JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Well Tamiya makes (not sure if it's been released or not) a front A Block/Bridge. So that's why we use the upside down A Block up front with the C Block. Also it's something that Surikarn did. So what a pro does... one must follow.. haha But anyways, it's suppose to give you more steering. It alters the steering geometry alittle.

I'd do what Dave and FUK said for spring. RaySpeed I think are too large. I remember I was gonna try some, but didn't like the fitment of them. Anyways.. Stock setup is a good start. You can even go with Tamiya Whites up front and Blues rear. Again... all depends on track/setup.

jeffreylin

The front C and A block also narrows the front track width a bit. I found the set up very helpful with mid corner and on power steering.

As for the springs. After running this car and EVO3 before it for 7-8 month, I am going full circle back to the stock set up with yellow all around and yellow swaybars. I find this give me the most speed around the corners. I tried stiffer springs but I had to slow down too much for the corners as they do not allow the car to roll enough in turns thus increase the turning radius.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I went to Red Springs all around. I found it was quicker than all Blues that I tried before. Yellow does okay. But I wanted more roll due to the traction situation. Plus a Yellow front sway bar and none in the rear.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

Kilruf

you removed the sway bar in the rear to get more off power steering right?

racer

not sure if any posted this yet, but Kai has released another chassis for the 415. a flat bottom chassis.

Kai 415

weekendracer_uk

That was me at wrexham , that was my very first BRCA national meeting. Sad to say that the 415 will not get used much due to my sponsorship with another make of car.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Actually I started the setup without swaybars. The day was hot and the track alittle slick. I wanted to keep the rear end alittle more planted.. or predictable. I thought about adding a 1mm shim under the rear camber link (that would have done the trick easily). But I opted for the front sway bar first as a test. It worked out. So I left it as is. Basically the rear was alittle unpredictable just after the apex of the turn. I might have been off power alittle too long. I don't remember. But my friend was also fighting a slick rearend on his TC3 that day. Track temp was 140° that day. I was using uhhh Sorex 36R's. But I don't remember if the inserts were Xenon Blues or HPI Greens.

I can't say I was using the box stock setup, but sorta close. I had .7shim up front for some kickup. AE40wt with 3hole piston up front with AE30wt 3hole in the rear. Camber set to -1.5° all around. Droop measured under the arms set for 5.5mm front (measured under the front part of the arm under the hinge pin) and 6mm rear. And arm spacing up front with 2mm to the rear. Rear arms with 2mm to the front.

Now this is all Stock Class. So I'm sure once I go mod racing.. I'll probably be goin to White/Blue Tamiya springs or some AE springs.

Robz

I have read all of your posts about narrowing the front blocks and correct me if im wrong but if you narrow the track width of a car at one end it gives that end less grip. it keeps it a little flatter in a corner but i personally dont think thats what the front end of the 415 needs. That is why i find it strange that people are trying the C/A blocks and narrowing track width.

Has anyone tried the B/D blocks instead. I would be really interested to know what they thought.

Also with the front diff. Has anyone found a method so that you can just change diff without messing about changing dogbones, bearings etc etc. I would like to have a parts list for a diff that could be dropped striaght into the front of the car. I was thinking of making one. With a lathe it cant be that bad to do. Even if it were aluminium to make it easy to machine. Anyone know of any companys that may be willing to oblige. Im sure that they would recieve at least 100 orders (just from this forum)

Hey weekend racer, What is your real name and what sponsorship have you now got. I think you should turn it down and carry on with the trf. I was in the A at the WLRC national. Will i see you at the next. Cant remember wether it is Barham, Aldershot, or snetterton??

Any feelings on the above i would appreciate a reply!

RobZ

FUK_WRX

iTrader: (1)

Looks like same chassis on one of the TRF drivers in the warm up. The pics were posted here somewhere. Someone said it was a chassis from a Tech Racing MY02R Monster.

Jonny Boy

The bridge A block is available, part number is 53685. Ran it last weekend at the BRCA modified national at Snetterton at it was very good.

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Looks like spur gear sizes would be limmited due to the chassis nor being cut out also access to the Pinion would be a pain to get to also because the small opening on the stock chassis is not there too and the chassis is not 3mm also...2.6~2.8mm

-Dave

g4t2

Regarding the pinion on the new Kai chassis, it looks like the top deck is more cut-out and that the pinion would be easy enough to access from the top. Also, I guess that with the chassis being milled instead of cut, that they could allow to go a little thinner.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

The only problem I see with the Kai chassis set is the cost...by the time you buy the chassis set...you could have purchased another 415 or even the Evo-IV

g4t2

Yeah very true, and I'm not sure if it would have any major performance benefits...does look mighty BLING though!lol

Paul_Kultcha

I installed the TRF blue 1degree hubs onto my TRF415, and I noticed there is some play in the hubs now. The bearings can slide in and out of the hubs a bitif you pull or push on the axle.

Anyone else getting play like this? I was going to buy some shims/spacers to take some of this slop out. I know it needs to move a bit to protect the bearings, but I don't think the bearings should shift in and out of the hub like that.