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-   -   Team Magic E4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/204165-team-magic-e4-thread.html)

wyd 08-19-2009 12:39 PM


Originally Posted by marooko (Post 6227301)
Those seem like really good tips. Sometimes I'll work on my Rustler for over an hour. Cleaning, replacing parts, etc. and it can be tiresome/aggravating. Maybe I'll keep that in mind next time; shorter work times.

Thank you Wyd. To you and the rest of the Castle team: Mad props. Thoroughly enjoying my MM ESC and motor.

Not a problem. I try my best to help out.

If your new to touring cars in general being in a hurry will get you nothing but problems. Touring cars are a precision type of car and like to be treated as such. Take your time and do things correctly the first time will save you alot oa headaches later. What you get away with doing for lack of better terms "half ass" will not fly with touring cars.

Use the six P method: Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance (the 6 P's):lol: You can apply this saying to almost anything. I learned that after being a little older now. Wish I would of applied this alot more when I was in my teens and early 20's.:nod::D

Pro10noob 08-19-2009 01:03 PM

www.vgmodelbouw.nl sells stuf for TM in Holland
Has a lot in stock and what they don't have they can get in about a week

cheers Roy

wyd 08-20-2009 08:03 AM

I talked to a fellow racer that I knew had a milling machine. He is going to modify my Wolf Battery tray evey so slightly so it will allow for square battery cases like the SMC packs have and about 1mm wide overall. I could do it with a Dremel if I wanted but he can do it alot nicer than I can with the mill. Will have it Friday.

This will allow me more choices in batteries.:D Never a bad thing.

Tabushi 08-20-2009 08:18 AM


Originally Posted by wyd (Post 6231643)
I talked to a fellow racer that I knew had a milling machine. He is going to modify my Wolf Battery tray evey so slightly so it will allow for square battery cases like the SMC packs have and about 1mm wide overall. I could do it with a Dremel if I wanted but he can do it alot nicer than I can with the mill. Will have it Friday.

This will allow me more choices in batteries.:D Never a bad thing.



Wyd,

2010 in my country LiPO will be allowed to race.

What is your opinion over the wolf aluminum battery tray ?, it allow to not add too much extra weight for LiPO minimum car weight ?. It worth it ?

thanks,

Pato Concha
Southamerica

wyd 08-20-2009 08:23 AM


Originally Posted by Tabushi (Post 6231731)
Wyd,

2010 in my country LiPO will be allowed to race.

What is your opinion over the wolf aluminum battery tray ?, it allow to not add too much extra weight for LiPO minimum car weight ?. It worth it ?

thanks,

Pato Concha
Southamerica

The Wolf tray is very nice. With the tray I'm just a tick over the ROAR weight limit which is 1420 grams. If I use the Orion 4800 Platinum lipo I think I'm at 1430 grams.

The nice thing with the Wolf battery tray is the extra weight is kept as low as possible on the car so handling is not affected like adding weight in some other places. Keeps all the weight located in the center of the car.

GCT69 08-20-2009 09:44 AM

is the kit for sale at wolfhobbies the newest or updated kits? would like to try one.

wyd 08-20-2009 09:58 AM


Originally Posted by GCT69 (Post 6232120)
is the kit for sale at wolfhobbies the newest or updated kits? would like to try one.

Wolf has a few different version cars listed on his site. He has the standard E4RS and E4FS in different configurations with spools, diffs or one way.

Wolf also has the DE Limited Editions that have about every option part you can think of for the cars. Some of the parts are customs parts that Wolf and drivers have developed and have had made for the car.

