Can be put or adapt alum Bulkhead left and right and alum upper deck mount of the e4 rs on e4? So that you can install brushless motors without needing to modify cells
thank
olivier

Hey guys, excelent job and more helpfull. :nod: the last weekend i go to managed a 2º in Final A of regional and TQ, with my new E4, and this weekend go to Villarreal (European 2008 track) for National Cup of Champions, i need good luck, and a powerfull motor, of course :sneaky: :sweat:
Thanks to Marcos, Nocif,Wolf, and other guys for share your Knowledge and setups.
I have a good base setup, for this track, is possible to see, here:http://www.cochesrc.com/foros/nuevo-...27202-220.html
Sorry, is in Spanish, but google work great in English-Spanish :lol:;)

Greetings, Luis C.

set up looks good! If you need anything let me know (i also speak spanish:))

:eek:Oh, ok, Muchas Gracias ¡¡¡ :smile:
My english is very bad, tomorrow i recived a E4RS, and i like to probe the chassis and the nylon pulleys, instead alu of Normal E4, if i need some help, i contact with you, thank you very much.

Greetings, Luis c.

Just curious how many of you are running your e4s on the carpet. So far I have heard alot of talk about rubber tires and asphalt but not alot about carpet and foams. I will be spending a full day on my car on Saturday and am going to post what I learn but just curious if there is anything out there I should try. I am going to really work on making the car more balanced it is very good but I have found that it either wants to bind up in the center or work the tires to hard and depend to much on tire softner. This tells me I have not found a good balance between roll stifness with the sway bars and springs, and the transition speed with the shocks. I forgot to order a second set of sway bars and I am frustrated with myself because I think that this car is going to have to run equal bars front and rear just from what I have learned thus far. I also am going to try and use some other springs that are shorter so I wont have to cut the K factory ones anymore. The car really likes a ride height just under five mils and it is not possible with a full length spring (at least not the stiff ones). Anyway I will keep you guys updated on what I learn about this awesome car. Thanks again WOLF.

you can use losi Type R shocks and springs and you should have no problem getting the ride height that you need. I use Losi Type R springs on mine with no problems;)

Tamiya short springs are a perfect match!

Que Tal Luis,

Cualquier ayuda que necesites, favor de escribirnos. Estamos a su servicio!!! Buena suerte en las Nacionales:cool:

Looking into a new chassis and am interested in the E4.

Just want to know what the difference is between the E4 and E4RS and which one is the higher end chassis?

Also what is the point of the 2?

Cheers
Aaron

Me too, since I know E4 was launch for Rubber tires, and RS is Rubber Spec, is that the same ?
Team magic don´t come out with that info !

Hi guys...Wolf has already covered this earlier in the thread around pages 16-19.

Theres different versions of the E4.

Regular E4- first version also known as the special edition, since its not being produced anymore. It comes with aluminum hubs, camber link braces, and many other aluminum parts which are hop-ups for the other versions.

E4FS- foam spec...its a new version of the E4 optimized for foam carpet racing.

E4RS- Rubber Spec: new version of the E4 optimized for Rubber tire asphalt racing, and thus comes with 2.5mm lower chassis, and 2mm upper deck for more flex, etc.

E4JS- this is the budget E4. Like Cyclone S and Xray T2R, they offer lower cost TC by using composite chassis, top deck, shock towers, etc.

For more info on the kits and their specs, check them out at team magic website and lokk the specs of these cars.

Thanks for the info. I did look at the TM site and it doesn't really give an insight as to the different cars and which one was the higher end chassis.

From what you have replied with, I take that if I purchased an E4 it would be the RS version as the original is no longer available, is that right?

Where is the best place to buy one from. Im in Australia but we mostly have to buy offshore due to ridiculous pricing here, so any o/s store with good service and pricing.

Cheers
Aaron

What hop ups and spares would be considered a nessasary purchase with this car?

Cheers
Aaron

Aaron,

Both of these shops have the original E4 plus the rubber spec car:

http://rc-mushroom.com/index.php?cPa...a&filter_id=41

http://rcmarket.com.hk/index.php?cPath=52_105

I run the original but I think the RS car would be better due to improvements made in some areas, such as lighter drivetrain components etc.

