I tested the fit of LiPO pack on my car, i race for H-Energy so i tested the fitment of the hardcase 7.4v H-Energy 5.200mah 25C pack and after i sanded the small "angle" of the front plastic support that holds the axle, it fits OK only 1 shim under upper deck but i will have to drill small hole on the deck to put one of the connectors. Battery tray i have to sand a little too for squared batt,

cya,

Pato Concha
Southamerica

Yupyup! I had to grind a little notch in the top of the battery case to get it to sit in the correct spot.

Kist tried fitament with the Losi 3700 and TracPower 4900. They need just a little bit of work bout could be made to fit with the Wolf lipo tray.

The Tracpower 3600 30C fits like a glove. Just as nice as the Orion Platinum 4800.

Hey John or anyone have you guys used the solid spool vs the one/spool combo that I have with my FS car? It is an expensive item and if the main differance is the weight I will just stick with my combo one way/spool setup as I looked at it and looks like it will work just fine. I currently use the one way setup for are track but I will be going outdoors soon and need a straight spool.

I rebuilt the JS this weekend. Swapped it into a new tub as the old tub had a small piece missing by the speedo. I had a huge issue with the front shaft bearings. I had to tear the seals out to get into them for a deep cleaning and found carpet fiber inside the bearings. Time for a new pair of shaft bearings. With the seals out on both sides, the bearings cleaned up nice and roll free again, but not sure how long they would last with no seals. I'm still finding way too much tension in the front and middle belts even with the HPI belt. I tried shimming the front shaft retainer and it will not work as it interferes with the battery door for this this model. It seems to roll pretty free at this point. It needs some electronics to make it a racer again.

Yes .. that combo spool one way is heavy .
And may be the cause of that vibration when used as a spool,
I would love to know if anyone makes a nice light weight one . I would get it in a second ! Wolf ? :D

I used the spool from the E4RS and the one way from the E4FS
The one way gives a lot more free running then the spool but you loose it when breaking.
With the one way you also have less tire wear and it steers a lot more but controlled steer.
I find the one way rather nice but hey that is my opinion:D

cheers Roy

I love a one way too!
Problem is everyone else ie running a spool and the racing lines are different too much to hold off the spoolies. And the spool grinds off speed nicely when you need it most. A one way you have to be very careful to not overshoot the turn.
Half brake and all,

Well I think the more we get this thread moving and more guys running then maybe we can get Wolf to get something made in a spool that is lighter.

Talked with him a little bit tonight and went over some of my findings. I'm going to get everything to him in an email with pics and so on.

I have to say I really like this car. It was love hate at first til I read thru the thread and posting with you and a few others really helped. Now that I have my own car and can mess with things I'm really gathering info fast now.

I can't say enough how good this car felt for me on the track. I know with time it will get even better and my K Factory parts from Wolfs will only make my FS even nicer.:sneaky::D I will post more on the K Factory stuff once I get it this week.:nod:

Carpet really messes up bearings and is one of the reasons that even running rubber tire carpet that I hate running it. Just ruins bearings!!!!!!!!

Does the JS use the same belts as the stock RS and FS cars? My stock belts on the FS are nice and loose and I use the belt tensioners on all 3 belts to keep the belts from skipping. I didn't clean the bearings yet but the car is actually pretty free and is easily as free as my TC5 after 2 months of running it. I don't know but I want to get a JS down the road for a Vintage TA car.

It uses the same belts, but because I'm running a 21.5, they never seem to stretch out well. It really is a great TA chassis. This will be my second year wiith it. I ran 1 full and one partial season last year. I got so frustrated I went back to the TC3s (before I found the fuzz in the bearings). If there were just one more tooth on each belt! I can dream.

John

Maybe try running a 17.5 or a 13.5 for a practice run or will loosen the belts up for you. My car even when brand new the side belt was loose enough to need the belt tensioner and the rear and front loosened up enough after a run or two to need to tighten up the tensioners some.

I know I will be looking for JS in the upcoming months.

Guys,

Do you know if its possible to install the E4RS "pre 2009" front belt tensionner into the 2009 model ?

thanks,

Pat

Isn't it the same???
When runnning with tight belts i remove the front tensioner and use it on the side belt and loosen the rear belt a lot.
It free's up the drive train a lot and with 10.5 running i haven't got any belt skipping so far.
I did this on both of my cars and had not problems yet.
When the belts are strechted enough i put the front belt tensioner back and put the original on the side again but for now i am running it as it is.

cheers Roy

Thats a cool idea. I would say if you took the side tensioner orr completely and made a setup could go up from the chassis to the toplate that is thin then any motor would fit intot he car and have lots of room to move the motor for gearing. I looked at that but but I didn't have a way to put on a different side tensioner so I didn't do it. I just used the new Novak Ballistic motor since it fits great into the car.

Do you have a pic with the front tensioner on your side belt? I would like to see what you did because if it works I might order an extra front tensioner and setup my car like that. Then I will remove the standard side tensioner and make my own mount from the chassis to the toplate. Then any motor would work.:D

I'd like to see a picture of that relocated front tensioner.

Just to make it all clear i only used the bearings from the front tensioner on the side tensioner.
The front bearings are a lot smaller then the side tensioner and so i get a bigger range to put the side belt on the correct tension(dayum that is a lot of tension:D:D )


cheers Roy
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/6885/e4fs3.th.jpg
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/5842/e4fs2.th.jpg
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/9939/e4fs1.th.jpg
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/6866/e4fs.th.jpg

So you just used the front bearings on the tensioner......I guess by looking your using the optional aluminum tensioner instead of the stock plastic one with the graphite.