Pro10noob 08-20-2009 10:24 AM

Just a small question for you guys.
What is a E4RS going for in the states??
And by that i mean the E4RS 008 version?
No options with it.

cheers Roy

wyd 08-20-2009 11:14 AM


Originally Posted by Pro10noob (Post 6232308)
Just a small question for you guys.
What is a E4RS going for in the states??
And by that i mean the E4RS 008 version?
No options with it.

cheers Roy

Wolf has the FS on sale right now for 349.99

Here is his site so you can all the pricing for all the different configuration of E4 cars. http://www.wolfhobbies.com/cart.cgi?...484&child=6842

UltegraSTI 08-20-2009 11:53 AM

wonder why HT hasnt shown the love and posted Reigle's win on Jlap lol

R

Pro10noob 08-20-2009 02:05 PM

That is about the same as here in Holland for the E4RS.
Was just wondering if there was any difference in price.

cheers Roy



Originally Posted by wyd (Post 6232565)
Wolf has the FS on sale right now for 349.99

Here is his site so you can all the pricing for all the different configuration of E4 cars. http://www.wolfhobbies.com/cart.cgi?...484&child=6842


GCT69 08-20-2009 03:14 PM


Originally Posted by wyd (Post 6232181)
Wolf has a few different version cars listed on his site. He has the standard E4RS and E4FS in different configurations with spools, diffs or one way.

Wolf also has the DE Limited Editions that have about every option part you can think of for the cars. Some of the parts are customs parts that Wolf and drivers have developed and have had made for the car.

Just wondering it it's an 09 version?

tnx

wyd 08-20-2009 05:01 PM


Originally Posted by ultegrasti (Post 6232764)
wonder why HT hasnt shown the love and posted Reigle's win on Jlap lol

R

No love for WYD!!!!!!!!!!!!:lol: In all honesty I expct my car to be alot faster this weekend because I found out I had my Tekin set wrong and the new setup is alot faster and easy to see even not being on the track. Don't mean I will win or anything but I should have a ton more rip in the infield and straights.:eek::D

wyd 08-20-2009 05:04 PM


Originally Posted by GCT69 (Post 6233465)
Just wondering it it's an 09 version?

tnx

They are not the 09's. I talked to Wolf about that and his feelings are as long as he can get the non 09 cars he will because in his opinion the 09 car is not as good as the other versions.

TM made some changes but they left out a few higher end parts so in the long run you are better off with the cars he shows on his site.

Best bet is to call Wolf and as him the exact differences. I went with his suggestion and bought a E4FS to run rubber tire asphalt and carpet with and have not looked back. I'm sure either way the cars are all pretty good.

xray09ACT 08-20-2009 11:42 PM

A dirty rotten plug but my e4rs is for sale in the australian section

wyd 08-21-2009 10:09 AM


Originally Posted by xray09ACT (Post 6235348)
A dirty rotten plug but my e4rs is for sale in the australian section

Nothing wrong with letting people know you have an E4 for sale. Never know if other E4 racers are looking for another one.:D

John St.Amant 08-21-2009 10:12 AM

I have an E4FS07 for sale if anyone would like to make me an offer.
Don't worry I still have 2 others.

Pro10noob 08-21-2009 11:01 AM

Hey guys check the TM site...
We crazy dutchies made the news there again.
http://www.teammagic.com.tw/en/newsf...21131744-36511

http://www.teammagic.com.tw/en/newsf...21104333-07672


cheers Roy

Pro10noob 08-21-2009 11:05 AM

You got any pic's of the car??
Can you give me a PB??

cheers Roy


Originally Posted by xray09ACT (Post 6235348)
A dirty rotten plug but my e4rs is for sale in the australian section


Tabushi 08-22-2009 03:29 PM

Guys a little help here,

Finally we will not have rain tomorrow, so i have my first race with E4.

Today i did couple packs practicing and i really love the way the car goes, i practiced with one of the top local drivers and in the infield my car was able to catch this guy up and with a couple laps of pressure i can pass him, but on the main straight this guy always took like 6 cars of advantage over me.

I messed a little more with the pinion and spur, and ended with 68 spur and 38 pinion, wich its like 3.68 FDR.

