. Any recommendations on gearing for say a Rage or Paradox motor? I am also looking for a good concrete setup. It is concrete similar to sidewalk concrete. Pretty smooth too.

Ummm, I cannot help you with the stock motor gearing, I race modified only. It's normal for motors to get so hot in the TC3 (I'm racing with my TC3 two years in a row) and I consider normal the temperature, you can lower a little this temp using the optional AE3928 long heatsink (supposing that you're using the stock black endbell) or the short if you're using the optional blue.

Personally I prefeer to use the black one (remember, the black absorbs more heat than the blue).

Thanks Corse, but...
 

What I was trying to ask was... If I know that tire "A" is the hot ticket for a particular track, what do I look for to determine if I need a harder or softer insert to go with it? Does surface play a role? If I just go with what everyone else uses for an insert, how do I know that maybe there isn't a better insert out there to try?

BTW, about the black heatsink... no wonder Mark Pavidis' winning car had the black heatsink on it... interesting!

Re: Thanks Corse, but...
 

This is one of the biggest voodoo's in the touring scene. But simplifying the choose of the insert should be done after answering these questions?

- I have enough traction / I have enough tyre lasting?

NO/YES -> Choose a softer insert
NO/NO -> Choose other suspension settings (maybe, try to softer the suspension to get some chassis roll and get a little more traction).

- I don't have enough traction / my track is bumpy:

YES/YES -> Choose a softer suspension and a softer insert
NO/NO -> Choose a softer insert and raise your chasis (more chassis roll).

In few words: You want more traction, get a softer insert, your tyres last shorter but you have more grip.

If tyre lasting is a problem, try the chassis roll trick.

This is my setup for asphalt.

Front:
Cooper/Red spring/60wt/ piston #2
1º of toe-in in the steering
0º kickup
2º Caster blocks
0º Camber.

Rear:
Blue/silver spring/50wt/piston #2
2º of toe in (by the rear a-arm plate marked by 2-0)
1º Camber

ProLine 1095S3 w/ Yokomo ZR37 inserts

Beware, the car with this setup is pretty fast, but the rear is a little itchy and sometimes breaks loose, but in fact, is very speedier.

If the car is too nervous, you can try to soften the suspension and switching to the 4º degree caster blocks.