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Originally Posted by marooko
(Post 6227301)
Those seem like really good tips. Sometimes I'll work on my Rustler for over an hour. Cleaning, replacing parts, etc. and it can be tiresome/aggravating. Maybe I'll keep that in mind next time; shorter work times.
Thank you Wyd. To you and the rest of the Castle team: Mad props. Thoroughly enjoying my MM ESC and motor. If your new to touring cars in general being in a hurry will get you nothing but problems. Touring cars are a precision type of car and like to be treated as such. Take your time and do things correctly the first time will save you alot oa headaches later. What you get away with doing for lack of better terms "half ass" will not fly with touring cars. Use the six P method: Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance (the 6 P's):lol: You can apply this saying to almost anything. I learned that after being a little older now. Wish I would of applied this alot more when I was in my teens and early 20's.:nod::D |
www.vgmodelbouw.nl sells stuf for TM in Holland
Has a lot in stock and what they don't have they can get in about a week cheers Roy |
I talked to a fellow racer that I knew had a milling machine. He is going to modify my Wolf Battery tray evey so slightly so it will allow for square battery cases like the SMC packs have and about 1mm wide overall. I could do it with a Dremel if I wanted but he can do it alot nicer than I can with the mill. Will have it Friday.
This will allow me more choices in batteries.:D Never a bad thing. |
Originally Posted by wyd
(Post 6231643)
I talked to a fellow racer that I knew had a milling machine. He is going to modify my Wolf Battery tray evey so slightly so it will allow for square battery cases like the SMC packs have and about 1mm wide overall. I could do it with a Dremel if I wanted but he can do it alot nicer than I can with the mill. Will have it Friday.
This will allow me more choices in batteries.:D Never a bad thing. Wyd, 2010 in my country LiPO will be allowed to race. What is your opinion over the wolf aluminum battery tray ?, it allow to not add too much extra weight for LiPO minimum car weight ?. It worth it ? thanks, Pato Concha Southamerica |
Originally Posted by Tabushi
(Post 6231731)
Wyd,
2010 in my country LiPO will be allowed to race. What is your opinion over the wolf aluminum battery tray ?, it allow to not add too much extra weight for LiPO minimum car weight ?. It worth it ? thanks, Pato Concha Southamerica The nice thing with the Wolf battery tray is the extra weight is kept as low as possible on the car so handling is not affected like adding weight in some other places. Keeps all the weight located in the center of the car. |
is the kit for sale at wolfhobbies the newest or updated kits? would like to try one.
|
Originally Posted by GCT69
(Post 6232120)
is the kit for sale at wolfhobbies the newest or updated kits? would like to try one.
Wolf also has the DE Limited Editions that have about every option part you can think of for the cars. Some of the parts are customs parts that Wolf and drivers have developed and have had made for the car. |
Just a small question for you guys.
What is a E4RS going for in the states?? And by that i mean the E4RS 008 version? No options with it. cheers Roy |
Originally Posted by Pro10noob
(Post 6232308)
Just a small question for you guys.
What is a E4RS going for in the states?? And by that i mean the E4RS 008 version? No options with it. cheers Roy Here is his site so you can all the pricing for all the different configuration of E4 cars. http://www.wolfhobbies.com/cart.cgi?...484&child=6842 |
wonder why HT hasnt shown the love and posted Reigle's win on Jlap lol
R |
That is about the same as here in Holland for the E4RS.
Was just wondering if there was any difference in price. cheers Roy
Originally Posted by wyd
(Post 6232565)
Wolf has the FS on sale right now for 349.99
Here is his site so you can all the pricing for all the different configuration of E4 cars. http://www.wolfhobbies.com/cart.cgi?...484&child=6842 |
Originally Posted by wyd
(Post 6232181)
Wolf has a few different version cars listed on his site. He has the standard E4RS and E4FS in different configurations with spools, diffs or one way.
Wolf also has the DE Limited Editions that have about every option part you can think of for the cars. Some of the parts are customs parts that Wolf and drivers have developed and have had made for the car. tnx |
Originally Posted by ultegrasti
(Post 6232764)
wonder why HT hasnt shown the love and posted Reigle's win on Jlap lol
R |
Originally Posted by GCT69
(Post 6233465)
Just wondering it it's an 09 version?
tnx TM made some changes but they left out a few higher end parts so in the long run you are better off with the cars he shows on his site. Best bet is to call Wolf and as him the exact differences. I went with his suggestion and bought a E4FS to run rubber tire asphalt and carpet with and have not looked back. I'm sure either way the cars are all pretty good. |
A dirty rotten plug but my e4rs is for sale in the australian section
|
Originally Posted by xray09ACT
(Post 6235348)
A dirty rotten plug but my e4rs is for sale in the australian section
|
I have an E4FS07 for sale if anyone would like to make me an offer.
