1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...
Tech Apprentice
Hey all. Quick question. I've read that you need to grind down the Tamiya F104 "rubber" wheels to properly fit Pit tires. Does that include the inner and outer ridge so the wheel is basically "smooth"? Any pictures would be helpful too.
These are the wheel type I have:
https://www.google.com/search?q=tami...vidX_VRLDQPwM:
These are the wheel type I have:
https://www.google.com/search?q=tami...vidX_VRLDQPwM:
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
Hey all. Quick question. I've read that you need to grind down the Tamiya F104 "rubber" wheels to properly fit Pit tires. Does that include the inner and outer ridge so the wheel is basically "smooth"? Any pictures would be helpful too.
These are the wheel type I have:
https://www.google.com/search?q=tami...vidX_VRLDQPwM:
These are the wheel type I have:
https://www.google.com/search?q=tami...vidX_VRLDQPwM:
Tech Apprentice
To use the rubber tire wheels you would need to completly remove all the ribs on the rims so they are completly smooth and still round. It can be done but its more work than its worth.
Mark
Tech Apprentice
Thanks that's what I thought. I guess I'll grab the dremel and see how tedious it is before waiting 2 weeks on new wheels.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Actually, you only need to remove the OUTER ribs on the Tamiya wheels to mount the Pit Shimizu/TCS tires. If you leave the INNER ribs, it will give the inner bead some support and help you accurately locate the tire on the rim.
A pair of TOENAIL clippers actually has almost the exact radius of the wheels and will make short work of removing the outer ribs. Then if you want, you can clean it up with an emery board.
The TQRC site shows it as well here: https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...w.asp?p_id=824.
Scroll down and look at the pics.
Good luck!
A pair of TOENAIL clippers actually has almost the exact radius of the wheels and will make short work of removing the outer ribs. Then if you want, you can clean it up with an emery board.
The TQRC site shows it as well here: https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...w.asp?p_id=824.
Scroll down and look at the pics.
Good luck!
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Does anyone have info info on the following Ride tyres
#26040: GR F-1 fronts
#26041: GR-X F-1 fronts
#26042: GR F-1 rears
The Ride site has them as high grip tyres so does this mean they are pretty much same as the 26030 and 26031 preglued?
I was racing on the weekend and was swapping between the 26030/26031 Rides and Pits. Frustrating having to adjust ride height for every change of brand.
Hoping these are a grippier version of original Rides which will make swapping tyres a much easier process.
#26040: GR F-1 fronts
#26041: GR-X F-1 fronts
#26042: GR F-1 rears
The Ride site has them as high grip tyres so does this mean they are pretty much same as the 26030 and 26031 preglued?
I was racing on the weekend and was swapping between the 26030/26031 Rides and Pits. Frustrating having to adjust ride height for every change of brand.
Hoping these are a grippier version of original Rides which will make swapping tyres a much easier process.
Im not sure why these tires companies are either so lazy in writing some marketing spiel on how much better their latest and greatest are, or so secretive on their tire technology and just basically telling us to shut up and use it.
Tech Apprentice
Actually, you only need to remove the OUTER ribs on the Tamiya wheels to mount the Pit Shimizu/TCS tires. If you leave the INNER ribs, it will give the inner bead some support and help you accurately locate the tire on the rim.
A pair of TOENAIL clippers actually has almost the exact radius of the wheels and will make short work of removing the outer ribs. Then if you want, you can clean it up with an emery board.
The TQRC site shows it as well here: https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...w.asp?p_id=824.
Scroll down and look at the pics.
Good luck!
A pair of TOENAIL clippers actually has almost the exact radius of the wheels and will make short work of removing the outer ribs. Then if you want, you can clean it up with an emery board.
The TQRC site shows it as well here: https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...w.asp?p_id=824.
Scroll down and look at the pics.
Good luck!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
Hey all. Quick question. I've read that you need to grind down the Tamiya F104 "rubber" wheels to properly fit Pit tires. Does that include the inner and outer ridge so the wheel is basically "smooth"? Any pictures would be helpful too.
