hi

can anybody tell me what I have to do to make the pictures visible?

I see only this:

[img=http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/1746/picsm.th.jpg]

[IMG]picture web link[/IMG]

What is the max height on LiPo battery for FS/RS chassis?

Issac, what battery is that you are running on your car? Also are those pos and neg connectors connected to your battery? If so are they secured well? Also have you had any issues with the connectors for the battery?

Thanks,Jason.

Was wondering the same thing... A PM from the seller of the cars I just picked up told me 24mm....

I believe he has told us before that he uses Pro-Match LiPo's... I would assume this one Pro-Match LiPo

But I am also curious about the connectors.. Seems a lot more bulky then regular plugs.. Is there a reason you are using them?

I run bullet connectors and never had battery issues ever.
Honestly I am using them because I didn't have to worry about soldering them and they are well protected from the chassis. Easy to grab and handle. Heck they work. Plus I needed the length because some packs switch or have the positive and negative connectors opposite of what I have. So if I wanted to try a different pack I would need the length. I may use the Trinity bullet plugs I have later. I personally like it and gets the job done. Looks better in person. 24.5 mm I would say is maximum height...

Very good points... And thanks for the detailed photos.....
I was just thinking in terms of my 1/12th.. I was thinking of switching to bullet packs for the nice clean look they give but what you said makes sense... Those things are practical... I see you needed to shave the one to fit but other then that seems nice and neat anyway... I just shoved my 5200 SMC into my new car using some shims but just bought a new battery online tonight with bullets and will save that until my new esc comes in as well.... Again thanks for the pics and my name is Ryan Reyes I will probably be posting a lot of ?'s on here now considering my new fleet lol....


Also.. Isaac... where do you race if you don't mind me asking... I am in St. Louis right now but am moving to NJ soon and will be racing at Horsham but if your just in Maryland that will be a good excuse to talk the girlfriend into a weekend vacation to do something down there one day and race with another E4 the other..

No way I use these connectors on a 12th scale or a typical 2 belt car. Had to shave a little off one connector because of the chassis on the negative side. Still doesn't touch the chassis.

Thanks, I must has missed his post on the battery which he runs.

NP.. wasn't trying to be mean or sarcastic in any way.. I know it can come off like that sometimes with us just typing ya know..

E4 suspension.
 

My theory is STIFF and LOW is fast. And where tracks are smooth and have very little bumps, I stiffen up. We run on asphalt Sorex36, so stiffer is good with that config. Might be different with softer compounds.

Been having a lot of handling issues with soft suspension so we stiffened right up to BLUE front and TURQ rear and could see that the car was noticeably unsettled on the track. We gradually reduced the spring rates until the car seemed smoother on track.

Running soft will let the car roll from side to side and tend to bite on the tyres. Whilst sway bar should remove this, I dont feel that the sway systems on the E4 are stiff enough to make a dramatic difference. We run a G4 as well and they are stiffer.

Stiffer suspension seems to give us a flatter ride and car seems a lot happier.
We arent experienced in any way, still experimenting and this is what Ive found to date.

Any suggestion would be appreciated, by no means are my findings final and we are still working our way around the chassis.

cheers.

h

Sebo..
 

URLlink
http://www.beachmumsracing.org.au/wp..._2010_1024.jpg

IMGlink
http://www.beachmumsracing.org.au/wp..._2010_1024.jpg

Attach via URL - ERROR
http://www.beachmumsracing.org.au/wp...2010_rear.jpg:
Upload failed due to failure writing temporary file.??
(SEEMS it's adding a COLON to the end of filename)

Attach from HDD local:
Attachment 535291

What is the spring rate for the turquoise spring?

I believe it was answered before a view pages back but here it is again:D

gn - 11.5
mg - 14.4
pk - 19.2=turquoise i believe???
pr - 23.1
lgn - 30.0
bl - 38.0
or - 46.2
gr - 58.8

cheers Roy

two different colors for the same spring rate?

Some call it pink and others call it turquoise if we are talking about the TM springs.
Just keep the ratios in mind

cheers Roy

Well if that's the case I have the rear springs on the car and according to Blis I should try stiffer front springs.

TM springs.
 

Turquiose.. isnt PINK!!

lemme.. check my spring kit.

Light Green = 1.2mm
Maroon = 1.3mm
Pink = 1.4mm
Purple = (Rear) 1.5mm
Turquoise (Fronts) = 1.6mm
Blue = 1.7mm
Orange = 1.8mm
Grey = 1.9mm

Have no idea how to measure the actual rates though.

What I can measure is the gauge of the default springs are 1.35 like the maroons if you take into consideration the paint. The default springs have 8 coils, and the spring kits have 6.

Thank you for the clarification. Are the springs below the same? Got this from RC Mushroom.