Don't worry I still have 2 others. |
Hey guys check the TM site...
We crazy dutchies made the news there again. http://www.teammagic.com.tw/en/newsf...21131744-36511 http://www.teammagic.com.tw/en/newsf...21104333-07672 cheers Roy |
You got any pic's of the car??
Can you give me a PB?? cheers Roy
Originally Posted by xray09ACT
(Post 6235348)
A dirty rotten plug but my e4rs is for sale in the australian section
|
Guys a little help here,
Finally we will not have rain tomorrow, so i have my first race with E4. Today i did couple packs practicing and i really love the way the car goes, i practiced with one of the top local drivers and in the infield my car was able to catch this guy up and with a couple laps of pressure i can pass him, but on the main straight this guy always took like 6 cars of advantage over me. I messed a little more with the pinion and spur, and ended with 68 spur and 38 pinion, wich its like 3.68 FDR. I did a lot of temp checking and finally after 9 minutes of practice at race-pace (our races here are of 8 minutes), my motor ended with 163°F (73°C) ... if i check at 8 minutes exactly, its like 70°C (158°F), i know im like at the limit but my motor and car its running wow !!, they way i like it !! So, what you would do ?, keep this setup ?, or go down 1 pinion teeth or up one spur teeth and loose performance to loose couple degrees ?. Thanks !! Pato Concha Southamerica |
What ESC and motor are you running???
cheers Roy |
Originally Posted by Pro10noob
(Post 6241686)
What ESC and motor are you running???
cheers Roy Novak GTB and Novak 13.5 SS PRO (with novak cooling fins), all this on 6 cells NiMH, Track its outdoor asphalt, thanks, Pato Concha Southamerica |
Nuts those i can't comment on as i don't know them to give you advice.
Is this motor rpm happy or has it more torq like the GM motors?? If it is like the LRP or the Tekin you can drop a teeth or 2 but if it is like the GM you could ad some. Just try it out and see what happends. I thought my LRP couldn't benefit from revving more but it did. I now use mode 8 on a GM esc with my LRP 10.5 stock( 5 cells) and it go's like mad on the straight but i loose a bit infield so i am gonna drop a teeth or 2 to see how it works out. cheers Roy |
Originally Posted by Tabushi
(Post 6241673)
Guys a little help here,
Finally we will not have rain tomorrow, so i have my first race with E4. Today i did couple packs practicing and i really love the way the car goes, i practiced with one of the top local drivers and in the infield my car was able to catch this guy up and with a couple laps of pressure i can pass him, but on the main straight this guy always took like 6 cars of advantage over me. I messed a little more with the pinion and spur, and ended with 68 spur and 38 pinion, wich its like 3.68 FDR. I did a lot of temp checking and finally after 9 minutes of practice at race-pace (our races here are of 8 minutes), my motor ended with 163°F (73°C) ... if i check at 8 minutes exactly, its like 70°C (158°F), i know im like at the limit but my motor and car its running wow !!, they way i like it !! So, what you would do ?, keep this setup ?, or go down 1 pinion teeth or up one spur teeth and loose performance to loose couple degrees ?. Thanks !! Pato Concha Southamerica I'd leave it ... 170 is ok but .. it is your motor. |
2nd weekend on the car. I didn't think this car car could get much better than last weekend but on the new layout they had down for the weekend my car was even better and faster. The changes I made from my setup I posted last week as I moved the shocks to the middles whole on the towers front and rear and I put a 1.5mm shim under the rear inner camber link ball stud. Also went to 6 degree caster blocks and 2mm of front droop.
I can't say enough how easy my car was to drive. I ran the fastest laps in 2 of 3 rounds but never did run a clean run and qualified 4th. I ran the fastest lap of the day in 17.5 but in the main had a tough start and got a big shot from behind on the first corner and my blody clip came out of the front mount and my body was standing up so I couldn't keep running. I'm not mad it was racing but the car has already in 2 weeks proven to be very fast at are track.:nod: People can't beleive it is a Team Magic E4 and then laugh more when they see 48 pitch gears on it and a SMC 4100 24 C pack in it.:lol: Can't wait to try my car at another track but at least at my home track I have a car that is really dialed.:nod: Wolf just sent my new alum goodies so I will put them on my car early this week and and see how much slop it takes out. My car has a good amount of slop but don't affect the car at all...........it tracks perfectly straight every run and I go many runs with out ever having to retrim the car.:D |
Originally Posted by John St.Amant
(Post 6241861)
I'd leave it ... 170 is ok but .. it is your motor.
