During my test run today i also snapped a rear universal. I havent looked but i wish there was a rear steel version too. Im running a 3.5 and the overall balance and driveability of the car is great. I am close to a very good setp. I can see that in modified, the rear belt takes more load than the side and front belt. Definatly recommend the K factory belts....at least the rear for mod.

I didnt have to add much weight to balance the chassis using four scales...one for each wheel. Shock collars are almost all the same distance. I only had to add 1 1/2 turn on the collars to balance.

The 25lbs front and 17 rear seems to work well with medium traction with a flat roll center in the rear and 1mm shim in the front inside upper camber links. I have also 1mm anti dive in the front.

Well in the "groove" it was very high traction.

Snap... :)
 

There is a steel version of the joint/bone.

:)

What place has the cheapest Metal Top Bulkhead Bracets that tie down the Shock Towers ?

I snapped mines -_-

And Wolf sells em for 50-60 bucks mushroom has em for 30-39
Any one else in the world carries these parts ?

Just keep two tires in the groove and two out of the groove should give you that balance your looking for.:lol:

Did you change the front roll center on the front blocks? They have two positions. My car FS from the factory had the hinge pins in the lower of the two roll center postions. You might have already changed it but thought I would ask.

Where should they be for high traction? I will look this evening.

I would run them in the high position in the front for sure. Try it and see if you like that and who know maybe the rear as well depending on how the car feels to you. Its a fairly quick change so if you don't car for it you can always put it back.

Another thing you can do is run the rear front ones high and the front ones low to take another degree or so of caster out of the car. It might help even more with the car in the middle out of the corner steering by mellowing it out and keeping it from over rotating and snapping on you.

Then again I don't have my car anymore so I might be wrong. I just pm'ed you my cell.

i changed my wheel base,... that took care of my steering and corner speed.
Rear A-arms hinge pins has 1 metal shim on each side. I moved both rearwards pushing the a-arm forward. It does cause the rear to float alot but it works for me.

Do you have part numbers for those red bulkheads???
Want to give my car that finishing touch and i love red parts:lol::D

cheers Roy

Contact wolfs hobbies, he has them. for example:
http://www.wolfhobbies.com/cart.cgi?group=0&child=7087

I would email him for top brace.

Did e-mail them allready twice but no responce yet:weird::weird:
The red brace i allready have and the burgundy set also,same as the steering blocks.
Now i am looking for the red upper bulkheads to complete the car.

cheers Roy

Anyone here using RS PRO + Redline 13.5 from Tekin ? ...

I need a good setup for ESC and pinion/spur.

I was using GTB Novak with 3,6 FDR, now i put the Tekin and went up to 4,13 but i still dont see differences with the Novak. It supposely to be going up to 5.0 in FDR as minimum base to let take advantage of timing advance and turbo boost, but im not sure about pinion/spur to use ... i have access to 30 and 33 pinion and 72 and 73 spur ... all this in 48P

any tip ?

thanks,

How do you figure out ur Final FDR ?

i know what my pinions and spur are but all i know about the internals that is is a FS internal in a RS chassis.

Devide your dif poulie true your small poulie then you know your internal DR
So a E4RS has a 35 dif poulie and a 17 small poelie(same as the side poulies).
That gives a ratio of 2.0588......
No you have 73 main gear and 33 teeth pinion so 73/33x2.0588=4.554FDR
If i am not mistaken the E4FS has a internal ratio of 2 or at least mine has.
73/33x2=4.424
You can change your internal ratio by changing the dif poulie or the small poulie on your main drive and/or on the inside of your middle shaft.
Dif poulie are in 34 and 35 teeth and the small poulies are there in 17 and 18.
You can change the internal DR into 4 different types.

cheers Roy

Try this
Boost on 20
Turbo Max
Turbo dely 0,5
Throttle 5

For starters.
This is a setup i got from some one on a Dutch forum and he swears by it.
You have to gear the Tekin motor much lighter then any other motor.
Try a spur gear of 76 or 78 with your pinions

cheers Roy

wow O.o

so you saying i have. 104 Spur 35 pinion FS internal 2

104/35x2=5.9 ?

I am using that on a 6.5 atm which seem to run okay i think lots of Turque.

What do i need to change to ratio wise to make a 13.5 be happy in my chassis ?

I am using a Tekin with a 110 spur and a 35 pinion for a 100 foot straight. You do want to be in the 5.0 - 6.0+ range with the Tekin depending on your track. Especially with the newest software. I am geared between 6.0 and 6.5 fdr.

