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Old 09-10-2004, 05:48 PM   #3751
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Default Re: TRF 415 Refined version

Quote:
Originally posted by Ralf
Hi Guys,

I have noticed that Tamiya will release a TRF415 refined version in November.

Do you have any details ?
I guess it will be a TRF415 with EVO4 reversible arms and some other stuffs...
maybe lightweight bulkheads? surikarn edition? hehe let the rumors start to fly!
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Old 09-10-2004, 07:32 PM   #3752
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Yeah, it's the Reedy Race Surikarn Edition...
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Old 09-10-2004, 09:19 PM   #3753
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
Yeah, it's the Reedy Race Surikarn Edition...
It would be nice if it came with the Ti screws as well!
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Old 09-10-2004, 11:19 PM   #3754
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Default 49349 TRF415 Refined Chassis

No specs on what's included yet.
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Old 09-10-2004, 11:55 PM   #3755
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Default Re: 49349 TRF415 Refined Chassis

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Originally posted by forty6
No specs on what's included yet.
where can I find out more info on this Refined Chassis
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Old 09-11-2004, 04:08 AM   #3756
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Default Re: Re: TRF 415 Refined version

Quote:
Originally posted by Hebiki
maybe lightweight bulkheads? surikarn edition? hehe let the rumors start to fly!
When monkeys fly from where j/k...
-Dave
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Old 09-11-2004, 06:46 AM   #3757
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Any idea on a price????
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Old 09-11-2004, 09:56 AM   #3758
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
I thought the details were posted a page or so back on the Refined Kit.

John, your 414 looks bad ass!! I also agree with you on the weight issue. Rechargable 9v batteries are also lighter than alki's... You did a good job on that car! Let us know how it handles!

I have the front belt stab. on the way too. So it would be interesting on how it works with the White Belts.
Just came back from testing with the L/W conversion set on my 414. I had already made a modification at the rear end in order to bring the tie rods to a normal length because they were too long.

So on the racetrack initially handling was not to my taste. The car was stable but there wasn't enouph steering. I experimented with different tyre combinations in order to make sure that it was the set up and the result was the same with small variations in behavior.

I changed from yellow to white Tamiya springs in all four corners and I put the front shock on the outer hole of the new susp. arm at the side with the three holes.

The car became almost perfect! It was too stiff for that track because the surface is very bumpy but response, turn in and directional accuracy where very good.

I really enjoyed it. Didn't brake anything although I had some spins but I did not have any major crashes.

Tomorroy if I manage to race I will have more feedback.
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Old 09-12-2004, 02:15 AM   #3759
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Nice 414 John!

I am going to try the LW on a TB02, haha.
Going to sell my spare 415. I am going to list it on ebay if anyone is interested.

Time to build my new 415!
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Old 09-12-2004, 10:35 AM   #3760
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I just came back from today's race. On the L/W conversion I tried this time yellow spings all around. The car was much better over the bumps. I was slower from the main competition especially since I am way behind regarding equipment (bats, motos & esc) but set up wise I am very pleased. I DNF the fitst two finals in the Amain after qualifying 4th. I won the last final unchallenged for the most part. My best lap was half a second slower than 2nd and third place man but I was so consistent that I did not loose my lead. I am saying this because as a conclusion with the new suspension I must say that the car is very crisp on reaction and yet it is very easy to drive.
If only I had more power...

Anyway I want to ask the following:
The C hub carriers up front with the front uprights and the rear uprights are really bad. Not that I broke anything, which I did not, but there is so much slop in them. The wheel axles move too much inside the 950 bearings. After reading some of the privious posts I am confused. Which is the best way to fix this? Should I replace them all with HPI parts and if so which parts? Whould I see an improvement with HPI parts? From previous posts I understand that Squat bearings are the best.
Also would Xray parts fit well, because they use the largest bearings which give great accuracy and durability.