I did a lot of temp checking and finally after 9 minutes of practice at race-pace (our races here are of 8 minutes), my motor ended with 163°F (73°C) ... if i check at 8 minutes exactly, its like 70°C (158°F), i know im like at the limit but my motor and car its running wow !!, they way i like it !!

So, what you would do ?, keep this setup ?, or go down 1 pinion teeth or up one spur teeth and loose performance to loose couple degrees ?.

Thanks !!

Pato Concha
Southamerica

Pro10noob 08-22-2009 03:38 PM

What ESC and motor are you running???

cheers Roy

Tabushi 08-22-2009 03:40 PM


Originally Posted by Pro10noob (Post 6241686)
What ESC and motor are you running???

cheers Roy


Novak GTB and Novak 13.5 SS PRO (with novak cooling fins), all this on 6 cells NiMH,

Track its outdoor asphalt,

thanks,

Pato Concha
Southamerica

Pro10noob 08-22-2009 03:52 PM

Nuts those i can't comment on as i don't know them to give you advice.
Is this motor rpm happy or has it more torq like the GM motors??
If it is like the LRP or the Tekin you can drop a teeth or 2 but if it is like the GM you could ad some.
Just try it out and see what happends.
I thought my LRP couldn't benefit from revving more but it did.
I now use mode 8 on a GM esc with my LRP 10.5 stock( 5 cells) and it go's like mad on the straight but i loose a bit infield so i am gonna drop a teeth or 2 to see how it works out.

cheers Roy

John St.Amant 08-22-2009 05:10 PM


Originally Posted by Tabushi (Post 6241673)
Guys a little help here,

Finally we will not have rain tomorrow, so i have my first race with E4.

Today i did couple packs practicing and i really love the way the car goes, i practiced with one of the top local drivers and in the infield my car was able to catch this guy up and with a couple laps of pressure i can pass him, but on the main straight this guy always took like 6 cars of advantage over me.

I messed a little more with the pinion and spur, and ended with 68 spur and 38 pinion, wich its like 3.68 FDR.

I did a lot of temp checking and finally after 9 minutes of practice at race-pace (our races here are of 8 minutes), my motor ended with 163°F (73°C) ... if i check at 8 minutes exactly, its like 70°C (158°F), i know im like at the limit but my motor and car its running wow !!, they way i like it !!

So, what you would do ?, keep this setup ?, or go down 1 pinion teeth or up one spur teeth and loose performance to loose couple degrees ?.

Thanks !!

Pato Concha
Southamerica


I'd leave it ... 170 is ok but .. it is your motor.

wyd 08-22-2009 05:25 PM

2nd weekend on the car. I didn't think this car car could get much better than last weekend but on the new layout they had down for the weekend my car was even better and faster. The changes I made from my setup I posted last week as I moved the shocks to the middles whole on the towers front and rear and I put a 1.5mm shim under the rear inner camber link ball stud. Also went to 6 degree caster blocks and 2mm of front droop.

I can't say enough how easy my car was to drive. I ran the fastest laps in 2 of 3 rounds but never did run a clean run and qualified 4th. I ran the fastest lap of the day in 17.5 but in the main had a tough start and got a big shot from behind on the first corner and my blody clip came out of the front mount and my body was standing up so I couldn't keep running.

I'm not mad it was racing but the car has already in 2 weeks proven to be very fast at are track.:nod: People can't beleive it is a Team Magic E4 and then laugh more when they see 48 pitch gears on it and a SMC 4100 24 C pack in it.:lol: Can't wait to try my car at another track but at least at my home track I have a car that is really dialed.:nod:

Wolf just sent my new alum goodies so I will put them on my car early this week and and see how much slop it takes out. My car has a good amount of slop but don't affect the car at all...........it tracks perfectly straight every run and I go many runs with out ever having to retrim the car.:D

Tabushi 08-22-2009 06:07 PM


Originally Posted by John St.Amant (Post 6241861)
I'd leave it ... 170 is ok but .. it is your motor.



