RAL

iTrader: (67)

[QUOTE=robk;6160719]This is called caster

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/californ...ml#post6158159

Now the link is better, check it out and add input yo!

InZane

iTrader: (2)

I think saddle pack lipos is the way to go - neater wiring and better protection for the electronics on the chassis plate. I'm not sure if it has any affects on the handling but I really don't like the asymmetric position of the posts for the upper plate . It makes the right side of the chassis softer than the left. When using saddle packs you can mount the posts parallel instead.

magerp

Does anyone have any tips for reducing front tire wear? (except for not driveing the car. LOL) My front tires didn't last one day. My rear tires look brand new.

TfnG

iTrader: (27)

very good idea. i havent really done anything with mine but build it and let it sit. i had the same thoughts as you though...didnt like the position of the posts...for the same reasons u said.

veecee

iTrader: (34)

It will be interesting to see how that works. There are conflicting views on whether stick packs mounted sideways work better than lengthways. This would be a good compromise.

Nice work on angling back the servo. I decided to use the shorter kit servo saver and angling the servo a little. Zero bump steer!

akura2

Will the body fit with the side pods on it in this configuration?

I wouldn't want to lose the look of the new body and its sculpted sides

veecee

iTrader: (34)

It should. Looks narrower than a stock F104 with component trays, although the packs are further back in the chassis.

PDR

iTrader: (31)

This looks interesting, but how are the packs secured? Don't fancy using tape, since club rules require that LiPo cells are charged in a LiPo sack. Admittedly, it would help with my wiring, particularly the power cap on the GTB.

I'm happy with my 3800mAh NiMH stick pack configuration - the LiPo stick pack I tried didn't fit easily with the standard battery clip, because it fouled with the balance lead.

Has anyone tried one of the LiPo bricks with the side connectors?

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

perhaps that corally/IP Lipo 'stick-a-like' pack would be ideal?

R

alan1467

How is the T Piece secured to the chassis? as it uses a resar post and a screw/nut?

InZane

iTrader: (2)

I'm using the kit nuts (not the nylock ones) to secure the T-bar. The lipo pack slides nicely into place - there's a 0,5mm play between the nut and the pack.



I'll post some more pics whith the electronics mounted and wiring done - it will be super neat!

TfnG

iTrader: (27)

how are you holding the battery in place?

InZane

iTrader: (2)

I'm working on a Calandra like rubber o-ring mount. Shouldn't take more than 15 secs to make a battery change.
This is a pic of a a very much pre-prototype mount ( I know - I cant have a nut under the upper plate) - I will need some kind of stop in front of the lipo pack (not yet ready)..

InZane

iTrader: (2)

There are a lot of nice new option parts for the F104 coming from 3Racing - the upper deck for Lipos is ace!



The all new 3Racing F1-09 looks extremely promising as well