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Old 11-24-2006, 10:28 AM
  #16531  
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Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
Has anyone done the following modifcation of fitting the tech racing 18t pully with the 36 t pullys to reduce the fdr to 2 I done with the mre belts but,
I am just wondering if anyone knows what belt size you need to fit the tech racing 18t pully with some adjustment. The mre belt do fit but a tight on the slackest setting. The belt lenghts for the mre are 180 rear and 504 on the front i am thinking of using 182 rear and 506 on the front to stop them being tight.
I have 3racing 17t TA05 center pulleys in my conversion (the pulleys come 16,17 and 18 in bag). With MR rear belt it works fine and there is still adjustability left, but the MR front belt has to be in the loosest position and it is still a bit too tight for my liking. No way could fit 18t with the MR front belt!
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Old 11-24-2006, 01:48 PM
  #16532  
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I removed the rear stabilizer bar and put the red springs on the rear. I also moved the rear shocks to hole 3 on the damper stay and moved the rear turnbuckles to the first hole on the rear knuckle/hub and set the rear camber to 1.5. What a difference, mind you the track had quite a few runners on it so the driving line had some grip. Car was handling heaps better. Going to also try some 2mm shims under the front suspension mount 1B as I heard this will help the steering in the front.
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Old 11-24-2006, 04:58 PM
  #16533  
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Default want to convert to MRE from MSX

Hi Guy's
I want to convert my MSX into a MRE.
Can some one please give me all the part's and number,s, I need to do the job.
Thanks Guy's
Addam
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Old 11-24-2006, 07:24 PM
  #16534  
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Originally Posted by TRFMAD
Hi Guy's
I want to convert my MSX into a MRE.
Can some one please give me all the part's and number,s, I need to do the job.
Thanks Guy's
Addam
To be honest by the time you find the parts and pay shipping you will be near the mre's $420 (us dollars) price point,,,get the kit it comes with a body and your msx will make a good parts car
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Old 11-24-2006, 07:29 PM
  #16535  
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Originally Posted by LBSR415
To be honest by the time you find the parts and pay shipping tou will be near the mre's $20 (us dollars) price point,,,get the kit comes with a body and your msx will make a good parts car
Plus my understanding is the chassis are drilled differently up front becuase of the way the steering is on the MRE ...I don't know this for a fact ..I own 3 MRE's ...never had on MSX.
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Old 11-24-2006, 08:28 PM
  #16536  
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Someone please tell me what is the size of the bearing inside rear diff?thz
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Old 11-24-2006, 08:55 PM
  #16537  
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Originally Posted by TRFMAD
Hi Guy's
I want to convert my MSX into a MRE.
Can some one please give me all the part's and number,s, I need to do the job.
Thanks Guy's
Addam
You could get it almost to MRE specs, without the newer steering. Otherwise you would need a new chassis and top deck, and the only thing you would be keeping is the bulkheads, shock towers, shocks, and suspension.
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:06 PM
  #16538  
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Originally Posted by TRFMAD
Hi Guy's
I want to convert my MSX into a MRE.
Can some one please give me all the part's and number,s, I need to do the job.
Thanks Guy's
Addam
Just purchased the following on a recent trip to HK to do the job:
4024004 MRE Upper Deck
9404668 MRE Lower Deck
9804266 MRE Steering Posts
3454396 Steering Bridge
9808066 Steering Arm

2x 3x42mm turnbuckles and 1x 3x23mm turnbuckle. All the parts totalled around AU$120. Good luck mate.
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:07 PM
  #16539  
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Don't you need the upper heatsink plate for the rear bulkheads?
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Old 11-25-2006, 04:43 AM
  #16540  
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Originally Posted by Tek Nickal
Don't you need the upper heatsink plate for the rear bulkheads?
Why would you NEED it ? The only essential parts to get a MSX to handle like a MRE is the steering, which requires the parts that have been listed by veecee. The rest will not affect handling.

Then maybe the TA05 pulleys to get the drivetrain upgraded, but I'd put the rear heatsink 3rd on my list (don't forget you also need the alloy bearing holders for that!!!) and the rest, like the alloy wheel axles, on the not to get list.

But then again, on my car I have all the above (well not exactly the same drivetrain, mine is better ) except the steering as I don't want it.
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Old 11-25-2006, 09:47 AM
  #16541  
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Originally Posted by TRF415boy
Why would you NEED it ? The only essential parts to get a MSX to handle like a MRE is the steering, which requires the parts that have been listed by veecee. The rest will not affect handling.

Then maybe the TA05 pulleys to get the drivetrain upgraded, but I'd put the rear heatsink 3rd on my list (don't forget you also need the alloy bearing holders for that!!!) and the rest, like the alloy wheel axles, on the not to get list.

But then again, on my car I have all the above (well not exactly the same drivetrain, mine is better ) except the steering as I don't want it.
why what is beter on your drive train
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Old 11-25-2006, 10:23 AM
  #16542  
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TRF415boy ,
You are correct regarding the aluminium (gold coloured) axles. They aint worth buying , I have put the black axles on my MRE because 1 of the gold axles just fell apart whilst on track.
Also arent the rear hubs a little lower with the MRE.
To be honest since I bought my MRE and gave my MSX to my younger son I havent gone anywhere near as well with it. Younger son may wake up with an MRE one day.
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Old 11-25-2006, 05:32 PM
  #16543  
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Originally Posted by Tek Nickal
Don't you need the upper heatsink plate for the rear bulkheads?
Like TRF415boy said, you don't need it if you are running the TA05 setup. Although it does look pretty damn nice...
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Old 11-26-2006, 01:50 AM
  #16544  
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Originally Posted by veecee
Like TRF415boy said, you don't need it if you are running the TA05 setup. Although it does look pretty damn nice...
Veecee, have you run the car with the new steering setup yet? How does it feel back to back withe the std setup?
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Old 11-26-2006, 02:30 AM
  #16545  
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Quick question for you guys, I am running my two MSX's, one for outdoors and one for in, I have a problem that the car does not transition as qucikly as I would like in the corners, I have noticed that everyone seems to be running a lot harder shock oil on there set-ups than me, I am currently running 45f and 35r, whereas everyone else seems to be running 60wt f+r.

1 How can I get the car to transition quicker in the corner, but still feel safe?
2 Does Heavier shock oil make that much difference?
3 If so will I have to run a lighter spring than what I am currently running?
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