eddie -you may have worn a couple of teeth on the belt?


might put ceramics in drive train... anybody else try it?

Are you absolutely sure the side belt is skipping ?
I had thought one of mine was skipping to but it turned out that the rear diff was making a funny noise and slipping. If you make sure its not that and all of your pulley teeth are clean it may just be time for a new belt. Try either the new one from Wolf Hobbies or the HPI #748. The Diff makes king of a chirp noise when it skips. The belt tends to be more of a bump. Does this happen while driving ? Can you really hear it while on the track? Or are you loading it up in your hand? Curious....

I didn't use ceramics but I did soak them all in Denatured Alcohol then re-oiled them with Royal Oil. That helped a lot . But the biggest improvement was shimming up the mid-block about 1mm to loosen the front belt. Mine was so tight you could play a tune on it. LOL No seriously.... it was tizite!

Hey John are you coming down to the ROAR Nationals at Frederick in October? If so I will more than likely catch you their. I for this Nationals I'm lucky it is so close as I'm still 85 miles or so away.:lol:

I hadn't thought about it but anythings a possibility.
I've not been traveling much lately BUT...
I hope all my updating is done before then.
Indoor ? Paved ? got any pics ?

Depending where your at in MI it would be a I guess a 10 hour ride or so. Last time I was up your way I was about 10 years old and we went to visit my uncle in Flint. I think it took as roughly 9 hours or so from Harrisburg PA area. Harrisburg is roughly 1 hour from Frederick MD.

Ok its time to post about the E4FS rubber setup car with the one way that I just received. I traded a friend of mine for it. Car is brand new and never been run (just built). Now I read almost every page on this forum and not sure about all the other cars but mine is bone stock out of the box. I checked out the Wolf site and everything matches up with the E4FS with the One Way setup that is listed for rubber racing and has the 2.0588 reduction.

Ok It took me all but 2 minutes to figure out how to fit the DUO brushless motor in this car. I did put in the Tekin and will lightly sand the back of the chassis at the endbell on a bevel so the motor will fit perfectly and will make it better for the DUO motors as well. Still very minimal sanding needed and will be a 5 minute job to make look factory. The best thing so far is when I put the wheels on this car it is so free compared to my TC5 and some of my other 2 belt touring cars and this is will stock belts and the bears not being cleaned out at all.

After going over this car for just 10 minutes I very confident that it will work great for me. I did notice with the stock springs and oil it is a little bit too soft of a setup but not a big deal. Just super happy with what I see so far.

I looked at the car before I traded for it and didn't notice half the stuff that I did since it is mine.:D Can't wait to get it on the track in the next week or two.:D:nod:

Sounds like the guy who built that car was a pro...:D

He did a great job.;):D

[QUOT

E=wyd;6167135]He did a great job.;):D[/QUOTE]

Hi Wesley r u racing at hobby town this month for the ctcs race ? Long time no see later joey

Hi Wesley r u racing at hobby town this month for the ctcs race ? Long time no see later joey[/QUOTE]Not sure if you mean me but if so I'm not Wesley.

Not sure if you mean me but if so I'm not Wesley.[/QUOTE]
Sorry bud my bad
:confused:

Well my E4FS is getting closer to getting ready to run. I have not been in too much of a hurry as I want to make things right from the start. I been messing with the battery fit and have it down to the battery I want to run so I now I have that problem solved. Pretty much any pack that is 20mm to 23.5mm thick will fit. With the 2mm toplate raised 23.5mm thick battery for is the thickest I want to go.

The only other thing is when using the DUO motor for sure my amount of motor movement is small as the motor hits the brace that the side belt tensioner is on. I have many different spur gears and pinion gears so a little bit of a pain but still not a problem.

I did hook up the speedo and run some runs testing out the nes speedo and new programming. Everything is smooth and the belts are smooth with no skipping under hard accelerations and then smacking the brakes and then hard throttle with no problems. Will see when I hit the track if it stays like that but shouldn't be a problem with the excellent belt tensioners that are included in the kit.

Guys,

Finally i received my E4RS2009. I still dont open the box as im with too much work.

I need your help on a base setup for :

- Asphalt Outdoor.
- Rubber.
- Clean track with little dust on the outside areas.
- Little bumpy on some sections.
- Just a little technical on the infield with a 195 feet back straight.

Im using Novak GTB Speed + Novak 13.5 SS PRO Brushless motor on NiMH Batteries (no lipo allowed until January 2010).

On the setup tips please include info on FDR for the car, i will switch to 48P spur and pinion as i have many 48P material laying around and no source of 64P locally.

I will only have chance to practice on Saturday and will have my first race with the car on sunday lol !!. Las race i used a Hotbodies Cyclone with 3.91 FDR and i won the race, help me to be close to that lol !! (here we race 8 minutes each heat and finals).

thanks a lot guys,

Pato Concha
Southamerica

If I have a chance tonight I will post some pics of my new E4FS. I have some stuff from Wolf on the way so I think my first time on the track might be possibly Thursday or Saturday. Will see how it goes.:D

Yes ... I should have a new side belt tensioner and upper deck mount here soon.
Direct from the Wolf Man :D

He did mention about the new tensioner so I might call him and place one on order so when it has then I can get it right away.

