Tamiya TB-02
01-04-2008, 09:22 AM
#1921
I had 2 Tb-02's before this. One using normal stock shaft and the other with the Tb evoIII lightweight prop. shaft . And yes the lightweight shaft is longer than the stock. I did compare it.
To bad is sold the kitt (the one with the longer shaft).i save bevel wear on this one.
My blue shaft is one its way
To bad is sold the kitt (the one with the longer shaft).i save bevel wear on this one.
My blue shaft is one its way
01-04-2008, 09:56 AM
#1922
It is interesting that I have never stripped a bevel gear in my TB-02, even after many many parking lot races, of course we don't use wood barriers, we use the road-rail system or no barriers at all, just the paint on the parking lot and dots on the corners.
I think the trick to help prevent stripped bevels is to have your bevels and ring gears properly shimmed, I also put a little bit of tamiya ceramic grease on my diff gears as well, and I think the real trick is to try and get your chassis as stiff as possible (i.e. center SSG, and the CF front brace.). Wish tamiya make a Carbon composite tub for the TB-02 like the do with the TA-05, that would help a lot.
I wish Tamiya made a shaft system similar to the one on my TB-EVOIV (3 pieces), this would take care of any stripping problems. I think the lightened EVOIII shaft also helps.
I think the trick to help prevent stripped bevels is to have your bevels and ring gears properly shimmed, I also put a little bit of tamiya ceramic grease on my diff gears as well, and I think the real trick is to try and get your chassis as stiff as possible (i.e. center SSG, and the CF front brace.). Wish tamiya make a Carbon composite tub for the TB-02 like the do with the TA-05, that would help a lot.
I wish Tamiya made a shaft system similar to the one on my TB-EVOIV (3 pieces), this would take care of any stripping problems. I think the lightened EVOIII shaft also helps.
01-04-2008, 10:14 AM
#1923
It is interesting that I have never stripped a bevel gear in my TB-02, even after many many parking lot races, of course we don't use wood barriers, we use the road-rail system or no barriers at all, just the paint on the parking lot and dots on the corners.
I think the trick to help prevent stripped bevels is to have your bevels and ring gears properly shimmed, I also put a little bit of tamiya ceramic grease on my diff gears as well, and I think the real trick is to try and get your chassis as stiff as possible (i.e. center SSG, and the CF front brace.). Wish tamiya make a Carbon composite tub for the TB-02 like the do with the TA-05, that would help a lot.
I wish Tamiya made a shaft system similar to the one on my TB-EVOIV (3 pieces), this would take care of any stripping problems. I think the lightened EVOIII shaft also helps.
I think the trick to help prevent stripped bevels is to have your bevels and ring gears properly shimmed, I also put a little bit of tamiya ceramic grease on my diff gears as well, and I think the real trick is to try and get your chassis as stiff as possible (i.e. center SSG, and the CF front brace.). Wish tamiya make a Carbon composite tub for the TB-02 like the do with the TA-05, that would help a lot.
I wish Tamiya made a shaft system similar to the one on my TB-EVOIV (3 pieces), this would take care of any stripping problems. I think the lightened EVOIII shaft also helps.
lucky guy
01-04-2008, 03:34 PM
#1924
Just got my 1st TB-02 today... looking forward to building it tonight. Useless post, I know, but I own one now so I figured I would let the world know. Tamiyas rock 
01-04-2008, 07:07 PM
#1925
Your at the right place...you can ask us anything about your new ride
01-05-2008, 04:47 PM
#1927
Thanks guys.. I read quite a bit on here to prepare myself for any surprises beforehand. It's finished now, pretty straight forward build. I've built a TA04-R & a 414 M2 in the past couple of years, but this is the first shaft car I've built since the TA02. I like the simplicity. I found it amusing & ironic that the kit had two extra diff gears & bevels, after reading all of the talk of stripping them. It really must be bad.
The one thing I'm not crazy about is the diff assemblies. They feel "wobbly" to me, for lack of a better word... like the resistance is sort of "on & off". This is a very slight inconsistency, but I would think they should feel smoother. Is it just me & my lack of experience with the car, and this is how they should feel... or did I overlook some grey area by chance? Maybe they aren't tight enough. The long skinny bolt that connects the two diff cups & holds the spring is protruding out of the lock nut just barely... maybe 0.5mm. I was afraid to overtighten.
