I use pressure diaphrams in my TC3 shocks and they make building them even easier than with Yokomo shock caps.

Not going to Florida Tony???

Nope...have some traveling to do with my job....

I'll be heading up to Ripon for the Carpet Nats....ewww...Carpet....I don't do well on carpet!!!! That race will be a learning experience for me....going up there not to do well, but to learn how to set-up for MY driving on carpet!!!!

Tony when is your next planned update on that great site you run/own?
and also
Is ther a big differance in the handling/tweak between the composite/graphite chassis and how durable is the graphite I know it is a bit more fragile but how much?

Any tips/parts to help keep tweak to a minimum? I seem to have a problem in straight line tracking but it also may be my cheapo servo (new one on order by end of month hopefully)

Corse R,

You seem to have missed my bit about F1 earlier.

Have a look and comment.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Yep! I missed quoting them... Some weeks ago I was at Barcelona and went to Montmelo circuit (it's really closer to Barcelona), but, we can't enter, cos some F1 team was doing tyre tests on wet conditions (I don't know if it was Ferrari or Jordan).

Regarding motorcycles... Naaah! I prefeer Superbikes and Superstock (1000cc) clases. This year I enjoy seeing the 4T bikes battling with the 500cc class. If someone seemed that the Superbikes were poweful (>160HP) wait to see some real 4 stroke racing motors on real racing frames.

The first time I changed from a composite to a graphite chassis I can't believe that a swap of chassis can change your setup radically. The composite is a little less rigid and makes the car more docile. I use on bumpy or low grip conditions. The graphite is far rigid and I use it on large tracks with smooth surfaces and/or on high grip conditions.

Regarding the chassis tweak, this can be due to a incorrect tightening of the motor clamp (too tightened). I suffered from this until I removed the blue anodize of the clamp and the cam with a nails file. It doesn't need to be tightened to the full to support the motor. If you have the screw with the spring on the motor clamp you need to compress it up to 5 milimeters or a little less.

Soon, I hope. It's just taking alot more time than I expected. Digi-pix are done, I'm just making a flashy intro... I know, I know, just get the damn info up, right??? ;) Sorry, working on it!

As Corse-R said, graphite chassis is much more rigid and should be used on hi-traction surfaces. Tweak shouldn't be a problem unless the chassis isn't straight...

Tweak: A good servo is always a must-have, in any vehicle. Another tip, make sure you don't have any toe-out on your car. Toe-out helps the car turn in, but makes it wandery (is that a word?) on the straights....

Thanks for all the tips, Tony. Ive been thinking about going back to the composite track for our local parking lot races. Ive even been thinking of milling down the molded bracing in the chassis to get a little more flex. We'll see what happens when I use the stock composite first though.

What is the difference between the D shaped diff rings and the regular diff rings? Any performance advantages? I just got my IRS outdrives in and they are sloted to use the D rings. Just wanted to know if the D rings are worth getting.

Thanks :)

The d shape rings prevent the rings from slipping against the out drives under acceleration.:)

That sounds like its a good thing. I'm going to order me some. Thanks! :)

What was the cost on those outdrive Alan?

Ya, the D ring prevents slipping.

Or, you can just super glue your regular rings (use only a SPOT of glue or you might not make the ring sit flat) to the outdrives. Does the same thing.

They will be about $25