Was looking at the new Novak Ballistic for 17.5 and possibly 13.5 because the way the endbell is it looks like a great fit for the E4 cars and since it is so tapered at the the end I bet you can get full throw on motor movement. What do you think?

Do you have the Wolf battery tray? I ordered one of those and he was saying I can gain a little more room with his tray for the batteries. If thats the case it would be great because my Yeah Racing 5K pack fits but with the stock platic tray I can't get the tray fully closed even with the topdeck raised 2mm. The way it mounts in the front makes you raise the pack some at an angle to get it in and this is part of my problem. Not a huge deal because I know of many other packs that will fit so I will just buy one since they last so long.

Try here. Plenty of setups to choose from.
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/team...amMagicE4.html

WHATS THAT YOU SAY NOVAK IS RELEASING BALLISTIC MOTORS IN 13.5?!!!
OhhhhhhhMaaaaaaan.

10.5, 13.5 17.5 and I think 21.5 as well. Like I posted on the Ballistic thread I never ever liked Novak products but this one has me looking hard at getting one.:nod: Man saying that if you knew well is going to make hell freeze over.:lol:

I have to think they would be killer motor in the E4 for fit and maximum motor movement. That small end looks great for fitament in an E4.:nod: Black in color don't hurt either as I like black anodize.

LIKE A GLOVE MAN!
Just ask O.J.. LOL

:lol:

Hi guys,

Well, just opened the box.

What a nice view. 80% pre-mounted !!! lol !!!

Now, i do see that the servo is double-faced tape mounted, its that enough ?, or the aluminum servo mounts are a MUST BUY ?.

thanks,

Pato Concha
Southamerica

Rebuild the diff!!!

Just dissasemble and remount ?

thanks,

Ok here is my E4FS:

I have the Yeah Racing alum servo mounts. They are only 7 bucks at my buddies shop at normal price. Tought to beat and they work perfectly on the E4. Almost look like factory and if i polished them they would look factory.:D

cant even think u'd buy 'bob' brand B. almost feel sick over the thought.

idk if tekins are any shorter, prolly not (but never lined em up side by side). orion is comin out with a shorter motor according to O.J. at Euros this past wk. idk if duo2 is any shorter. oh well time will tell

R

I know but even if I don't cre for a company I have to give credit when due and I think this time it is deserved. It is a great idea thats for sure.
I have ran worse and it is in my car in the picture. To me that is far worse.:lol:

At least sand the rings , my kit diff was atrocious.

Sorry to be an ass on this John, im kinda new to electrics, sand the rings ?, hows that ?, and why ?.

What you think about the servo being helded by tape ?, i dont have access to servo mounts at least for this weekend, for the next race no prob but for now, i dont, would the tape resist ?

thanks,

Pato Concha
Southamerica

havent really been able to tape a servo down only to a car since the bolink legend IMO, u should be able to find mounts that will work at ur hobby store.

R

Do you have access to stuff called Shoe Goo or Goop. You can put that on the servo and mount it on the chassis. WHen it dries it will hold your servo in place but allows it to removed later without damaging anything.

The diff rings are not flat from the factory. Remove them and wet sand them with 300 grit sand paper. They will be really shiney and smooth. Makes the diff really smooth.

Get some wet dry 600 grit sand paper and use the short diff half to ensure the drive rings are flat. sand in a figure eight and do both sides of both rings. This will ensure the diff balls have a consistent surface and makes for a much smother diff. Also it doesn't have to be so tight as before the rings were smooth. there is a vid somewhere of Jiles Groescamp rebuilding a 416 diff. You might want to check it out. ;)

Wyd,did you put spacers under the ball on the rear turnbuckle at the bulkhead side??
If not and you use the middle mount on the bearing holder on the rear the upper arms could bind on it.
This was with my car and that also solved my car breaking out at full throttle comming out of a corner.

cheers Roy

Most likely to lower the roll center.

Oops ! Sorry .. yeah the tape will work for now but I bet if you have some Tamiya cars you will find a set of servo mounts floating around in your spares box. Physically mounting the servo instead of tape gives a more direct feel and it wont come off the chassis either. Tape will work for now. :D

The kit does not come with a plastic servo mount...?

One of my E4 is using a HPI Pro 4 servo mount...the rest, GOOP.

I believe only the E4 comes with servo mounts.
The E4RS hasn't got any in the kit.
I use the Tamiya alloy servo mounts and if you have a small servo you can use some double sided tape under it so there can't get any dirt under the servo.

cheers Roy

Like John said to lower the roll center some. Remember I have not ran the car at all so these are not my final adjustments by any means. I have new springs that are not on the car, different motor going in, didn't figure what battery I will use yet, and I didn't get my new Wolf lipo tray yet so to be honest other than my car looking good) well at least to me it does:lol: I'm going in blind.

I will mess with it this weekend on Saturdays racing and maybe back Sunday if need be to practice all day depending on how it all works out. I'm just at the trial and error stage right now.:lol: Give me a few runs to get the cobwebs out with the car and then I will post a report.