hey wolf any word on the one piece axles..and the hubs???

Great tip. Thx

Not really. The thought has crossed my mind! I don't have cad, but it would be easy enough to replace the the 2 17T outer gears with beveled gears and a shaft with beveled gears on the ends. Best of both worlds input shaft for motor response and front and rear pulleys for smoothness. It would only take a couple shims to make it tighter or looser on the shaft ends.

Good idea! I hadn't thought of that. I'll give it a whirl tonight.

any chance on getting a set up for indoor carpet on foams and a out door set up

Here is one for outdoor asphalt , sorry but i cant help with the foam set up :)

Smyka, you have PM.

liljohn, most of the issue is due to the plastic tub of the JS. Both my RS and FS are pretty 'free' with no extensive work. Could they be more efficient, sure. The side belt pulleys are too small and the centers are too. As is my cars and Dave Ehrlich's are pretty good for efficiency.

Will you be attending the Trans Am Nats next month? I will be there with my E4RS. Stop by and I'll show you everything I've done with my car.

Congrats to Dave on his A main finish at the Carpet Nats. Wish I could have been there to make it two E4s in the main.

Socko

I'm trying to talk my wife into it Jonny. We'll see. I think If I had just picked up an RS instead of a JS in the first place, life would have been much better.

I think a spacer under the layshaft might be a good starting point though as it would add slack to both the center and front belt and take the tweak out of the front lay shaft. If this solves it, I'm going to be extremely happy. Then I'm going to recommend that someone put out full size shims for that front shaft holder (or just ignore the placement pins). The next logical step if the spacer works would be to replace the two cast pins with set screws to adjust the for the required depth depending on shim height or maybe just to hold the shims in place. if the front belt is perfect and the center too loose initially after shimming, that's fine, then I'd actually be able to use the center belt tensioner.

Next question is, will Dave Ehrlich be attending the Reedy Race? I want to but the wife is still out of work, so no travel for me. :cry:

Yes I'll be at the Reedy Race!!! I hope you can make it!!

i got my E4 back up and running , i will be working on some asphalt set ups next week. i will post them as a soon as i get them ready.

I have a NIB E4RS for sale if anyone is interested

Hey guys,

I recently purchased a team magic e4 and currently i am setting up. I was wondering what spur and pinion i should use if i wanted a lot of acceleration but a lower top speed as i race on a track that is technical and has a lot of 180 degree turns (or close to that). I run a 540 can. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Francis

A 540 can is pretty genaric. What wind motor is it? Who made it ? What are the dimensions of your track? What battery are you using ? Let me know and I would be happy to help.... :tire:

Part # 30 5315 (X-Ray)

setup outdoor wet damp

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/team...ie20090329.pdf

i have finish 2 at the french nats championship to monaco whis e4rs09

pictures and resumes:


http://teammagice4.blogspot.com/

BEST REGARDS
OLIVIER GREMILLET

Well the track we race on was originally a tennis court so just imagine 2 tennis court and you have the dimentions. It has a green and yellow lead and is made by tamiya. I also run with a HPI ESC and a 3600 intelligent battery. By the way i don't understand what the wind of the motor is. Anyway thanks for the help!

Francis

Ok.... sounds like you have a Kit motor (Spec. Stock) I have found that they are very reliable motors. If your internal ratio in the car is 2.0588 like mine is, I recomend starting out with a 50 tooth pinion and a 96 tooth spur gear.
That will give you a 3.95 final ratio. Then what you will need to do is take the temperature of the motor through the slot in the can and try to keep the comutator below 180 degrees ferenheight. You want better acceleration rather than top speed with that motor so do not over gear it or you will lose spring tention and performence. Also try to keep the sum total number of teeth of the 2 gears between 146 and 153 teeth.:tire:Good luck my friend!:eek:

It has been far too long since I have logged on to answer some of the questions on this thread. To make it easier for people to respond without having to repost long quotes I will break my posts into individual issues.