Team Magic G4 Spring Set

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ducts_id=14040

[TM-502143] $21.00USD http://www.rc-mushroom.com/images/pixel_trans.gif http://www.rc-mushroom.com/images/TM-502143.jpg
Comes with 8 pairs of springs:

1.2mm 10lb
1.3mm 13lb
1.4mm 17lb
1.5mm 20lb
1.6mm 26lb
1.7mm 31lb
1.8mm 41lb
1.9mm 51lb

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/images/pixel_trans.gif

That's them:)
 

Interesting specs.. where'd they come from?

Me bad:blush::blush:

Those are the springs i also use for indoor.
1.3 at the back and 1.5 at the front

cheers Roy

I just finished my car for next year. I will be working on a mod setup for large asphalt track with med traction. I just received the TM spring kit and will post results in the future. The lbs on the springs seem to be off a little compared to other brands. I have a spring compressor gauge to test.

I would like a better look at that motor cooling fan setup, where did you get it.

I too want to know about your fan set up as I like yours better than the one I just finished. I also just loaded the new Tekin software and let's just say I am looking forward to this weekend.

Its a very simple setup, clean and super glue two fans together side by side...let dry and mount using a spacer between the fans and the mounting point. I mounted mine to the front hold down brace of the rear spur shaft. Run the two fans in series and put a plug on the end. very simple but effective. I take closer pics if needed

Closer pics and what model fans? Thanks it's nice.

Stunning car:D
Where did you get the red top bulkheads from??
Or did you just polished the original alloy one and painted them??

cheers Roy

No, it comes that way. Its a Wolf Hobbies Dave Ehrlich limited edition. I love the finish of the car.

Well I ran today. Not good because of traction rolling. First run I was on an A Main run... traction roll. It was like that all day until my "scrub" main. The car is fast enough. I got some good compliments on the car and I was not the only traction rolling. By the main I got the car to push. Throughout the day raised the camber links on the bulkhead 4 mm front and back, went to a 24lb front spring, 17lb pound spring rear and the last thing I did was mount the rear shocks on the inner most hole and the front shocks 1 hole in from the outer hole. The shock position change is when it stopped traction rolling. I used SJ-R 36R and still traction rolled with that hard tire until the end. I still like the car and it's fast if it stays on all four wheels...:D

So I guess the issue of traction rolling was not necessary due to a poor setup, since others were experiencing the same problem. Was the track prepped well?

~Jason.

If you went out of the groove let's just say "you knew" you were out of the groove. Yes it is very tacky as your tires get build up on the outside edge. All cars traction rolled at some point or another but some got theirs under control. It was a throttle control thing but it slowed you down obviously because you had to slow down. The car was fast but as the day went on the traction was crazy. Go outside the groove and you either pushed or the rear got loose.

Isaac are you running the stock 3 degree caster blocks? How much droop are you running in the car?

I started with 2mm over ride height front and rear then ended with 1 front and rear. I am going to start over when I practice/run next time. I think it's the track actually Brian as at some point everyone was rolling including the following each other Xrays. 3 degree blocks... yes.

Wow tons of traction can cause havoc for everyone. I would try more droop as it will allow your car to roll alot farther before it traction rolls.

Sounds like you have it fast though and thats great to hear. Keep working hard as you will get it all figured out. Alot of extra learning as the E4 is just alot different than most cars. Thumbs up to for not just running a car that everyone has and stepping out of the box a little. You will figure it out and be rewarded for that.:nod:

Hello all, I am looking into parts and prices for the E4. Does anyone know the difference between the following:

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/E4_Parts-...l_Joint_2.html

and

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/E4_Parts-...Dogbone_2.html

From the pics they seem similar, but the descriptions are different. What are the differences between a dogbone and universal joint? Is a joint similar to a CVD?

Also do pinions come in one set size, as I assume that manufacturers shafts are not all the same size.

Thanks,Jason.

503216 E4
 

I'd be daring enough to say that the latter 503216-1 is just the joint/dogbone, the first is 503216 the complete CVD.

PS: We have snapped two of the 7075 Alu in the past month.. with 4.5 503124 is the steel version.

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/E4_Parts-...l_Joint_2.html
h

Really, I can see how that may happen. Did the car smack a wall or a board? Did the housing break which encloses the 7075 Alu? Do you think the parts which broke are defects?

~Jason.

They're lightweight..
 

I doubt they are defect, they are race bred, quality alu the loads being applied by modern motors and the lightweight race precision of the 7075 Al, something will ultimately lead to failures somewhere without a clutch.

TBH, we celebrated his first breakage as up until that point we couldnt get that much power to the ground with our chassis setup. (as we used 6.5T previously, now down to 4.5) It may be aging wheelhubs too..

Regardless, it's just a matter for Luke to better control his throttle off the bottom rpm range or use the steels and sacrifice some weight.

h

if I have "traction roll", first of all I always use some superglue on my front tyre walls. It helped me many times.