Thanks a lot John, in fact i was almost done with the decition but needed that extra push on the back to LEAVE IT LIKE IT IS NOW :)

Hope to have a nice tomorrow day of race, will post results and experiences here, thanks a lot guys you are a hell of a great crew !!

cya,

Pato Concha
Southamerica

Tabushi 08-23-2009 09:02 PM

E4RS finished 4th place on the CACH Open Onroad Series 2009 Stage 06 in 13.5 brushless super stock class (Chile - Southamerica). Driver Patricio Concha qualified 2nd overall, and due to receiving a hit on the last lap, lost the podium (was 3rd at m ...inute 7 1/2 of the last 8 minute a-main). This is the first time a Team Magic E4 race in Chile. Thanks Wolf Hobbies for the tips and help around the car you gave me !.

Thanks a lot guys for all the help !!, this forum thread rocks !!.

Due to schedule problems, A-Main that usually its 2 rounds of 8 minutes, was only one. I had to be on the 2nd place podium, but i made couple personal driving mistakes (no one to blame about it) and i went down to 5h place, and then made my way up to 3rd. On the last lap (in fact like 10 meters before last loop pass), i got hit by a slower car and the XRAY guy that was trying to chase me got my position. I was SO MAD about it, but hey, its racing.

Im more than happoy with the car, only change i did over yesterday practice was to get out the side belt tensioner as its new and very tight. Car was as fast as top drivers in the country on the main straight (i think just a bit tad slower v/s 2-3 cars), but very agile and fast on the infield. Still need some setup work in order to improve 180° turn exit as it tends to slide the rear end a little more than desire, but for first race and just 2 days of knowing the car im more than happy with 4th place.

Once again, THANKS !!

Pato Concha
Southamerica

crius 08-24-2009 04:03 AM

I need help!!!
Which lipo fits on E4RS 09?!

My new SMC 4700mAh 40C+ dont fit :(

:confused::confused::confused:

wyd 08-24-2009 09:03 AM


Originally Posted by crius (Post 6247571)
I need help!!!
Which lipo fits on E4RS 09?!

My new SMC 4700mAh 40C+ dont fit :(

:confused::confused::confused:

Did you alread raise the topdeck with the 2mm spacers that TM has in the kit for that reason.

Batteries that I know for the stock plastic tray. SMC 3200 and 4100 lipos fir perfect. I use the 4100 24C this weekend in 17.5 and ran fast lap in 2 of 3 rounds. I would of TQed except for a few driving mistakes.:lol:

The Orion Platinum 4800 and 5000 packs fit perfect, as do the 3800, 3600 and 3200 Orions. Tracpower 3600 fit perfect as will the Triity IP3800's.

I know all these fit with the stock tray as I had everyone in my car to test the fit.

If you order the WOlf Hobbies steel lipo tray then let me know. Then I know all the Orions I mentioned fit and so will the IP3800. The SMC packs are more square and will need slight modifications to fit the Wolf lipo tray.

crius 08-24-2009 11:00 PM

2wyd

I don’t find SMC 4100 and Orion 4800 :weird:

I have indicated next dimensions:
SMC 3200mAh 40C
136x46.5x20.5 mm
Trakpower 3600mah 30C
137x47x20.8mm
Orion 3800mAh 30C
138x47x23.2
If Orion 3800 with H=23.2 well fit, can I place Trakpower 4900mah 25C (137x46x23) or HYPERION SWIFT 4000mah 35C (137x46x23)?
And what is the maximum length of lipo I can use without modifications?

