Tekin RS ESC sensored
02-24-2011, 10:44 AM
02-24-2011, 10:46 AM
BL-DL: Brushless motor, forward with reverse delay. Both forward and reverse are enabled, with a delay going from forward to reverse. This is the safest for your transmission if you wish to have reverse.
02-24-2011, 10:47 AM
Hey Robert, what's going on?
A few things I noticed. Your rollout is close to what I run in 10.5. You should be able to pull another tooth or two and find a couple tenths.
I have never run a Novak motor but from what I understand, they have a lot of physical timing in them. I hear people actually run negative timing in them in boost classes like the LRP I run (-10 timing) so back the physical timing down.
Drop the boost a bit. Try about 40.
If all else fails, call me from the track and tell me what it's doing. I'll get you straight, haha.
A few things I noticed. Your rollout is close to what I run in 10.5. You should be able to pull another tooth or two and find a couple tenths.
I have never run a Novak motor but from what I understand, they have a lot of physical timing in them. I hear people actually run negative timing in them in boost classes like the LRP I run (-10 timing) so back the physical timing down.
Drop the boost a bit. Try about 40.
If all else fails, call me from the track and tell me what it's doing. I'll get you straight, haha.
N..... claims their motors are all set to 30 but they are not. They set their motors by amp draw and then put a sticker on it and call it 30 degrees due to the fact that that particular motor "should" pull x amps at x volts at 30 degrees. So if a motor has less wire on it or wound better or better rotor it will cause it to be a different amp draw. Very poor way of setting it. First thing I do with those motors is pull them apart, align the sensor then peel the sticker and realign it to where 30 degrees of physical timing is. Then it lets me compare one to the next better.
EA
02-24-2011, 10:47 AM
no
02-24-2011, 11:00 AM
N..... claims their motors are all set to 30 but they are not. They set their motors by amp draw and then put a sticker on it and call it 30 degrees due to the fact that that particular motor "should" pull x amps at x volts at 30 degrees. So if a motor has less wire on it or wound better or better rotor it will cause it to be a different amp draw. Very poor way of setting it. First thing I do with those motors is pull them apart, align the sensor then peel the sticker and realign it to where 30 degrees of physical timing is. Then it lets me compare one to the next better.
EA
EA
02-24-2011, 11:01 AM
That's why you haven't heard from me to order more stuff
Let me know though, might be able to swing it.
02-24-2011, 11:05 AM
I have someone that has made me a jig that you can put on the endbell of a Novak motor and set it to a true 30 degrees of physical timing so that you can have a good starting point with all of your motors. Trying to come up with a way to do it on all motors with one jig but not sure if we will be able to or not do to different mounting patterns.
EA
EA
02-24-2011, 01:16 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
EA is like a rocket scientist.. a car rocket scientist. Or a rocket car scientist. 
02-24-2011, 04:33 PM
The LRP motor with -10 insert is still at around 30-32 degrees of timing. You can get a rough idea by looking the sensor alignment in regard to the stator. If the sensor is lined up with the edge of the stator then its right around the 30 degree mark.
N..... claims their motors are all set to 30 but they are not. They set their motors by amp draw and then put a sticker on it and call it 30 degrees due to the fact that that particular motor "should" pull x amps at x volts at 30 degrees. So if a motor has less wire on it or wound better or better rotor it will cause it to be a different amp draw. Very poor way of setting it. First thing I do with those motors is pull them apart, align the sensor then peel the sticker and realign it to where 30 degrees of physical timing is. Then it lets me compare one to the next better.
EA
N..... claims their motors are all set to 30 but they are not. They set their motors by amp draw and then put a sticker on it and call it 30 degrees due to the fact that that particular motor "should" pull x amps at x volts at 30 degrees. So if a motor has less wire on it or wound better or better rotor it will cause it to be a different amp draw. Very poor way of setting it. First thing I do with those motors is pull them apart, align the sensor then peel the sticker and realign it to where 30 degrees of physical timing is. Then it lets me compare one to the next better.
EA
02-24-2011, 05:12 PM
Ah...Forgot about that rule. Its dumb though as none of the N motors are set near the same on the motors by physical timing. Just amp draw. Guess you can start looking at endbells to see where they are preset in relation to the solder tabs. Ones that have more timing in them already should be better as you'll end up with more physical timing. 
EA
EA
02-24-2011, 06:57 PM
I think I've suffered this problem after adjusting my motor timing. Where on the rotor is the sticker being placed?
02-24-2011, 07:44 PM
02-25-2011, 03:04 AM
02-25-2011, 11:14 AM
Hey guys, I just recieved a used Tekin RS in the mail and it smells smokey.
Is it toasted or did this guy use the box to hold some weed?
Is it toasted or did this guy use the box to hold some weed?
02-25-2011, 11:16 AM