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Old 05-24-2004, 09:02 PM   #2221
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That's like a 6.8 ratio. I tried that with a 104 spur and 33 or 34 pinion and it was a dog. Now I'm using a 112 spur as well. I think the spur just hangs out the bottom.. if that. Might even be level with the chassis. I'll probably switch off to a 110 spur though when I can get a new one. Anyways, the magic number here for me is 7.1 final. 104 with a 32 pinion. I like using 6.9 final with a Monster stock tuned with rpm instead of torque. However I ran a Fuk/Mako Monster Stock this past weekend with a final of 6.3.... I won. So who knows, each motor has it's own personality I guess.
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Old 05-24-2004, 09:08 PM   #2222
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Quote:
Originally posted by rtypec
Hey guys, here's a little tip for the Hi Torque servo saver. While assembling, cut out a piece of plastic from a parts bag (e.g. a bag that motor brushes come in, spare parts, etc. ) and trim it so that it's about 2-3mm wide and approximately 7-10mm long. Then you fold it over itself two to three times. Right before sandwich the springs in with the top piece, try to cram the folded plastic plastic into the area with the notches. Then put the top piece on, then the black plastic washer piece, and then screw it onto the servo itself. This should take care of most slop and it's a free fix.

At the world's last year, I wanted to run a servo horn that I found at the Tamiya track (okay, I didn't find it at the track and it wasn't a tamiya part, it was an xray horn, but I said that I didn't know what brand it was and I found it at the track so does that make it a tamiya part? hehe) but I was called on it so I had to switch to the Hi Torque Servo Saver. This little tip kept the steering slop free.
So thats what you did Rod I'll have to remember that next year if I go back.
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Old 05-25-2004, 12:18 AM   #2223
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Thumbs up Spool & Center One-way Drivetrain

Ran the car with a spool & center one-way drivetrain setup two fridays ago at my LHS asphalt track and it handled preety good despite having a center one-way pulley. Track layout was a technical type of layout with medium bite/traction. Ran the car the 1st time w/orig drivetrain setup and car carried to much speed when entering the turns (can't use brakes w/that setup). Switched the front w/the spool I got from SpeedTech, change to softer springs in the back and the car was stable but still missing something in terms of traction.

Will try next to switch sway bars to soft (red) F/R, blue/yellow springs. Guys at my track normally don't run swaybars on their cars & if some do, it's only up front. Gearing on my car for a monster stock was 102/37 (motor was too hot after a run) then switched to 102/34 (didn't have a 35 pinion gear).

Going back the the spool/center one-way setup drivetrain, the result was better compared to the front one-way. Didn't use my brakes the whole run. Car didn't carry too much speed when entering the turns & was like a rocket upon exit. I think I might just stick with that drivetrain setup and see if it will also work with 19 spec motor.

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Old 05-25-2004, 05:38 AM   #2224
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Default 415 understeer

Hi everyone...must say a great 415 forum going on here!!

I was wondering if anyone can give me a few tips to dial out corner entry understeer and improve initial steering response/turn in. I'm running on tarmac but its quite tight and not a huge amount of grip. Currently running -
Springs - Blue F 45w ,Yell rear 35w
No spacer under front or rear axle bars
Shock pos 1 Front pos 4 rear
2.5 toe in rear and 0.5 toe out front
One way front diff
C1 hub on left C2 on right
Std 4deg castor
CS22 tyres.

Any help would be appreciated and sorry if the information above is a bit vague.
Cheers,
Neal.
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Old 05-25-2004, 06:18 AM   #2225
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Default Re: 415 understeer

Quote:
Originally posted by NealP
Hi everyone...must say a great 415 forum going on here!!

I was wondering if anyone can give me a few tips to dial out corner entry understeer and improve initial steering response/turn in. I'm running on tarmac but its quite tight and not a huge amount of grip. Currently running -
Springs - Blue F 45w ,Yell rear 35w
No spacer under front or rear axle bars
Shock pos 1 Front pos 4 rear
2.5 toe in rear and 0.5 toe out front
One way front diff
C1 hub on left C2 on right
Std 4deg castor
CS22 tyres.

Any help would be appreciated and sorry if the information above is a bit vague.
Cheers,
Neal.
Hi Neal,

You might want to try...
* changing the ackerman - if you connect the steering tie rod to the hole closest to the front of the chassis, this will provide more steering response
* Shortening the Wheelbase
* going to a blue spring in the rear and standing up the front and rear springs. I don't know which position is 1 or 4 so I am not sure where you are running the shocks.
* If you increase the rear droop this will give you a quicker turn in response when off power.

Hope this helps.