Snowbirds:

I want to congratulate all of the E4 drivers for their efforts and results. And thank all those that chose to run the E4 instead of just following the crowd. we met a lot of people there but one that stands out is Ryan Cooper. He is just an amazing talent. Great Driver, Great setup man, and great all around guy. He really is the type of person that people in the RC industry are looking for to give sponsorships to. After meeting him and seeing him drive we couldn't wait to offer him a sponsorship. We predict great things in his future in R/C and want to help him on his way to being a headliner. Getting into the A-Main at Snowbirds is something we all would like to be able to accomplish. Not only did Ryan get there he made it look easy. Welcome aboard Ryan.

We would also like to congratulate "the Mikes" (Fischer and Pease) for their efforts. They had more than their share of hard luck but hopefully it counts as paying their dues for future Snowbirds visits.

Major congratulations go to Dave Ehrlich. He made the show in both of his touring car classes and finished 6th in each main. We are always in awe of Dave's driving and setup skills and consider ourselves EXTREMELY lucky to have him on board. In the last few months we have made tremendous advances in developing the E4 product line. None of this would have been possible without Dave's efforts and your support. We want to thank all of you that buy from us instead of spending your money offshore for making it financially possible to continue the development work that has made this car a contender with any top level car available. With your continued support we will continue to reinvest in this platform to get it to the top of the podium.

thanks guys for posting your setups i will let you know if i come up with anything else to try

very interested in trying this car..do they make a foam version as well as the rubber version?
i currently run losi...but i am on the verge of hating horizen period.
i have been doing a bit of research on this car and would like to make it my next!!!!

is the team looking for any other product testing drivers...?

please pm me with information.
thx for reading..

matt morris

ygpm

What's the point of using the axle? Does it do away with the slop? :confused:

Thanks.

The xray axles are not what corn was talking about. While at snowbirds they were trying new axles which were the normal 2 piece axles. Took all the slop out of the car. Wolf and dave are working hard on producing parts for the car, and they have helped the car out alot. From what i hear be patient and there should be parts soon. :nod:

Wolf thanks for the kind words. ill be in contact for the reedy race. Lets get a bunch of e4's up there. later y'all

will the new front spool fit in the js? im sure it does but just want to make sure and does anyone have a good setup for E4js running T/A? i need indoor carpet and outdoor asphalt

Thanks in advance

If I can get an editable setup sheet to work I'll post my current Trans Am and mod foam setups.

Mr. Pease,
You have PM

Ehrlich,
Answer your PM foo!

Socko

Sorry to inform you but all that slop in my car is due to the bearing holes being too big for the bearings. The slop you are refering to is taken up once the wheel is bolted on. There has to be atleast .005" too much gap and the bearings float around in the uprights. Changing the axels will not fix my slop issue. Its the plastic, not the metal.

Give me your email and I can send one to you

That honeycomb axel has a threaded hole instead of a threaded bolt for wheel attachment. All you would need is a 4mm button head screw and nothing sticks out if the center of the wheel. :tire:

The aluminum one way/solid axle does fit in the JS. I have the unit in both of mine as a one way. You'll need the out drives also.

John

thanks again liljohn.....man im gonna owe you a case of beer before its all overwith

:lol: The carbon shock towers work nice too.

The JS is by far the best handling car I've driven for TA. Some day I will figure out how to free it up as much as needed, then look out.

So I guess the solution would be the K-Factory aluminum front sterring block and the rear hub?

K factory seems to be the answer for most if not all the issues with the car .
I love that front carbon upper bumper K2109. ,,, and the alu. mid block.

Sorry john i didnt put all the info. When i was at snowbirds with wolf he and dave were running the new proto type aluminum 0* rear hubs. They also were running the new axles. soi dont know if the k factory hubs solve it, but the ones wolf is making will take the slop out.

No wonder you told me before "for a serious racer it requires a few extra parts. Expensive parts." :D

Im still deciding on what to get for 13.5 brushless racing on low budget, can you more or less put me on one side of Hot Bodies Cyclone S tub chassis v/s E4 JS tub chassis kits ?. Downhere in Chile we have a TM importer but he is 100% on nitro and if i go E4 i will go alone same thing on Cyclone S.

thanks,

Pat

so when exactly are these parts going to be available?? im waiting..are they going to be avail before reedy???