The axles and hubs have been an issue for some time. We have spoken with TM about the materials factor for a year now. To help everyone out we are stepping up to the plate.

The hole in the plastic hubs is not too big when the hubs are new. The issue is that the material "cold flows" This means that as the bearing is banged around the hole gets larger in at least one direction. We have checked many hubs on Optical comparators and CMMs to verify this. The simple solution is to glue the bearings into the bores. CA works the best but if you are doing this a day ahead of time you can also coat the bore with Loctite 242 or shoe goo. You need to put the adhesive in the bore before putting the bearing in or else you risk gluing the bearing into a solid. We have tested this many times and it works very well. It is also a way to salvage a hub that has become sloppy.

The reason for the new axles was not an issue of slop (the shims take care of that) but more importantly width. The intent was twofold. As it comes the nominal width of the E4 is 185mm. Adding shims under the wheels is one way to make the car wider but causes durability issues. (The reason why Barry lost a wheel in practice at IIC was that he had so many shims spacing the wheel out that there was no plastic covering the pin. Once he got up to speed the O ring couldn't retain the pin so the entire assembly came apart). The new axles come in Titanium for strength and 7075 Aluminum for economy and weight reduction (less than2 grams each). But the best part is that the drive hexes come in varying widths from -.25mm (for wide foam wheels at ROAR events) to +.75 (for Trans Am fronts to bring them out closer to 200mm) This will allow you to tune with front and rear track width and really balance the car. The other reason is that really hate "fussing" (not the word I really mean) with the O ring to take the axles apart.

The hubs and caster blocks are also in response to providing something that is not available anywhere else. The rear hubs are available in 0 and 1 degree toe angles. The front caster blocks are available in 3, 6 and 8 degree angles. We also have plans for 4 and 5 degree blocks if there is a demand. One of the great features is that the caster blocks are hard anodized. This gives them a very tough wear resistant pin bore that will make them last much longer than what is now available.

Please be aware that these are completely new designs. They are similar to TM parts only in the areas that require them to fit the existing car. There are also two other factors that make these special to us. First is that they are made in the USA and second the price is aimed at being less than what is available now.

The big question you are all asking is WHEN????? The answer is now...sort of. There have been many delays in these parts that are just beyond our control. Three hours from now I should be doing the final check on the parts at the machine shop and releasing them to the platers. We will get them by Tuesday and ship as soon as they arrive. They will be on the web site by Monday but the photos will be of unplated parts until Wednesday. The titanium parts are not plated.

To set the record straight Dave did not use the prototype parts at the Nationals. I did bring them along to show him and for him to take home for more testing. I did use the 0 degree rear hubs for my rubber car to cope with the tires they speced for the race.

Wolf Hobbies is very pleased to announce that Marcos Jennings has joined our "family" of team drivers. Most of you already know him as a regular contributor on this forum. but for those of you that do not know him he is a truly excellent driver, setup person and without a doubt one of the nicest people in R/C. He works very hard at developing his car but always finds the time to assist anyone that needs help. We are pleased that he has decided to join us and to be our "point man" in the Southeast. Welcome aboard Marcos!!

Thanks for the kind words Wolf:nod: I'll be posting some new set ups by sunday or monday for outdoor rubber asphalt.

Lipo's in the E4
 

Hey guys...

a mate just bought one and it the one where the batteries are loaded in via the bottom.

Our question is.... how and/or what type of lipo can be fitted in. We dont want to get the dremel out just yet.

I have an intellect hard case and it is just physically too big

Any suggestions appreciated

Stangas

Shim the deck 3mm as per the instructions and break out the dremel on the front pulley block protrustion, trim up the top deck between the middle rear screws for the battery leads to exit (I cut out the middle of the top deck plate right back to where the factory hole/s were), and you can neatly fit in a Thunderpower 40C 5000mAh hard case Lipo. You won't go back to anything else once you put in the 15 minutes of effort to fit this fantastic Lipo pack. In the unlikely event that you stuff up the modifications, spares are readily available. I can post photos of my mods if you'd like.

Cheers,
Simon

I have the 3Racing 3700 hard case in mine. Its a tight fit, but no dremmel or shims required.

xlx

Here is another set up that I got over the weekend. I will be trying out other things on thursday and if the car gets better I will post them.

How can I get 3° for the rear toe angle?
I can get max 2,5°.

:)

you need the onboard toe set at 1.5 then use the K factory 1.5 degree rear hub, or the Wolf Hobbies Rear hubs that will be available soon.

Hey Marcos, set up looks close to mine only a couple changes. What kind of track are you running on?we run on a track that is prepped with soda. i am running the team magic 13lbs spring all the way around with no swaybars. When you shim up the fron roll center in the rear, what does that accomplish. Something i was going to try 1mm all the way around, but never got to it.

Are you going to be attending reedy this year?

