:lol::lol::lol:
Without the body its about 1210 gram
With body its 1315 gram
Need to add 40 grams of weights to get it to 1350 gram.
Used a tamiya body before but don't like the handling of it so i stick to a Mazda 6 or the Mazda 6 speed for indoor and the Dodge stratus for outdoor.
Sad thing about the Dodge is that i need to ad more weight:weird::weird:.
Ah well as long as it handles ok and i can have some fun out there:D

cheers Roy

Hey guys... Can someone give me the part numbers on the fs arms and the rs arms.... I will be picking up a FS soon and will be using it only as a rubber car but carpet and asphalt....

As soneone said the rubber spec arms give more clearance?
Would the fs arms be good for carpet then still with rubber tires?
And are the fs and rs arms f/r or are they only diffrent in the rear? Thanks...

The foam FS arms do not help with the correct ride height with rubber tires. The rs arms lower the car for the correct ride with rubber tires. Doesn't matter if it's carpet or asphalt if you are running rubber tires you want the rs arms. Unless you use short springs with the foam arms. The foam arms are for the extremely low profiles of foam tires to get the correct ride height.

I used the RS arms on all my cars, rubber or foam. The foam arms not only make it hard to get ride height but they also have toe in at the hub. With the RS arms you have more than enough adjustability even on foam tires for ride height, droop, and toe in.

Thank you JS good to know.

2-3mm shims

Which BL motors fit the non 09 E4RS ?
Novak Velocity 6.5 Brushless So far this is the only one that fits mines.
Non of the Speed Passion 1st gen Motors fit mines.

And also what ESC dont hang of to the side Besides Tekin RS series ?

Well I race 17.5 and I think the options with no mods are the Novak and Orion motors. I have a Novak Ballistic as I didn't want to hack on the pretty chassis. Plus I have seen them run and they are plenty for anything else I may go up against.

I have my DUO 2 on my E4RS now (same car as yours)...but of course I dremel the side pulley mount (that plastic piece) alot to make the clearence. Just do that....it will work, and so does the mount...

I have my SP GT2 speed (yes, it is hugh compare to Tekin) mounted since day 1 and it is like 1/3 of the speedo is sticking outside the chassis....nothing wrong with that. It won't rub the ground unless you press the car on 1 side and force it to rub the ground...

The LRP motors fit like a glove in there.
Almost all motors with a tampered rear end will fit perfectly.
For th GM you need to remove a little bit of the side tensioner at the motor side.
For the rest i don't know.

cheers Roy

I wanted to try the LRP motors. Thanks for the info!

Thanks Isaac and JS... Guess I don't need to worry about that... What I'll be getting from you is the older version of the car right? Have you already made changes to fit larger motors? Or what motors were you running? Thanks... If Drew and the guys make fun of the cars I'll tell them they were yours and that should shut them up right lol?

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!:D

When I ran at Frederick when you seen my car run I had the FS arms and had no problems getting the proper ride height with rubber tires. Worked out great for me.

Can't wait ti hearhow your car worked for you after you get a chance to run it.

I actually might try the FS arms at some point. The car would be a tank yet still light. I'm thinking the associated spring carriers as the sit lower.

With the short Tamiya springs and the stock FS arms the car was at 5mm ride height but I could easily run lower if I wanted to. I suggest running the car in stock form til you see how it is. Once you get it dialed in and you feel comfortable then I would try the RS arms and see what it gives you.

Both of my cars(in and outdoor) have FS arms and are on rubber tires and i had no probs with getting it low enough.

cheers Roy

Ok. I get it.

E4RS
 

I just picked up the E4RS 09 with the wolf hobbies steel battery tray. Can someone tell me the max dimensions that will fit in the battery tray without adding spacers? I don't see it written anywhere's in my manual. Thank you, Vinny

Body.
 