What advantages gift lipo tray of wolf?

wyd 08-25-2009 03:13 AM


Originally Posted by crius (Post 6252481)
2wyd

I don’t find SMC 4100 and Orion 4800 :weird:

I have indicated next dimensions:
SMC 3200mAh 40C
136x46.5x20.5 mm
Trakpower 3600mah 30C
137x47x20.8mm
Orion 3800mAh 30C
138x47x23.2
If Orion 3800 with H=23.2 well fit, can I place Trakpower 4900mah 25C (137x46x23) or HYPERION SWIFT 4000mah 35C (137x46x23)?
And what is the maximum length of lipo I can use without modifications?

What advantages gift lipo tray of wolf?

The Orion and TrakPower will fit. The TrakPower 4900 will fit with the plastic tray.

The Wolf tray adds weight to the car when using a lipo. It keeps the weight low in the car. The Orion fits perfectly. This Orion 5000 is the same as the Orion 4800. This pack replaced the 4800.

http://teamorion.com/Products/SLPB+L...atinum+2+SLPB+

Solara 08-25-2009 10:37 AM


Originally Posted by Tabushi (Post 6241673)
Guys a little help here,

Finally we will not have rain tomorrow, so i have my first race with E4.

Today i did couple packs practicing and i really love the way the car goes, i practiced with one of the top local drivers and in the infield my car was able to catch this guy up and with a couple laps of pressure i can pass him, but on the main straight this guy always took like 6 cars of advantage over me.

I messed a little more with the pinion and spur, and ended with 68 spur and 38 pinion, wich its like 3.68 FDR.

I did a lot of temp checking and finally after 9 minutes of practice at race-pace (our races here are of 8 minutes), my motor ended with 163°F (73°C) ... if i check at 8 minutes exactly, its like 70°C (158°F), i know im like at the limit but my motor and car its running wow !!, they way i like it !!

So, what you would do ?, keep this setup ?, or go down 1 pinion teeth or up one spur teeth and loose performance to loose couple degrees ?.

Thanks !!

Pato Concha
Southamerica

Novak motor for 170 (outdoor) is good to keep...never go above 180, but I would definitely set it between 160-170 degree, temp it at the middle purple ring area (I take it that is the area you temp the motor, DO NOT temp Novak motor elsewhere).

I have run my 17.5 Novak SS motor outdoor this season with my E4RS with only stock setup thruout the summer and so far it is the fastest car at the track. But I am sure if I am running 13.5 the car will need more setup change. I am sure it is a good car to run for RCGT.

I am planning to use it for indoor carpet, which I will expect ALOT of works to do....outdoor is a lot easier then indoor carpet. I will have the 13.5, 17.5 and 13.5 foams for indoor carpet. All E4 with differenet parts and custom bottom plate especially for the foam car.

Solara 08-25-2009 10:50 AM

Do you guys find all these NEWER 30C 35C 40C or whatever mah lipo any BETTER, FASTER more PUNCH then some good old Orion 3800..? When you guys dealing with fitting lipo on E4RS, it is NOT a easy task. Battery with the SIDE exit power lead, or above exit power lead are PAIN to deal with (on E4RS)...

I used my left over 3600 and 3800 Orion with bullet plugs on my E4RS since day 1...ran indoor and outdoor, and I just don't see it is any slower/worst then my SMC5000, IB5000....etc. However, in order for me to fit the IB or SMC batteries...it is a total nightmare (ok, it is MY OWN nightmare...someone might like to do modification, I don't)...I have to add shim, remove the middle bridge, or add shim under the bridge, then find way to pull the battery lead to the speedo AND hope the side belt won't rub the wires...

If you can shell out extra $70...get yourself a 3800 Orion (or someone said Orion 4800 silver block will work too) and dedicated that for your E4RS. Again, it is LIPO...I race it, then charge it, and do it over and over...without even let it cool (well, I have plenty of time in between so it is cool enough to charge) and all my batteries are more then 1 years old...and still strong.

