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Old 01-04-2008, 10:22 AM   #1921
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I had 2 Tb-02's before this. One using normal stock shaft and the other with the Tb evoIII lightweight prop. shaft . And yes the lightweight shaft is longer than the stock. I did compare it.

To bad is sold the kitt (the one with the longer shaft).i save bevel wear on this one.
My blue shaft is one its way
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:56 AM   #1922
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It is interesting that I have never stripped a bevel gear in my TB-02, even after many many parking lot races, of course we don't use wood barriers, we use the road-rail system or no barriers at all, just the paint on the parking lot and dots on the corners.

I think the trick to help prevent stripped bevels is to have your bevels and ring gears properly shimmed, I also put a little bit of tamiya ceramic grease on my diff gears as well, and I think the real trick is to try and get your chassis as stiff as possible (i.e. center SSG, and the CF front brace.). Wish tamiya make a Carbon composite tub for the TB-02 like the do with the TA-05, that would help a lot.

I wish Tamiya made a shaft system similar to the one on my TB-EVOIV (3 pieces), this would take care of any stripping problems. I think the lightened EVOIII shaft also helps.
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Old 01-04-2008, 11:14 AM   #1923
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It is interesting that I have never stripped a bevel gear in my TB-02, even after many many parking lot races, of course we don't use wood barriers, we use the road-rail system or no barriers at all, just the paint on the parking lot and dots on the corners.

I think the trick to help prevent stripped bevels is to have your bevels and ring gears properly shimmed, I also put a little bit of tamiya ceramic grease on my diff gears as well, and I think the real trick is to try and get your chassis as stiff as possible (i.e. center SSG, and the CF front brace.). Wish tamiya make a Carbon composite tub for the TB-02 like the do with the TA-05, that would help a lot.

I wish Tamiya made a shaft system similar to the one on my TB-EVOIV (3 pieces), this would take care of any stripping problems. I think the lightened EVOIII shaft also helps.


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Old 01-04-2008, 04:34 PM   #1924
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Just got my 1st TB-02 today... looking forward to building it tonight. Useless post, I know, but I own one now so I figured I would let the world know. Tamiyas rock
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Old 01-04-2008, 08:07 PM   #1925
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Your at the right place...you can ask us anything about your new ride
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Old 01-04-2008, 08:45 PM   #1926
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Originally Posted by mep View Post
Just got my 1st TB-02 today... looking forward to building it tonight. Useless post, I know, but I own one now so I figured I would let the world know. Tamiyas rock
make sure you got extra shim for the drivetrain before the 1st run.
if dont wanna strip anything, just for cautions.
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Old 01-05-2008, 05:47 PM   #1927
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Thanks guys.. I read quite a bit on here to prepare myself for any surprises beforehand. It's finished now, pretty straight forward build. I've built a TA04-R & a 414 M2 in the past couple of years, but this is the first shaft car I've built since the TA02. I like the simplicity. I found it amusing & ironic that the kit had two extra diff gears & bevels, after reading all of the talk of stripping them. It really must be bad.

The one thing I'm not crazy about is the diff assemblies. They feel "wobbly" to me, for lack of a better word... like the resistance is sort of "on & off". This is a very slight inconsistency, but I would think they should feel smoother. Is it just me & my lack of experience with the car, and this is how they should feel... or did I overlook some grey area by chance? Maybe they aren't tight enough. The long skinny bolt that connects the two diff cups & holds the spring is protruding out of the lock nut just barely... maybe 0.5mm. I was afraid to overtighten.

Other than that, I couldn't be happier for the kit considering what I paid. I cant wait to try it out tomorrow at the track!
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:27 PM   #1928
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You need evo III diff halves all around or the evo III diff halves in the back with a front one-way. The stock diff halves, as you have found out, are garbage.
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Old 01-05-2008, 09:07 PM   #1929
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i never had problem with the stock diff. just dont over tighten .
try looking for the front 1 way, this way you only have to watch out for 1 diff only.
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Old 01-05-2008, 09:54 PM   #1930
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I didn't really have a problem with my diffs...they just felt tight then loose when you spun them. From other cars I have owned...I know thats not how a diff is supposed to feel. After the evo III diff halves....its smooooth.
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Old 01-06-2008, 05:07 AM   #1931
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hey guys, my problem for the stripping bevel is gone.
just by adding extra plastic shim and extra bearing to the end of the spur.
And also i change the pin to the end hole of the shaft.

this save my $$$$

take a look
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Old 01-07-2008, 12:24 PM   #1932
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Nice. I haven't had time to drive mine more than a couple of minutes yet... still need to get the susp dialed. Didn't have the spare time to tweak it yesterday at the track, like I'd hoped
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Old 01-09-2008, 11:07 AM   #1933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KREATOR1 View Post
hey guys, my problem for the stripping bevel is gone.
just by adding extra plastic shim and extra bearing to the end of the spur.
And also i change the pin to the end hole of the shaft.

this save my $$$$

take a look

Results.

After running 3 packs on my Tb02 with this modification , i found out that my rear bevel slipping

This is an example not to do.... beware... caution

i really really need a longer shaft
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Old 01-12-2008, 05:40 PM   #1934
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This car drives soooo good.... it's basically box stock & it has totally neutral hadling. I added 5mm wider rear spindles & 6mm front hubs(instead of the stock 4mm hubs), in order to properly fit a 200mm HPI WRC body(I sold the Porsche Carrera GT body first thing). I'm using a trusty Sport-Tuned Mabuchi, & I have tires to suit just about any surface type & temp. I dialed in some aggressive camber, but otherwise running every other setting bone stock. Honestly, this is one of the best "stock kit" cars that I've driven... I'm very surprised that I'm just now driving one of these so late into the game. I should have converted back to shaft drive a long time ago! The simplicity is great.

Just went out for a little bit of testing with my bud who also just bought one, & we're a bit surprised to find that his car is slightly tail-happy, although both cars are built almost exactly the same. Even with the same tires, his wants to step out slightly under hard acceleration when exiting a corner, but my car is glued. We have the same gearing(stock 19 + 58), same controllers + settings(Futaba 3PJ-Super), same servos(JR 126MG), same ESC(Novak XRS), and same motors(black can mabuchi). Does anyone know what he might have done diffferently on setup that we might have overlooked? We've already experimented with diff tightness, & different bodies... same outcome, he has slight oversteer on hard throttle. I'm not sure where he set his droop screws, but mine are at 2.5mm as the manual advises. Thanks in advance for any suggestions...

Anyway, here's some pics of the wider hubs/axles & 200mm Impreza body installed. Yokomo wheels & slicks are on it in these pics, and I have yet to install the rear wing...





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Old 01-12-2008, 11:03 PM   #1935
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Looks good mep. Tell your friend to make sure he has the droops screws at the manual setting. Also, what's aggressive camber? Never go past -2 if you want your tires to wear evenly and have the tires contact the ground all the way when you turn. The TB-02 is a great car stock...but once you upgrade it with some basic hop-ups, you have a great track car that can keep up pretty well.

Also, with the plastic shocks...one hole pistons with 80wt shock oil is a good starting point. Make sure your friend built his shocks properly too.
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