I have already read a grip of the 183 pages of this thread. I will be the only one at my local tracks running a team magic car. I really wanna kick their butt. I need to learn to drive better but, well, I still wanna roost them. I am now running a TC3. Please, don't tell me what I allready know!!! Old, worn out, blah blah blah. I'm new and wanted to get something cheap to start. I wanted a new car and this is the one I picked. What is a good body to use for this car? What works? I use a mazda speed 6 body now. But my new car needs a new body. Was looking at the "?Mazda R9?" Kinda like the 6 but a little different. I like it a little bit better than the 6. But only for looks. Can you please give my your opinion or ideas of what works good for this particular car. Thanks, Vinny

Oh yeah. I will be running outdoors. Medium traction asphalt. Small track. 5 to 6 minute heats. Track is sometimes technical. Thanks, Vinny. Also, running 17.5

somebody told me that the arms of the e4's are really weak? please enlighten. I currently drive a tamiya and looking at wolf's price I might be leaning in getting one, anyways, ever since I bought my tamiya ( bout a year ago )I have only broken 1 front arm, and two spindles and 1 c hub. And I do hit the boards in almost every race.

Mazda R9 has BIG steering and unless you are ready for that I would stay away from it. Even the pro don't run that body. LTC or the Mazda. I have the Mazda and it's fine. The car changes direction like no other chassis I have ever owned.

I ran today and had one good hit and the arms are fine. ALL arms break no matter the chassis. I saw the "X" car today in shambles after a hit and seen others too.

How did it handle Isaac? Was it worth it and highly competitive? Did they hit the hard wood or did they put something in front of that?

Well,

My Tekin RS PRO ESC + 13.5 Tekin motor its here and i have to prepare it for 2010 season starts by februuary ... any tip on programming this animal ?

thanks !

Rubber tires on carpet and very high traction. The car handled very well. This was my first time running the car. Three belt thing is talk as it was just as fast down the straight as other cars. The thing that blew me was how fast it goes from left to right so corner speed is not an issue. We race with "click tracks". Hard wood? That's on the edge and the Xray ran into it. Like I said any car will break.

Tekin? I got one for sale with the hot wire.

I know that arms will break no matter what, please don't think that I am just trying to give negative comments on this car, reason I'm asking is I want to get this car and just want to know how durable it is.

Drove indoor race a couple of weeks ago with track lines made of firehoses.
If you clip them with speed you know you going to break something or rip something off.
I did a couple of times trying to cut the coners as close as possible and spun a few times in the process.
Nothing broken or even ripped off at all.
So all in all you can say that the car is a bit "asshole" proof:D:D.

Cheers Roy

Has anyone tried different pistons in the shocks or is there a Team Magic 3 hole piston?
These fit?>>> http://www.wolfhobbies.com/Kfactory_...n_1_3_4_6.html

yes, I´m using these,too.


I want to ask if anybody has experience with the new Speed Passion Competition 3.0? Does the motor fit in the E4?

You mean SP 2.0 Version it's a little big so it will hang on the side of the chassis.

No, he means this:
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/Upl...mp3135_med.jpg

Still required some griding on the side belt tensioner mount then it is just like other motors with a short distance of movement...as long as you pick the right spur/pinion it works...

E4FS or RS?
 

The price of these 2 kits are too hard to pass so I am choosing between fs and rs. On a few page back wolfhobbies said it is better to use FS for both outdoor and indoor.
So can anyone tell me the differences and help me to choose. I run mostly outdoor from 17.5 to 5.5 rubber tire. Also which upgrade part or replacement part I should order?
Thanks in advance!!

Check wolf hobbies website as it explains the differences better than I can.
http://www.wolfhobbies.com/product.c...2&product=6844 FS
http://www.wolfhobbies.com/product.c...2&product=6848 RS

I would recommend the aluminum c-hubs and steering blocks for sure. K-factory belts are nice. Keep a few front and rear arms, and front driveshafts if you are like me and crash alot.

Tough Guy - get front steel universals.

Hey Isaac, was your car the yellow one in the vids? If so it looked really good! :nod:

No I was unable to run last weekend.