Wow no wonder,...
i was trying to run 116/28*2=8
which was like wth is my car doing.

I dont have a tekin yet LOL i wished i had one lol.
Still using Speed Passion 1.1 no turbo but plenty adjustments for me.

Had a mamba Max pro which was perfect, but the size drove me nutts !
So i am looking at Speed Passion 2.0 GT or Tekin RS,

Anyone uses the Speed Passion and can tell me if the ESC hangs off alot ? the 1.1 hangs of a little not too bad.
I do like the SP with the Programming Box, not too fond of looking a lil LED bars and Laptop interface at the tracks.

Yes on the FDR if you have a 34 dif and 17 small poulie.
Your FDR with a 13.5 motor depends on the track you are driving on
For example.
I drive on a small track(90 feet straight) and very twisty inside.
I have a FDR of 5.215 with a LRP Stock Spec and a GM Pro stock 13.5 motor.
The GM has a lot of torque but won't rev so high as a Tekin motor
If i use my GM ESC i have to gear down a bit as the GM has more timing in the software.
It all depends on track size.

cheers Roy

Oh I run 17.5 by the way.

Oh no...please don't say that the Tekin RS is almost the same as the GTB...

I can tell you from all the ppl that raced around me who used Tekin RS (like 100 of them...LOL) Racing 13.5...at some very small track, they were using the old software V200...were using final drive as high as 9.0 (YES...it is not typo, 9.0 final drive). For alittle bit bigger track, average wer 6.5 to 7. So...I think your gearing was WAY too tall....lower your pinion, raise your spur and keep playing with the timing and turbo.

I know the last time we raced outdoor with a 125 foot long straight, they were all using 6.8-7.2 final drive with the V200 software...

Now....here is the kicker, they just released the V203 and that is some INSANE software for 13.5....there were track and event already banning this software due to the "SPEED"....and from what I was told, ppl using the V203, with 13.5 motor, were gearing @ 7 and higher...

To sums it up...your gearing were too tall.

I am glad you still has the E4....

If you are NOT using your MMP because it hang over the chassis a little....YOU ARE CRAZY. Please download the MMP latest software, run the CHEAT MODE, put that on your E4, even though it hang over alittle, or you have to use DUCT TAPE to mount...you MUST USE THAT SPEEDO to race again BD and TEKIN RS with V203 or you will have ZERO CHANCE.

I highly doubt the GT2 1110 software is even close to the V203. But I know SP has more software coming....

SP GT2 is almost the same size as the V1.1...so it DOES hang over no matter how to try it. Just like the V1.1.

Hehehe Solara I blame you for me hating my JRX now ROFL.
I am able to dive into the turn at much higher speeds now and keep the speed inside a turn.
It has less steering but the harder i push it into the turn makes up for my angle i guess.

Dont get me wrong i love the MMP its like on steriods.
I had it sit on the side and have the Fan hanging off.
It runs great but at this time I really dont want to damage it when getting T-boned.

Our track has a Loong Straight
It has been changes out abit, it has more turns before the straight away now.
Lower right and Left of the pics have few S turns now.
http://www.mikes-hobbyshop.com/_imag...ck/Track01.jpg

I like the gearing of what i have atm 5.9FDR with a 6.5t
Any recomendations for a 13.5t ?

My back straight its almost 210 feet long, rubber outdoor asphalt.

Can anyone help me how to get that hight FDR numbers ?, i use 48P and its almost imposible to go as high as 5.5 !!

thanks,

If you are using V1.1....max out everything on programming. Gear @ 5.0 and check temperature. I ran 4.6-4.8 for indoor carpet...for your track (larger) and outdoor..I would go from 5.0 and might be higher, depends on the motor temp.

OR...get the GT2 and run the 1110 software @ 4.8....or go crazy with your MMP.

Seriously....13.5 @ 210 feet long straight..? Isn't that kinda boring to watch/race? You need 6.5T motor...LOL

E4RS has its own limited gearing bracket, for 64P, your T on pinion and spur combine should be between 140-150T...for 48P, my guess (I am not sure) should be between 110-120T. (again, other can varify this).

So, to get up to 5.5 final drive, you should try 84T spur with 31T pinion with internal drive = 2.0588 (84/31 x 2.0588) = 5.57

I am only showing you what you are asking (5.5 final drive)...if you are running TEKIN with V200 or even V203 software, I really think 5.5 final drive will SMOKE your motor in no time.....please verify the right final drive to use for 200 foot track, outdoor with TEKIN and tekin owners that use 200 or 203 software....but the gearing can be done on E4RS. You just have to stock alot of spur and pinion.