Martin Crisp
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Old 05-25-2004, 06:20 AM   #2226
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Hi Martin, See ya Thursday at the Reedy Race, have a safe trip. CYA,Scotty
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Old 05-25-2004, 06:25 AM   #2227
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Default Reedy

Hey Scotty

I am sooo looking forward to this race.....cya there.
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Old 05-25-2004, 06:42 AM   #2228
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Hi Martin,
thanks for the info much appeciated...
I'm running the shocks at present fully inboard at the front and on the outer most hole at the rear.
Cheers,
Neal.
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Old 05-25-2004, 06:45 AM   #2229
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Default Front Wheel Chatter with Spool

Hey,

For those of you running a spool with the 415, are you getting a lot of front wheel chatter when you turn the wheels like KilRuf refers to earlier in this thread.

Has anyone figured out how to get rid of this. I spent the better part of a day yesterday to get rid of this and was not successful. Like KilRuf, I noticed that moving the front arms back and going with toed out hinge pins helped the inside wheel because the universal did not have as much of an angle to deal with. But you need to balance that out with the outside wheel, as this setup will add more angle to the outside wheel depending on how much ackermanyou are running.

I worked on the universals themselves to make sure they had a smooth action when the wheels are turned. I noticed that with the wheels off the car everthing is very smooth, but when you add the rotating weight of the wheels this enhances the vibration and causes the chatter.

I notice that with a one-way there is zero chatter and with a normal diff there is only a hint of it at the extremes. I am not really sure why this happens mainly with the spool. I even disconnected the universal from the outdrive on one side so that only one of the front wheels/universals was connected to the drivetrain. I did this to see if it was somehow the "locked" aspect of the spool that caused the problem.

I am stumped with this one...anyone else have any ideas?
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Old 05-25-2004, 06:54 AM   #2230
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Quote:
Originally posted by NealP
Hi Martin,
thanks for the info much appeciated...
I'm running the shocks at present fully inboard at the front and on the outer most hole at the rear.
Cheers,
Neal.
Hey Neal,

Thanks. With the shocks layed down the front end feels lazy and less responsive. Layed down shocks have a softer and more progressive effective spring rate. Thus the initial turn in will feel lazy. However this layed down shock will give you more steering through the rest of the corner then a stood up shock tower.
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Old 05-25-2004, 08:53 AM   #2231
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Hey Martin, wait until you hear it on the track...is that a body rubbing? When I first installed my spool with new universals, the chatter was very noticeable and I could not find a way to get rid of it. However after a couple of weeks, it went away because the axles were getting worn in from the pins. I just installed new universals for this weekend's race and I'm looking forward to going "crrr-tha-tha-tha" around corners I know it's not good but I've gotten used to muting that sound out of my head.

To all of those travelling here, please have a safe trip and we'll see you in a couple of days.
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Old 05-25-2004, 10:16 AM   #2232
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Hi Martin, I wonder if you have your wheel shaft shimmed? I had the same problem when I changed the front geometry to the inboard toe out. Since that effectively made your front end narrower, the shims I originally had in between the wheel axle and the steering block was binding and eventually destroyed the bearing inside the steering and stripped the inside of the block. Once I took the shims out (and replaced the broken parts) everything was smooth again.
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Old 05-25-2004, 10:45 AM   #2233
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Default Spool Chatter

Rod,
Glad to know I am not the only one with this issue. The thing that worries me is the drain on the battery. The amp draw spikes way up when we have this extra drag. I know what you mean about already broken in universals. When I build a new univeral I always use the old pin as it has already been broken in. A completely new universal just does not work.

My flight leaves early on tuesday. I hope to arrive in la la land mid afternoon your time. I think some folks were talkn' about going go-karting on wed night.

jeffreylin

I do shim my universals betwen the wheel adapter and the bearing. I thought this might have been binding things up, so I removed the shims, but had the same result. The only thing I have not replaced is the bearings in the steering kunckle. I was planning on trying that tonight.

cya
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Old 05-25-2004, 12:58 PM   #2234
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Default chatter

Martin,
The reason your wheels chatter is due to the universal shafts. Even though manufacturers claim that they are CVD (Constant Velocity Drives) there not. So when you steer, the wheel axle must accelerate and decelerate four times for every one rotation of the axle in order to equal the rotation of the out-drive and dog bone. The spool obviously does not absorb this effect and the weight of the wheel and tire acts like a flywheel which significantly magnifies this in the form of the chatter you refer to. This is also why you don’t notice it when you remove the wheels and tires. When using a diff or one-way, these units absorb the chatter, hiding the problem.

The best thing to do is to make sure your spool has no wear grooves, and that the dog bone and universals are well lubed. Also, try to adjust the suspension arms so that the drive-shafts are as straight as possible or even swept back slightly. This will reduce the angle of the universal at full lock at the inside wheel. The inside wheel is almost always carrying the greatest angle due to Ackerman. Doing this will compromise your set-up as it effects weight distribution and wheelbase.

Good Luck!
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Old 05-25-2004, 03:06 PM   #2235
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Default Can some one post a picture of the spool

Can someone kindly post a picture of the spool, im curious how it looks like.

Thanks,

Luie
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