I have the e4-fs and recently i bought a speed passion ver 2 motor ( 4t ) to put to the car.
The spur gear is 112 and it seems that i cant put a pinion gear lower than 25 because the motor is touching the rear belt .
Is that normal or the motor is bigger than the other motors.

hi memix

change the spur gear,i used 69 OR 75 in 45DP(110 IN 64DP AGAINST HOMETOWN)

best regards
olivier

It gives the car more foward traction. I'm going to try 1mm all around the front and rear this week and see what it does, I can't make it to the reedy race this year (running low on funds:))

Go to a 114 spur and see, with the E4's you will need an assorment of spur gears due to the limited room that you have for motor movement.

If I remember correctly with the E4 we are limited to a range of teeth between 140 and 150. So if you add 112 spur and 25 pinion together you get 137 teeth total which is outside the range. You need to find your ratio within in the range of total teeth for proper motor adjustment.

Go to a 116-118 spur and then you'll be able to get the ratio you want for you 4T. I ran a 4.5 on carpet this winter geared at 116/24-25 with no fit issues.

Socko

Im sorry I forgot ,we run on asphalt and we also treat our track with soda.

Thanks to Jonny Socko for the reminder. This has been mentioned a few times but the thread is getting so large it is really hard to backtrack through the whole thing.

There have been a lot of questions about pulleys. Not all of it has been accurate. There are two internal ratios used on the E4s. The E4FS uses the 1.8 internal ratio and all of the others use the 2.0. The E4FS uses 34 tooth pulleys on the diffs and 18 tooth center pulleys. All the rest use 35 tooth pulleys on the diffs and 17 tooth center pulleys. All the cars use 17tooth side pulleys. Side pulleys and center pulleys are not interchangeable.

The manual has an error on the part number for the 17 tooth center pulley. The correct part numbers are as follows:

503155 35 tooth diff pulley
503201 34 tooth diff pulley
503197 17 tooth side pulley
503222 18 tooth center pulley
503236 17 tooth center pulley

There has also been a lot of talk about mixing and matching pulleys to compensate for belt stretch. We have tried this and have not had any good results.

Umm... I think my E4 has a 35 and a 17 for a 2.0588 internal. But I didnt count the teeth on them. So please tell me Wolf, since we are running it 4.2 final its important that I know if all my small pullies are 17 teeth or not.
geez man I sure hope it is 35/17. I have the E4 C1 optimized for rubber.
Thanks in advance Wolf.

.

If you have the C1 optomized for rubber ,then you should have the 2.0588 internal ratio with the 35/17 combo

Wolf,

Got a few questions for you. Sent you a PM.

Socko

:D ty...

hi

I have create a setup sheet interactive for e4rs 09


E4RS09_Interactive.pdf

Hmm,,, issues getting it .. what happened ?
Kewl tho.!

what?

the interactive set up sheet .. ty.
I had issues getting it for some reason.. but I got it now .

It is simply a blank sheet,that can be modified by checking or filling in acrobat

soooo...again when are the new hubs and driveshafts coming out wolf?? or anyone else that may know?? dave...socko...weezy...anyone???

Had a great of practice today, made very small changes to my previous set up, just took out the rear sway bar and added a little more camber in the rear (-2.5) the car was really good with the 4.5 mod motor and very good with the 13.5. Ran the jaco blues ( our hand out tire for our state series and rp 36's. the car was a little loose with the jacos with the 36's the car was better. I also tried 1mm shims under the front and rear arms , the car reacted left to right alot better but was not faster. I went back to the arms flat on the chassis except in the front of the rear arm , i kept the 1mm shim in the front of the rear arm.

Looks like your back running some touring again.:D I'm actually looking to start back into touring after my almost 2 year layoff. Are electric 1/10th scale track is just not up to par so I'm going back to touring.:nod: Should be running in a few weeks.

Marcos when you say the car reacted better from left to right are you talking about the initial turn in. I will post my setup and try the shims under the roll centers this friday. I ran car last friday on the carpet and it was sooo consistent. i will post that setup as well. i was running jaco blues on carpet and rp36 on asphalt.

yes it had better turn in, but the car wa faster and more consistant with the arms flat on the chassis.

weezy you have a MP

So uh... How much droop are yall lettin' out for carpet and whhere are you measuring it ?

carpet droop 4 front and rear
I measure at the end of the lower arm

i put my car on 10mm blocks and measure over ride height. We have a tight indoor track and i was trying some different things i was running 3mm over rh in the front and 2 over rh in the rear.

nocife was that a pm? I didnt get one, so maybe try again

PM=private messages

Looks like they are available now :)

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/Products-...ies_Parts.html

Trans Am 4mm over ride height front and rear
Mod foam touring 2mm front, 3mm rear

I measure at the end of the arms also when the car is on blocks.

My hard drive crashed so I'm still rebuilding everything. I'm hoping to have set up sheets by the end of the week or early next.

Marcos, are you using warmers on asphalt or just tire compound?

Socko