Thanks for the info ...

No boring to watch, its a big track and we change layout every 2 races, so on the first of the year this weekend, we will use full back straight.

Already contacted tekin team manager, recommended me to start with 5.2 and try up to 5.8 on 203 software.

Problem is try to get the spurs here, if i dont get them i will not race, prefer to pass than smoke motor lol

cya

Problem getting spur gears? I have stock at least 12 different set of spur gear so far.....simply between 13.5 and 17.5 motor only. Not to mention pinion almost as big as the spur gear...LOL

I don't own any TEKIN, but I heard what they say when they compare final drive...I heard 9.0, 8.0, and alot of 7.0 when we were racing outdoor larger track (not as large as yours).

I would definitely start @ 6.0 and gearing up...you always go undergear 1st, then compare motor temp and lap time...you can always gear up, but you might not be able to gear down when you see smoke coming out from your electric car....

Take his word on that LOL
I smoked one of my motors xD but i did that with my MMP lol.

When i used to race Novak, my temps were always 160°F or so, and 3,6 FDR on that track when using full back straight.

Here in Chile to buy pinion and spurs i have to order from USA, and with all christmas stuff i forgot to do it so maybe i will pass first race,

cya !

Someone's garbage is someone's treassure.....at our LHS, we have a full box of 48P spur that no one care (most using 64P for TC and only a few still run 1/10th 4WD off road).

I am not sure 64P help you or not...I have never use 48P spur and I do race OUTDOOR parking lot that have plenty of rock and dust...I have not strip any spur gear for the last 4 years of racing with my TC.

Modified motor might be different............

I like 64 pitch.
Lots of adjustment, whisper quiet, but no one carries them in stock here LOL

How long is your straight then??

cheers Roy

I would guess about 64-72 feet the most it is connected to a long sweeper so you can push it in there a bit or at least roll out.

Can you explain why the gearing is so drastically different on the Tekin vs. a Novak. I thought all BL are pretty much the same with the same range of gearing but from what you said, that LOW 9.0 FDR sounds more like the old days with brushed Epic 27 turn motors. I'm used to gearing my BL 17.5 around 3.7 -4.0 and my 13.5 around 4.0 - 4.5. I'm running a Xcelorin 17.5 now at about 3.7 FDR. I just can't imagine 6.0 or 7.0 FDR on a 17.5 BL.:confused:

Our outdoor track has a straight of about 130 feet.
With the LRP SPX Stock spec and the 10.5 GM motor we gear it about 4.27 to 4.6 FDR
I use the GM esc with the GM pro stock 10.5 and have to gear it about 4.6 to 4.8 FDR.
This was with 5 cells.
The guys with 13.5 and lipo gear about the same and gain on us on top speed.
We had 1 Tekin driver there with the RS pro esc and the redline motor who geared a lot lower,about 5.2 to 5.5 and he still was faster then all of us driving the LRP motors and or the GM motors.
The Tekin was screaming on the straight it was just awesome to see and hear.
So for a good FDR you have to start with maybe a to slow top speed and work your way there.
Better start slow then fry your motor or ESC.

cheers Roy

Hmmmm, you are a little bit behind about technology then.

GTB has no timing adjustable...all rely on the motor's timing if there is one.

Tekin, LRP, Mamba, Speed Passion, AE Black Diamond from the last 2 years...all has build in speedo adjustable timing ON TOP of the motor's adjustable timing. Tekin, even has the TURBO MODE along with MMP's Cheat Mode to BOOST the motor on the straight for a short period of time.

2 years ago was the MOTOR of the month...the past year, was the Speedo (software) of the month...this year, who know...may be only SOFTWARE/FIRMWARE of the month.

With all these new software/techology behind the speedo, the good old 4.5 final drive for typical 13.5 motor will only get your motor blew within 1 minute. Of course, unless you are still using GTB that is.

Futabas new Brushless Boost any good ?

Specs say it has like 30 Fets

Thats a new ESC on the block that apparently no one uses atm due to price compared to the MMP

You buy that speedo ONLY if he is lapping you with TURBO, otherwise, it is just a typical speedo.

Again...SOFTWARE, that is the speed secret of 2009. 2010 will be which software that is LEGAL to use....:nod:

If i can drive better LOL i could get all the power of my MMP to the ground LOL
But my driving is intermediate at best LOL
With boost on and timing all jacked up to crazy numbers a 10.5 can easily keep up with a 7700kv motor, car makes a funny wierd noise but yeah ....