Well tonight when I get home I will look at it all again. If I use the Novak Ballistic motors all the time I never need to worry about the tensioner again. If I want to use some of the other stuff out like the DUO or Tekin and want more motor rook I will need to work on that tensioner setup.

Ok I will be checking things out tonight after work.

I also used this setup with the plastic side tensioner with the same result.
Don't look at the dust tho,pics where taken just after the sunday race.

cheers Roy

Thanks Roy. I will look into it more tonight. Lets see what I can come up with. If I end up making something I will post pics.

Your welcome:D
We are here to help one another.
If you need other pics or anything else yell.

cheers Roy

Sorry guys, i think i did not received an answer, its possible to mount the E4RS front belt tensionner into the 2009 version ?

thanks,

Pato Concha
Southamerica

I'm not familiar enough with these cars to help you out. I would say if your topdeck has the mounting holes for the front tensioner then yes.

Don't the 09 version car have a front belt tensioner?

If anyone is looking for a good deal on an E4JS with spares... shoot me a PM.

Yes if you need a front belt tensioner u can add it . Just look for 2 3mm holes in the middle of the front of the upper deck.

Man this thread has really come to life the last week or so. Lots of good info being shared. Look forward to running my car again this weekend. Just made some big changes on the speedo and even on the bench I see huge huge improvements and expect to see dividends from that this weekend.

Where are your roll centers ?
How high and what hole?

Funny my car is setup pretty much stock. The only changes from where the car was stock is the following. Stock 1.5arm sweep set from factory.

Front 40wt oil with Tamiya Short blue springs. Shocks moved out one hole on the tower with 5mm ride height and 3mm of droop. Stock sway bars.

Rear 40wt oil with Tamiya Short yellow springs. Shocks layed in one hole on the tower. 5mm of ride height with 3mm of droop. 1mm shim under ball stud on the rear hub. Stock sway bars Stock 2.5 rear toe. Stock 3 degee caster blocks.

All shocks setup to have almost no rebound.

Thats pretty much the only things I have done for my track to get it really hooked up. It does have a on power push and could use a little more rotation in the rear but overall this setup was super stable for me.

I didn't really get to mess with my camber link postions, spacers under the camber links or change the roll centers under the toe blocks. I hope to mess with this more this weekend. Only bad thing is they put a new layout today so as far as lap times to look at all that changed.

I use the Mazda Speed 6 and at are track the SPec tire for the Nationals is the Jaco Blues which I'm currently running.

At this time all stock plastics that come on the FS car. Still has factory slop as well. All belt tensioners set tight enough so belts don't skip.

Let me know if I missed anything.

I believe you can.
A mate of mine has a E4RS 008 and replaced his topdeck with the 009 version with no problems.
The mounting holes are the same and there is no change in position of the tensioner.
If you want to be sure check your part number and give me a mail so i can compare it with what i have.

regards Roy

Looks like an outdoor setup.

Its indoor asphalt and when alot of races show it has traction as high or higher than carpet. Its fine grain rice asphalt with almost no pores and only one tiny bump on the whole track which is not a problem even for 1/12th scales.

Once I try are new layout this week I might shorten the rear camber link on the rear hub if I need more rotation and possibly another spacer under the ball stud on the hub. Have to try the layout first.

Are you using Jacos?
Try 3 deg of camber and 4mm of spacer under the inner upper links.;)

Team Magic E4FS - pretty much two rollers with a bunch of parts. havent seen the parts yet, but was told id pretty much need radio/receiver, servo and batteries. $250. should i do it?

We can proudly announce that we are as CometRC.com the distributors of TEAM MAGIC, K FACTORY and HARD products within the UK.

www dot cometrc dot com

Regards

Team Comet

I have not shipped from overseas before but roughly what type of lead time to get stuff to the US?

Yes where using Jaco Blues because that is the spec tire for the upcoming ROAR Nationals. I will try that this weekend once I see what the car is doing on the new layout. I know right now at least I have 2 1/2 neg camber on the rear and 3 neg on the front.

More than likely once the Nats are over I will switch to another tire but for next 2 months or so Jaco it is.

So, about those E4FS rollers/parts. Is it worth it? Seems parts can only be found in a few places. Makes me worry.

It is easily worth that much. Parts can be found at Wolf Hobbies. I talked with Wolf a few times and super nice guy. I ordered once so far and have another order pending but so far zero problems getting stuff for the car. He is really into the Team Magic cars and even has had his own Wolf Hobbies custom parts made for the E4 cars. My experiance with Wolf has been great. I know from reading past posts I only see good things posted about Wolf Hobbies.

A few places overseas carries stuff as well so if I need something that bad I can always order it and have it in two weeks or so.

Thank you.

My only other concern is that I'm pretty new to RC. My Rustler is my first car. While I was intimidated at first to work on it, I've now taken everything off except the servo and turns out, it was cake. The E4 looks much more intimidating, but I'm assuming it would be just as easy to figure out. What do you think about the complexity of the car?

It is like most touring type cars. They are a little more complex than your standard offroad cars. Don't let it intimidate you. Go slowly and take your time. If you get stuck this forum is here to help you and anyone else.

Make sure you have a nice clean work area free of clutter. Makes working ont he car alot easier. Do a little at a time then take a break. Keeps you more refreshed alert while working on the car.

Those seem like really good tips. Sometimes I'll work on my Rustler for over an hour. Cleaning, replacing parts, etc. and it can be tiresome/aggravating. Maybe I'll keep that in mind next time; shorter work times.

Thank you Wyd. To you and the rest of the Castle team: Mad props. Thoroughly enjoying my MM ESC and motor.