These are the wheel type I have:
https://www.google.com/search?q=tami...vidX_VRLDQPwM:
These are the wheel type I have:
https://www.google.com/search?q=tami...vidX_VRLDQPwM:
Actually, you only need to remove the OUTER ribs on the Tamiya wheels to mount the Pit Shimizu/TCS tires. If you leave the INNER ribs, it will give the inner bead some support and help you accurately locate the tire on the rim.
A pair of TOENAIL clippers actually has almost the exact radius of the wheels and will make short work of removing the outer ribs. Then if you want, you can clean it up with an emery board.
The TQRC site shows it as well here: https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...w.asp?p_id=824.
Scroll down and look at the pics.
Good luck!
A pair of TOENAIL clippers actually has almost the exact radius of the wheels and will make short work of removing the outer ribs. Then if you want, you can clean it up with an emery board.
The TQRC site shows it as well here: https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...w.asp?p_id=824.
Scroll down and look at the pics.
Good luck!
I just bought a set of 26040 and 26042 and hopefully test them out this weekend. My initial finger squishing test tells me they are a harder compound to the Pit Shumizu 571/572 combo and very similar to the previous XR tires. The wheels however SEEM to be a of much better quality and should take a couple of hits unlike the XR.
Im not sure why these tires companies are either so lazy in writing some marketing spiel on how much better their latest and greatest are, or so secretive on their tire technology and just basically telling us to shut up and use it.
Im not sure why these tires companies are either so lazy in writing some marketing spiel on how much better their latest and greatest are, or so secretive on their tire technology and just basically telling us to shut up and use it.
I just bought a set of 26040 and 26042 and hopefully test them out this weekend. My initial finger squishing test tells me they are a harder compound to the Pit Shumizu 571/572 combo and very similar to the previous XR tires. The wheels however SEEM to be a of much better quality and should take a couple of hits unlike the XR.
Im not sure why these tires companies are either so lazy in writing some marketing spiel on how much better their latest and greatest are, or so secretive on their tire technology and just basically telling us to shut up and use it.
Im not sure why these tires companies are either so lazy in writing some marketing spiel on how much better their latest and greatest are, or so secretive on their tire technology and just basically telling us to shut up and use it.
You're right in regards to the 26040 and 26042 being pretty much the same as the old XR's or just a tad softer for the rear. Might be the newer flexible rim helping with that though. The 26041(GR-X) are supposed to be a little bit firmer than the XR though.
Think I will use the 26040/26042 as my replacements for the XR's and still use the Pits for cooler days.
Yes! a bit more clearer description wouldn't go astray.
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Eh, I like to try new things, esp F1 tires for some reason. If they dont work out at least the yellow sidewall sticker would match my paint job.
Tech Regular
I had some trouble I couldn't explain, until I opened my diff. The ceramic was were damaged, there was a lot if dirt in there. Our circuit is next to the off road track at our club, it's always dirty. So, I messed about a bit with FreeCAD and the 3D printer at our office:
It's not perfect, yet, it's too close to the side movement damper, but it's a start...
Cheers,
Hugo
It's not perfect, yet, it's too close to the side movement damper, but it's a start...
Cheers,
Hugo
I had some trouble I couldn't explain, until I opened my diff. The ceramic was were damaged, there was a lot if dirt in there. Our circuit is next to the off road track at our club, it's always dirty. So, I messed about a bit with FreeCAD and the 3D printer at our office:
It's not perfect, yet, it's too close to the side movement damper, but it's a start...
Cheers,
Hugo
It's not perfect, yet, it's too close to the side movement damper, but it's a start...
Cheers,
Hugo
Now combine your previous project with this one and make it ultra lightweight, and fit any f1.
Go for a Clamp shell design made of lexan, and you have a winner
Lighter and thinner, even sellable...
Did I mention more subtle...