As for spares, like all cars you'd probably need to carry arms, hub carriers, driveshaft blades, & spare belts.

Thanks Jason.

I didnt get a chance to check out your car at the Interclub, but as Im going to be running lipo, brushless stock, looking at this car it appears to be a good platform for that class.

What is it's transmission ratio, it's not on gearchart as yet?

Cheers
Aaron

The original E4 is 2.0588, not sure if the RS car is different.

the FS is 1.888 the RS and the Original E4 are 2.0588

the only hop up I recommend is the KFactory rear 1.5degree hubs, besides that I dont think the car needs any upgrades :), as far as spares i recommend at least 1 set of front and rear arms,steering hubs and some drive shaft blades. If you have a issues with your rear driveshaft blades coming out try this modification, I used the cap of a sharpie marker and cut it about 5mm long and slid them over the rear diff, its a perfect fit and with this mod i have no problems with the rear blades:)

http://www.deadzoom.com/member/terri/e4001.jpg

Thanks guy's, the more I look into this car the more it becomes confusing as to what is the best option.

I have since learned that the 3mm bottom chassis plate is the way to go now for outdoor, asphalt rubber tyre racing.

Seems there is a trend in all cars to go back to a stiffer chassis, where before we were all looking for chassis flex for the above conditions.

How do you change the rear toe settings on this car, are the parts included in the kit to do so and also how do you adjust the lower roll centres?

Cheers
Aaron

Hi Aaron...If you're running outdoor asphalt, just get the E4RS, like Marcos suggested. Dont complicate your self...get an RS and have fun!!! We'll be here to help you with any info or set up tips you need.

Toe settings can be done with what's included in the kit. you dont need different parts. Everything you need for asphalt racing is included in the kit an the kit set up is a good starting point or use Marcos Jennings set up which proven and works even better.

Roll center is adjusted like any other car. Camber links or by shimming suspension mounts on the chassis.

Later,

Yohan

Thanks guy's.

The guy's from Wolf Hobbies are helping out with this as well. I just want to get the most track ready version first off.

Im not entirely convinced on the 3mm bottom chassis concept but I must admit a lot of guy's have gone back to the carpet chassis on their TC5's with some success, so there must be something in it.

What size lipo's will fit this car....HardCase that is. Will the Core 5000 fit or similar?

And whats the performance and tranny ratio difference between the 2 sets of pulleys ie: 34 rear,front tooth pulleys - 17 tooth centre and the 35/18 in same combo?

Cheers
Aaron

Hi guys:

First off, again, it is just amazing to me how great you guys are at helping one another out. This is the spirit that we at Wolf Hobbies are working to provide as well. We received a lot of email and phone calls about the limited options available with the two follow-on kits (the FS and RS). They're unhappy with having to be told what kind of front drive they have to use. In addition the FS guys were unhappy that there were not ANY options for them as the internal ratio was different and there was not a front 1 way or spool available for them. We stepped in and created the /C series for them and in turn everyone else who like to buy what they run without having to buy any expensive 1 ways, spools, or diffs just to get the car that they want to drive. The following is my opinion and brutally honest. So this is what is available:

E4 Hands down the best value of the bunch. Hundreds of dollars in aluminum for about $30.00 extra. Comes with the convertible (independent, coupled and spool in 1) 1 way. Very competitive right out of the box but it is not going to be as competitive as some of the specialized cars.

E4RS The production version of the E4. Many of the aluminum part replaced with plastic. Only comes with a spool. If you want a 1 way it will cost you (503131 and 503132) about $81.00. If you want a diff (P/N 503904) it will cost you $18.95. Great car. You can tune it for any kind of track but it is not possible to make it stiffer without changing the bottom deck.

E4FS The "foam spec" car. Designed to be specialized for foam tires on carpet. One of the features is the thicker (by .5 mm) bottom and solid top deck. It was also orphaned by the internal ratio which did not allow owners to use anything but a front diff. We rectified this by offering a free pulley change-out for anyone who wanted to run something other than the front diff. The cost of the front spool (503234) is over $30.00. and the 1 way (my favorite way to roll on the rug) diff will again cost you about $81.00 extra

E4FS/CD Lowest price kit of all. Uses the 3mm bottom deck and the 2.5mm top deck. The top deck is CNC machined with 2 reliefs to make it more complient. It also has the twin arm steering and the common 2.0588 internal ratio. If you are looking for more compliance than is gained by the top deck cutouts all you need to do is remove the front outer standoffs. FYI: in a blind test our driver could not tell the difference between the 2mm top deck with one cutout and the 2.5 with 2 cutouts. If you want to make this car more compliant it is very easy. If you want to make a softer car stiffer... well that pretty much means you have to change the bottom deck to this one.