Your help is highly appreciated.
Thanks
John.
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Old 09-12-2004, 11:38 AM   #3761
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Which Rod end can I use instead of the tamiya ones? There is too much slop with the regular ones.
Who makes some which fits with the tamiya ball stud, maybe RPM????

Thanks
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Old 09-12-2004, 05:58 PM   #3762
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Hi -

I asked this before a couple of pages back. Nobody wanted to help me, so I found my own solution.

Use the HPI 4.3 mm ball studs meant for the Pro 4. After that, you can use RPM ball cups for a perfect fit. After the switch, I have ZERO slop in the steering. They make two lengths, 10.3 mm and 13 mm. The HPI part number for the 10.3 mm is 75115.

I also made a conversion in the back, and almost no slop there.

You would think that a company known for high quality plastic manufacturing, such as Tamiya, would at least get their tolerances right. About the only disappointing thing with the car.

I was almost tempted to sell my 415, since the slop didn't fit such an expensive car. But now the problem is fixed, except for the ball cup at the top kingpin - this is the only place that has slop.

Hope this helps you out...

Dave
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Old 09-13-2004, 03:53 PM   #3763
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Default Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles

Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles - anyone tried these on their 415?

They seem a lot cheaper than the tamiya item.

I have a problem when I try to adjust the turnbuckles they pop off from the ball collars - anyone got a solution, threadlock maybe?

Thanks
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Old 09-13-2004, 04:10 PM   #3764
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Quote:
Originally posted by F1Junkie
Hi -

I asked this before a couple of pages back. Nobody wanted to help me, so I found my own solution.

Use the HPI 4.3 mm ball studs meant for the Pro 4. After that, you can use RPM ball cups for a perfect fit. After the switch, I have ZERO slop in the steering. They make two lengths, 10.3 mm and 13 mm. The HPI part number for the 10.3 mm is 75115.

I also made a conversion in the back, and almost no slop there.

You would think that a company known for high quality plastic manufacturing, such as Tamiya, would at least get their tolerances right. About the only disappointing thing with the car.

I was almost tempted to sell my 415, since the slop didn't fit such an expensive car. But now the problem is fixed, except for the ball cup at the top kingpin - this is the only place that has slop.

Hope this helps you out...

Dave
Interesting solution there Dave, I might have to look into that one. I tried putting a drip of C/A glue in the tamiya cups, and that seemed to cure it for a while, however, they are starting to slop again. For now I've tried putting some of the Tamiya AW High wear greese (the stuff that come with the kit in the small tub) on each of the ball studs, and I'm goin to see if that helps. It may work, it may not....

Ballsie, I'm running Lunsford Ti turnbuckles on my steering arms, after I badly bent one of the alu ones in a crash, they seem a perfect fit for the ball cups, and I haven't had any more bending I haven't needed to replace the alu camber link ones, I have a feeling that alu for the steering links was a little weak.
With regard to the poping off ball cups, sounds like either the cups have too much play, or the turnbuckle is too tight in the cup. Try pushing down hard on both ends onto the ball studs when adjusting the turnbuckle. Failing that take off the turnbuckle and grind it in further than you would have it set, should add more screw thread inside, making it easier to adjust.

HiH
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Old 09-13-2004, 06:02 PM   #3765
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Greetings everyone,

Tryhard: I switched to titanium steering turnbuckles also because they bent on a clipped corner barrier.

Has anybody tried using the Evo III susp. blocks B and D in the rear without spacers and with aluminum hubs?

On another note, I've bent susp. blocks in fairly small crashes. I'm guessing that having the susp. blocks up on spacers is causing weak points along the susp. blocks. I figured that if the susp. blocks were flat on the chassis there wouldn't be a huge center space, and hence, reduce the potential for bending. I know the Evo III blocks are about 1mm higher than the 415, so not using spacers would put them about the same hieght off the chassis as the 415 blocks.

Any suggestions or experiences are welcome
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