http://teammagice4.blogspot.com/2008...lantation.html

HI MARCOS

What changes did you do to ADJUST THE the Pro 4 /cyclone front arms ?

THANK
olivier

Thanks for the link

well i had to take some material out of the arm towards the back to be able to get the exact wheelbase and i also had to ream out the arm to be able to use the E4 caster block. Then I added the shims shown on the picture to allign every thing as the E4 arm. I also had to use a shorter cvd bone 46mm to fit. I havent ran it yet I really dont know the benefit , like i sai i got cought in a jam over the weekend (broke and arm and had no replacement) so i had to do this modification but i ended up just gluing the arm and adding some papertowel (like fiberglass body work on a car).


I have no idea about the outcome i just needed something to finish the race for the weekend:)

good link I was going to post the pictures of mine but he did the same thing that I did :)

Sorry but is in French
thank

no problem just use this!!

http://babelfish.altavista.com/

Here is the English translation of my blog:


As I have pus to see it, the engines brushless cannot be assembled on L E4 WITHOUT MODIFICATION of the frame and the cells because of the tète larger than the engines brushed
The 1ere stage consists in cutting out the exchange part of the frame or come to place the engine, that allows a better cooling, and as the tète is slightly longer on the brushless it touches against the frame, therefore will be necessary to file 1mm the frame or the tète come to touch, so that the tete returns perfectly in are housing

Being gives that to put the engine in are housing it is necessary to remove the cell and the support of belt tightener!!!

Once the engine goes up without correction of the cells, the engine almost does not move in are housing and impossible to regulate L between teeth correctly and to mount too large pinion of A the cylindrical tète of the engine which touches between the cell and the support of belt tightener


The 2nd stage consists with a dremel to come to sandpaper and decrease the matter of the cells in order to be able to remove and put the engine without having to remove the cell and to thus be able to correctly regulate L between tooth of the pinion

link:http://teammagice4.blogspot.com/2008...lantation.html or http://teammagice4.blogspot.com

Thanks for everyone's help with this, it's a great help, will make the same modifications and see how I get on,

Cheers,

Jason

http://bp0.blogger.com/_HnkkKN44vAc/...h/S3012692.JPG

http://bp2.blogger.com/_HnkkKN44vAc/...h/P2010061.JPG
http://bp0.blogger.com/_HnkkKN44vAc/...h/S3012697.JPG

regional french race
http://teammagice4.blogspot.com/2008...marignane.html

Here's what I do to take my motors out , it taks me about 2 minutes or less.

I take the side belt off,side belt tensioner mount and top layshaft brace.
http://www.deadzoom.com/member/terri/E4motor.jpg

Then the motor slides out side.
http://www.deadzoom.com/member/terri/E4motor1.jpg

Top view.
http://www.deadzoom.com/member/terri/E4motor2.jpg

I changed my longer need to remove the belt tensioner to the motor

Marcos you split the chassis of 1mm or the carbon just ask the head of the engine? Otherwise lo engine is not right in housing are

yes i did take off 1mm of the chassis for the motor:nod:

:sneaky::nod::nod:

We can adjust the chassis, the cells AND belt tensioner of the e4 rs for a cleaner result?

Hey JayBee dont you have a spare E4 body laying around ?? (hint hint)

What spur gears are you guys buying to use on the E4. The local hobby shops dont have any spurs outside of offroad so I cant go match them up, I know you can get a 100 and 110 from Wolf now but not sure if these are the ones you are using. thanks.

front belt tensioner

Im using RW spurs but any standard spur will work on the car:nod:

why would you need a front belt tensioner?

Thanks again to Wolf!! I ordered the parts sunday night and they were on my front door today!! Thanks again!!

NON I saw her on a website

i use a kimbrough 84 in 48dp spur

You must be talking about the one that's on the Schuie now:sneaky::lol::lol:

marcos PM

back to you

No PMs for me? C'mon guys:cry:

why Ill see you on saturday's race :)

hey guys, the car looks awesome! will have to get one soon also where did you get the speed passion ESC From?

I got it from Schumacher U.S.A.!!

ok, thanks, just ordered the speed passion gt esc and 8.5 Motor from RCmodel, and should have a E4 Lined up from Yohan.

with a bit of luck i will be racing next weekend with my new E4 :D

sounds good , if you need any help with set ups let me know!

