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Old 02-24-2011, 11:44 AM   #19771
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Reverse

how do you set this up so there's a delay between brake and reverse using 212 ?
http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire_rs.html
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:46 AM   #19772
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looks like I need to use this then

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BL-DL: Brushless motor, forward with reverse delay. Both forward and reverse are enabled, with a delay going from forward to reverse. This is the safest for your transmission if you wish to have reverse.
is the delay programmable?
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:47 AM   #19773
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Hey Robert, what's going on?

A few things I noticed. Your rollout is close to what I run in 10.5. You should be able to pull another tooth or two and find a couple tenths.

I have never run a Novak motor but from what I understand, they have a lot of physical timing in them. I hear people actually run negative timing in them in boost classes like the LRP I run (-10 timing) so back the physical timing down.

Drop the boost a bit. Try about 40.

If all else fails, call me from the track and tell me what it's doing. I'll get you straight, haha.
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Just looked at your set-up again. 30 deg of physical timing on a Novak motor! There's the problem. 0 or even neg for boosted classes. That will have you flying.
The LRP motor with -10 insert is still at around 30-32 degrees of timing. You can get a rough idea by looking the sensor alignment in regard to the stator. If the sensor is lined up with the edge of the stator then its right around the 30 degree mark.

N..... claims their motors are all set to 30 but they are not. They set their motors by amp draw and then put a sticker on it and call it 30 degrees due to the fact that that particular motor "should" pull x amps at x volts at 30 degrees. So if a motor has less wire on it or wound better or better rotor it will cause it to be a different amp draw. Very poor way of setting it. First thing I do with those motors is pull them apart, align the sensor then peel the sticker and realign it to where 30 degrees of physical timing is. Then it lets me compare one to the next better.

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Old 02-24-2011, 11:47 AM   #19774
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:00 PM   #19775
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N..... claims their motors are all set to 30 but they are not. They set their motors by amp draw and then put a sticker on it and call it 30 degrees due to the fact that that particular motor "should" pull x amps at x volts at 30 degrees. So if a motor has less wire on it or wound better or better rotor it will cause it to be a different amp draw. Very poor way of setting it. First thing I do with those motors is pull them apart, align the sensor then peel the sticker and realign it to where 30 degrees of physical timing is. Then it lets me compare one to the next better.
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Thanks that's good information to know.
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:01 PM   #19776
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I'll have to email you when we are going down to Horsham next time. There is life north of the belt way? Trying to get Chuck out also.
I have been wanting to go up there but I'm out of work again

That's why you haven't heard from me to order more stuff

Let me know though, might be able to swing it.
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:05 PM   #19777
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Thanks that's good information to know.
I have someone that has made me a jig that you can put on the endbell of a Novak motor and set it to a true 30 degrees of physical timing so that you can have a good starting point with all of your motors. Trying to come up with a way to do it on all motors with one jig but not sure if we will be able to or not do to different mounting patterns.

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Old 02-24-2011, 02:16 PM   #19778
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EA is like a rocket scientist.. a car rocket scientist. Or a rocket car scientist.
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Old 02-24-2011, 05:33 PM   #19779
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The LRP motor with -10 insert is still at around 30-32 degrees of timing. You can get a rough idea by looking the sensor alignment in regard to the stator. If the sensor is lined up with the edge of the stator then its right around the 30 degree mark.

N..... claims their motors are all set to 30 but they are not. They set their motors by amp draw and then put a sticker on it and call it 30 degrees due to the fact that that particular motor "should" pull x amps at x volts at 30 degrees. So if a motor has less wire on it or wound better or better rotor it will cause it to be a different amp draw. Very poor way of setting it. First thing I do with those motors is pull them apart, align the sensor then peel the sticker and realign it to where 30 degrees of physical timing is. Then it lets me compare one to the next better.

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I can't move the sticker in VTA
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Old 02-24-2011, 06:12 PM   #19780
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I can't move the sticker in VTA
Ah...Forgot about that rule. Its dumb though as none of the N motors are set near the same on the motors by physical timing. Just amp draw. Guess you can start looking at endbells to see where they are preset in relation to the solder tabs. Ones that have more timing in them already should be better as you'll end up with more physical timing.

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Old 02-24-2011, 07:57 PM   #19781
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yep, a couple of guys from my local track were using novaks and went to them at the birds and all the do is put a sticker on the rotor so it doesnt short out
I think I've suffered this problem after adjusting my motor timing. Where on the rotor is the sticker being placed?
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:44 PM   #19782
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I think I've suffered this problem after adjusting my motor timing. Where on the rotor is the sticker being placed?
dont know but i will see them in 2 weeks so i can ask
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Old 02-25-2011, 04:04 AM   #19783
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EA is like a rocket scientist.. a car rocket scientist. Or a rocket car scientist.
And rocket on the track!!!!
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:14 PM   #19784
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Hey guys, I just recieved a used Tekin RS in the mail and it smells smokey.

Is it toasted or did this guy use the box to hold some weed?
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:16 PM   #19785
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Hey guys, I just recieved a used Tekin RS in the mail and it smells smokey.

Is it toasted or did this guy use the box to hold some weed?
Only way to find out is to try it. He might of just blown the cap, or it could be toast.
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