Other than that, I couldn't be happier for the kit considering what I paid. I cant wait to try it out tomorrow at the track!
The one thing I'm not crazy about is the diff assemblies. They feel "wobbly" to me, for lack of a better word... like the resistance is sort of "on & off". This is a very slight inconsistency, but I would think they should feel smoother. Is it just me & my lack of experience with the car, and this is how they should feel... or did I overlook some grey area by chance? Maybe they aren't tight enough. The long skinny bolt that connects the two diff cups & holds the spring is protruding out of the lock nut just barely... maybe 0.5mm. I was afraid to overtighten.
Other than that, I couldn't be happier for the kit considering what I paid. I cant wait to try it out tomorrow at the track!
01-05-2008, 07:27 PM
#1928
You need evo III diff halves all around or the evo III diff halves in the back with a front one-way. The stock diff halves, as you have found out, are garbage.
01-05-2008, 08:54 PM
#1930
I didn't really have a problem with my diffs...they just felt tight then loose when you spun them. From other cars I have owned...I know thats not how a diff is supposed to feel. After the evo III diff halves....its smooooth.
01-07-2008, 11:24 AM
#1932
Nice. I haven't had time to drive mine more than a couple of minutes yet... still need to get the susp dialed. Didn't have the spare time to tweak it yesterday at the track, like I'd hoped 
01-12-2008, 04:40 PM
#1934
This car drives soooo good.... it's basically box stock & it has totally neutral hadling. I added 5mm wider rear spindles & 6mm front hubs(instead of the stock 4mm hubs), in order to properly fit a 200mm HPI WRC body(I sold the Porsche Carrera GT body first thing). I'm using a trusty Sport-Tuned Mabuchi, & I have tires to suit just about any surface type & temp. I dialed in some aggressive camber, but otherwise running every other setting bone stock. Honestly, this is one of the best "stock kit" cars that I've driven... I'm very surprised that I'm just now driving one of these so late into the game. I should have converted back to shaft drive a long time ago! The simplicity is great.
Just went out for a little bit of testing with my bud who also just bought one, & we're a bit surprised to find that his car is slightly tail-happy, although both cars are built almost exactly the same. Even with the same tires, his wants to step out slightly under hard acceleration when exiting a corner, but my car is glued. We have the same gearing(stock 19 + 58), same controllers + settings(Futaba 3PJ-Super), same servos(JR 126MG), same ESC(Novak XRS), and same motors(black can mabuchi). Does anyone know what he might have done diffferently on setup that we might have overlooked? We've already experimented with diff tightness, & different bodies... same outcome, he has slight oversteer on hard throttle. I'm not sure where he set his droop screws, but mine are at 2.5mm as the manual advises. Thanks in advance for any suggestions...
Anyway, here's some pics of the wider hubs/axles & 200mm Impreza body installed. Yokomo wheels & slicks are on it in these pics, and I have yet to install the rear wing...
Just went out for a little bit of testing with my bud who also just bought one, & we're a bit surprised to find that his car is slightly tail-happy, although both cars are built almost exactly the same. Even with the same tires, his wants to step out slightly under hard acceleration when exiting a corner, but my car is glued. We have the same gearing(stock 19 + 58), same controllers + settings(Futaba 3PJ-Super), same servos(JR 126MG), same ESC(Novak XRS), and same motors(black can mabuchi). Does anyone know what he might have done diffferently on setup that we might have overlooked? We've already experimented with diff tightness, & different bodies... same outcome, he has slight oversteer on hard throttle. I'm not sure where he set his droop screws, but mine are at 2.5mm as the manual advises. Thanks in advance for any suggestions...
Anyway, here's some pics of the wider hubs/axles & 200mm Impreza body installed. Yokomo wheels & slicks are on it in these pics, and I have yet to install the rear wing...
01-12-2008, 10:03 PM
#1935
Looks good mep. Tell your friend to make sure he has the droops screws at the manual setting. Also, what's aggressive camber? Never go past -2 if you want your tires to wear evenly and have the tires contact the ground all the way when you turn. The TB-02 is a great car stock...but once you upgrade it with some basic hop-ups, you have a great track car that can keep up pretty well.
Also, with the plastic shocks...one hole pistons with 80wt shock oil is a good starting point. Make sure your friend built his shocks properly too.
Also, with the plastic shocks...one hole pistons with 80wt shock oil is a good starting point. Make sure your friend built his shocks properly too.