What have you guy been breaking on this car? I am going to order an RS on friday and need to know what spares to get.
Also can you fit a core 5000 in it without shimming the top deck?

Thanks for your help.

No you can't. Shimming is necessary.

hey Marcos How do you find the Core 5000 Lipo have you compared it to the Team Orion? and what do you have to do tofit it in the E4?

the orion is a ok pack but if you are racing mod I would run the Core 5000 pack, all you need is about 2.5mm shim under the top deck:).I ran the car with the 3200/3600 pack with no shim under the top deck and with the 5000 pack with the shimms under the top deck and the car handles the same way( that i noticed)
as far as the Orion 4800 I havent ran that battery

The only part that i broke in this car was a front arm , due to a nitro car running in to me (he hated getting passed by a electric car :)) I would keep a extra set of arms,maybe some rear hubs(unless you get the KFactory rear hubs),and steering hubs.

Hi Again:

This thread is just amazing. Lots of people helping each other, being positive and just moving ahead. Helping each other get faster and faster. Thank you all for the kind words!!!!! We really are working hard at making sure everyone gets what they need ASAP.

We have tech tips and news about new cars.

The first tech tip is how to put on the side pulleys. Is there an easy way? Yes there is. First put the pin into one hole on the pulley. Stop when the pin is about the center of the main bore. Then put the O ring into its groove everywhere except where the protruding pin is. Take a screwdriver and push the pin out of the main bore so that it will go on the middle or lay shaft. Rotate the pulley on the shaft while applying light pressure to the protruding pin. When the pin lines up with the hole in the shaft it slides in and the O ring covers it up. REAL EASY.

The second is the Ackerman adjustment on the single arm steering system. It is not real apparent but you can reduce the Ackerman by removing the ball studs on the center arm and turning the retainers 180 degrees. You will need to shorten the turnbuckles a bit but it really mellows out the turn-in a lot.

The news is the new /CX cars. They have taken a while but we think you will agree they were worth the wait. We received a LOT of emails saying that they don't like running spools and don't want to be "taxed" into having to buy a 1 way or a diff. Then there were the issues about the internal gearing being incompatible with the 1 way. Then there was the motor fit issue. With all of that we decided to "fix" all of these issues for our customers. So we now have 4 rubber tire / asphalt choices for you. All of the /CX kits have the 3mm bottom deck and the 2.5mm top deck has been relieved with 2 CNC routed cutouts. This gives you several combinations of tuning for chassis compliance. The easiest is to remove the "Upper Deck Stiffener Posts" (P/N 503208). This makes the car more compliant than the RS. The second is removing the "Upper Deck Stiffening Mount" (P/N 503207). This is a fine tuning tool. The modified upper deck is lighter than the stock 2mm deck and looks way cool. All of the kits have the 2.0588 internal ratio so they are compatible with the 1 way and spool. They also allow a smaller spur to help with adjustment issues with the larger motors. They have the Non FS rear arms and 3 degree caster blocks (on both sides). The single arm steering has been changed to the twin arm style. To put it simply they are RSs with a 3mm bottom plates and 2.5mm top plates with 2 reliefs (instead of 1 on the RS) so the overall chassis compliance is about the same. The real difference is the options. The first is the E4FS/CD. This kit has a front diff. (we are working on some cool options on the diff itself. As soon as testing is complete we'll post the parts). The second is the CS. This kit has a front spool. The third is the C1. It has the convertible 1 way. The 4th option is the E4RS. One bonus of all of this is that it saves you money. If you want the 1 way or diff you don't have to pay the "spool tax". Another bonus is that your car is versatile enough to tune for any condition including carpet and or foam tires. You will notice that the prices for all of these kits is different. We are doing everything we can to keep your cost as low as possible. We want the car to be what YOU want. If you want the single arm steering instead of the twin arm, just tell us when you place the order. If you want one cutout on the top plate or none just tell us at the time of order. At worst case it will add one day to shipping. In addition to the free internal ratio kit we are offering we will modify your E4FS top plate for free. If you want your E4FS top plate to be machined, send it to us and we will machine it and send it back for free. It is a 1 day turn-around.

We have added 5039XX parts to the list. These are special assemblies that we produce for you. These are a direct response to your requests.

All of the items in this post are a result of your emails and postings. If you need something different / special or if you have an idea to make the kit better, please let us know.

Thanks

Wolf

That's awesome!