The best part is...my E4RS does not need to add shim or having that ugly dean plugs and wire all over. Direct bullet plug in the battery is what E4RS design for...by all mean, buy the bullet plug LIPO rather then the lead wire version.

or8ital 08-25-2009 11:37 AM

Im thinking about getting E4RS (not the 2009 version, the original). Anything I need to know about this car? Do batteries with bullet connectors work or does the top deck block one of the plugs? Any other battery fitment or other issues I need to know about? Any hop-ups or tuning parts I need to consider? Thanks.

Denis Zuikov 08-25-2009 02:10 PM

Want ask.
 
Hello, any one drive E4RS'09 on the carpet with 3.5 or 4.5 motor?
When i can fiend your setups?

Pro10noob 08-25-2009 02:21 PM

The newer cars are better suited for brushless and lipo then the original E4 but the E4 has more alloy parts on them tho.
It all depends on what cash you have to buy the other parts.

cheers Roy



Originally Posted by or8ital (Post 6254690)
Im thinking about getting E4RS (not the 2009 version, the original). Anything I need to know about this car? Do batteries with bullet connectors work or does the top deck block one of the plugs? Any other battery fitment or other issues I need to know about? Any hop-ups or tuning parts I need to consider? Thanks.


or8ital 08-25-2009 03:39 PM

Actually after doing more research Im leaning towards the Dave Ehrlich edition. Does it have battery or motor fitment issues?

wyd 08-25-2009 05:57 PM


Originally Posted by Solara (Post 6254522)
Do you guys find all these NEWER 30C 35C 40C or whatever mah lipo any BETTER, FASTER more PUNCH then some good old Orion 3800..? When you guys dealing with fitting lipo on E4RS, it is NOT a easy task. Battery with the SIDE exit power lead, or above exit power lead are PAIN to deal with (on E4RS)...

I used my left over 3600 and 3800 Orion with bullet plugs on my E4RS since day 1...ran indoor and outdoor, and I just don't see it is any slower/worst then my SMC5000, IB5000....etc. However, in order for me to fit the IB or SMC batteries...it is a total nightmare (ok, it is MY OWN nightmare...someone might like to do modification, I don't)...I have to add shim, remove the middle bridge, or add shim under the bridge, then find way to pull the battery lead to the speedo AND hope the side belt won't rub the wires...

If you can shell out extra $70...get yourself a 3800 Orion (or someone said Orion 4800 silver block will work too) and dedicated that for your E4RS. Again, it is LIPO...I race it, then charge it, and do it over and over...without even let it cool (well, I have plenty of time in between so it is cool enough to charge) and all my batteries are more then 1 years old...and still strong.

The best part is...my E4RS does not need to add shim or having that ugly dean plugs and wire all over. Direct bullet plug in the battery is what E4RS design for...by all mean, buy the bullet plug LIPO rather then the lead wire version.

If you can try a 4100 SMC lipo. I run the pack with wires coming out the front left side by the belt. The SMC packs fit well with the stock tray and since the all wires on them come out the top of the left front of the battery they fit perfect and don't come anywhere near the side belt. One of the best fitting packs I have found that have the built in wire setup.:nod: Now I did shim everthing up 2mm like the book shows for taller packs but the 4100 SMC could get away without doing that. I just have some stick on foam that I used under the top deck to take up any unwanted room from the batter to the topdeck. Works great.

wyd 08-25-2009 06:01 PM


Originally Posted by or8ital (Post 6255604)
Actually after doing more research Im leaning towards the Dave Ehrlich edition. Does it have battery or motor fitment issues?

If you use the new Novak Ballistic motors you will have zero motor issues with fit. It fits as good as a brushed motor would.

wyd 08-25-2009 06:08 PM

I just finished putting on the Wolf alum rear hubs, caster blocks, and steering knuckles. Man do they look great and fit together great. Did they really take out alot of the slop I had in those areas. I'm ready for Saturday racing now. Fit and finish on the parts is excellent and alot cheaper than the K Factory parts. If your looking for some aluminum for your E4 call Wolf at Wolf Hobbies and he will get you what you need.


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