E4FS/CS Like the /CD but with a front spool.

E4FS/C1 Like the /CD but with a 1 way included at a MUCH lower total cost.

As I mentioned earlier, this is my opinion. It is our way to satisfy as many customers as possible. We received a lot of emails and calls complaining that the car is just too expensive. We listened and we stepped up to the plate and gave you what you asked for. Did we come up with the perfect solution for everyone? Of course not. But what we did do was give everyone the option of getting what they want right from the start. You do not need to pay for parts you don't want. If it turns out that there is another variation necessary we will make that one next. At this time we are also working on a drift car, and a "limited slip" diff. We have sent out samples of the diff for field testing. We will let you all know how that turns out.

Thanks

Wolf

Hey Marcos J, is the hardware getting some surface rust? Just curious

Thanks

none what so ever

The car is great with the stock chassis, some guys prefer the stiffer chassi, both will work great just with the stiffer chassis you will make the suspencion work a little more than letting the thinner chassis do mosdt of the work.

With the aid of so shims (2.5mm to 3mm) under the top deck I can fit the Core RC 5000 with ease.

As far as the internal ratios I prefer the 2.059 because ut gives me a better ratio range for mod racing.

kyosho korea cup
 

i got second position in Korea Kyosho Cup.

i realized the importance of Batteries!!

E4, LRP 4.0, LRP TC, Much-More AT32 Tire, IB 4600 Zapping 6 Cell.


in this circuit.. Korea Nation EP race will be held in next month

the race rule of battery is only 5-cell.

congrats!

Just ordered me a 503002-C1 - 1/10 E4FS/C1 Rubber Tire Spec Electric Touring Car. It's the E4FS Rubber Conversion with (convertable) front 1 way option.

I plan on running it on a large outdoor asphalt track.

http://www.rcpikeriver.com/images/rcprtrackviewbig.gif

Also will have the following setup on the car:

- Mamba Max with 7700 BL motor (equivalent to 7T)
- Orion 4800 Lipo
- 110T spur 64 pitch
- Internal ratio is 2.0588
- Tires are Jaco greens (Rubberz)

My question is what size of pinion should I be using ?

Any suggestion on color springs to use ? I ordered the G4 spring set.

Also running with a Mazda 6 Blitz body.

Look forward to some help here :)

Congrats Gansei! Any race footage?

Congratulations, Gansei. I finish 4º in Final A, in the Nationals Cup of Champions, this weekend with a pretty similar components, E4 (with chassis and top deck from RS), Nosram 4.0, Nosram Istc, and Vtec 4600.
Only 2 TM E4, and the 2 cars in Final A, 4º and 7º, very good performance.

Greetings, Luis C.

???

ps: Congratulations, Gansei

HI
luic you have a PM

Olivier,only one piece are different, the upper deck mount, is not in alu, is in plastic with a piece a carbon fibre for mount a tensioner.
The motor mount plate, is the same, but is lightened. And the left support for center axle is the same.

Greetings, Luis C.

thank luis

about a 24t pinion (for a 9.43FDR) but i would get an assortment of spurs and pinions its alot easier to find the ratios that you need with the minimum space to move the motor.

I would start with about 19lbs in the front and 17 lbs rear depending on the grip.

I have a few set ups that work very well a few pages back:)

Thanks Marcos,J .

Sent you a PM.

back to you !! I emailed the set ups to you

OK guys here is the set-up I built for my E4 this weekend, its not perfect but its a whole lot better then what I started with. I set the track record this weekend and ran away from a JRXS. Anyway here it is.

What version of the E4 Do you use marcos?

He uses the regular E4(original special edition) w/ 2.05 IR

I'm sending your tray ASAP!!! Check your PM

like yohan said, i have the original edition:nod: