Dan

iTrader: (74)

Any idea which is the softer setup? Just going to install aluminum motor plates on my X1 later on and deciding if I should mess with the T-bar.

Running on asphalt and foams, may switch to rubber in the future.

dfx

I heard that it is softer (side to side) and probably more durable than hi traction T-bar...


Haven't seen any pics yet kit should be out in June/July...

Friulimotosport

Running my f104x1 with tamiya tires and looking to get more rear traction as the car wants to come around to easy. What can I change to get the rear to stick.

Thanks

kb525

Theres many adjustments for many different types of oversteer. Changing weight, grippier tires in the back, more downforce, softer T plate, lighter spring, lighter damper grease. It all comes down to what is causing the oversteer.

aackjw

iTrader: (9)

just wanted share my experience since i saw another x1 model. My X1 is pretty much default setting by manual. At first, almost impossible to drive due to oversteering. tried to play with camber setting to 2 and made some difference but not enough. The last thing i tried was tamiya #53259 F1 3.5mm Offset Upright F103 / F104.
After this item should be 'must-have' to all the 'x1' owner. the result was unbelivable.

aackjw

iTrader: (9)

just wanted to ask experts on f1 setting out there about the issue i've been having from day 1.
1.I tried to rebuild diff several times on my x1 to get that 'smooth' feel. I was never successful. it IS smooth before I lock the nut but as soon as I lock it, it feels bumpy when i turn it by hand. the current setting is 90 degree CCW after full lock. Is there any tip I should remember other than manual? I've been researching this issue since I bought the car and nothing yet.
2. how hard do u guys hit break for tight corner after long straight? I set to fast on my radio for ABS and my car spins every time. Is there any magic for this? My setting is default by manual.
THat's it for now.
Since there's no one around my area running f1 im running at prking lot at night after work alone. Even so I have a blast alll the time. F1 is just freaking cool!!

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

1. Sand the diff plates with 400-600 grit sandpaper. Are you tightening till it won't tighten any further? If you have you likely damaged the diff balls. You want to tighten till the diff doesn't slip. Then tighten 1/8 of a turn at a time till you feel the car drives how you want.

2. Very much depends on your esc/motor/radio. Mine is at around 80% travel on the radio. 100% on esc. Just keep reducing your brakes on the radio till it stops spinning

aackjw

iTrader: (9)

1. right there. that was something always blurry to me. on the manual, it says tighten until it doesnt get tighten. I know one thing I should avoid : over tighten. but I had no idea how much is 'overtighten'. thank you for clearing that up.
2.what do you mean by 80% travel / 100% esc?
Btw thank you for the quick response. I appreciate it.

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

1. To add... To check when the diff stops slipping you hold each half in your hand and try turn the spur with your thumb. If it moves tighten the diff more and try again.

2. I don't know what adjustments your esc or radio has for brake. Just aim for 70-80% brake force

vintage boy

iTrader: (2)

do you have any idea if a 104 pro version 1 can be converted to 104 pro version 2?

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

Nobody has seen the v2 yet. The only information out is exactly what was posted 1-2 pages back. So nobody knows yet if one can be converted to the other.

texastc

iTrader: (2)

its a link chassis, so it will take an entire chassis/motorplate, possibly diff as well.

dfx

Yes, I think that it'll be too expensive (if possible). They say that diff is modified, motor mount from RM-01 ect. It looks like only front end is (or will be) the same as F104 version I...

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

I am running an x1 and just got a f104w gp to use to build a exotek f1ultra.

The t bar is definitely softer on the f104w gp than the high traction t bar from the x1. Since I dont need the bottom chassis/t-bar for the f1 ultra I think I may actually use it on the x1 instead. Should yield more traction. It is also 21 grams lighter than the frp bottom+t bar+carbon reinforced bottom plate

By the way since day 1 I was running my x1 with alloy motor plates. I just switched to the carbon reinforced ones and the car seemed to be faster. setup was approximately 20 grams lighter than all the alloy bits.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Make sure the thrust washers are oriented exactly as the manual says. That can do strange things to the diff action as well.