Thanks a lot John, in fact i was almost done with the decition but needed that extra push on the back to LEAVE IT LIKE IT IS NOW :) Hope to have a nice tomorrow day of race, will post results and experiences here, thanks a lot guys you are a hell of a great crew !! cya, Pato Concha Southamerica |
E4RS finished 4th place on the CACH Open Onroad Series 2009 Stage 06 in 13.5 brushless super stock class (Chile - Southamerica). Driver Patricio Concha qualified 2nd overall, and due to receiving a hit on the last lap, lost the podium (was 3rd at m ...inute 7 1/2 of the last 8 minute a-main). This is the first time a Team Magic E4 race in Chile. Thanks Wolf Hobbies for the tips and help around the car you gave me !.
Thanks a lot guys for all the help !!, this forum thread rocks !!. Due to schedule problems, A-Main that usually its 2 rounds of 8 minutes, was only one. I had to be on the 2nd place podium, but i made couple personal driving mistakes (no one to blame about it) and i went down to 5h place, and then made my way up to 3rd. On the last lap (in fact like 10 meters before last loop pass), i got hit by a slower car and the XRAY guy that was trying to chase me got my position. I was SO MAD about it, but hey, its racing. Im more than happoy with the car, only change i did over yesterday practice was to get out the side belt tensioner as its new and very tight. Car was as fast as top drivers in the country on the main straight (i think just a bit tad slower v/s 2-3 cars), but very agile and fast on the infield. Still need some setup work in order to improve 180° turn exit as it tends to slide the rear end a little more than desire, but for first race and just 2 days of knowing the car im more than happy with 4th place. Once again, THANKS !! Pato Concha Southamerica |
I need help!!!
Which lipo fits on E4RS 09?! My new SMC 4700mAh 40C+ dont fit :( :confused::confused::confused: |
Originally Posted by crius
(Post 6247571)
I need help!!!
Which lipo fits on E4RS 09?! My new SMC 4700mAh 40C+ dont fit :( :confused::confused::confused: Batteries that I know for the stock plastic tray. SMC 3200 and 4100 lipos fir perfect. I use the 4100 24C this weekend in 17.5 and ran fast lap in 2 of 3 rounds. I would of TQed except for a few driving mistakes.:lol: The Orion Platinum 4800 and 5000 packs fit perfect, as do the 3800, 3600 and 3200 Orions. Tracpower 3600 fit perfect as will the Triity IP3800's. I know all these fit with the stock tray as I had everyone in my car to test the fit. If you order the WOlf Hobbies steel lipo tray then let me know. Then I know all the Orions I mentioned fit and so will the IP3800. The SMC packs are more square and will need slight modifications to fit the Wolf lipo tray. |
2wyd
I don’t find SMC 4100 and Orion 4800 :weird: I have indicated next dimensions: SMC 3200mAh 40C 136x46.5x20.5 mm Trakpower 3600mah 30C 137x47x20.8mm Orion 3800mAh 30C 138x47x23.2 If Orion 3800 with H=23.2 well fit, can I place Trakpower 4900mah 25C (137x46x23) or HYPERION SWIFT 4000mah 35C (137x46x23)? And what is the maximum length of lipo I can use without modifications? What advantages gift lipo tray of wolf? |
Originally Posted by crius
(Post 6252481)
2wyd
I don’t find SMC 4100 and Orion 4800 :weird: I have indicated next dimensions: SMC 3200mAh 40C 136x46.5x20.5 mm Trakpower 3600mah 30C 137x47x20.8mm Orion 3800mAh 30C 138x47x23.2 If Orion 3800 with H=23.2 well fit, can I place Trakpower 4900mah 25C (137x46x23) or HYPERION SWIFT 4000mah 35C (137x46x23)? And what is the maximum length of lipo I can use without modifications? What advantages gift lipo tray of wolf? The Wolf tray adds weight to the car when using a lipo. It keeps the weight low in the car. The Orion fits perfectly. This Orion 5000 is the same as the Orion 4800. This pack replaced the 4800. http://teamorion.com/Products/SLPB+L...atinum+2+SLPB+ |
Originally Posted by Tabushi
(Post 6241673)
Guys a little help here,
Finally we will not have rain tomorrow, so i have my first race with E4. Today i did couple packs practicing and i really love the way the car goes, i practiced with one of the top local drivers and in the infield my car was able to catch this guy up and with a couple laps of pressure i can pass him, but on the main straight this guy always took like 6 cars of advantage over me. I messed a little more with the pinion and spur, and ended with 68 spur and 38 pinion, wich its like 3.68 FDR. I did a lot of temp checking and finally after 9 minutes of practice at race-pace (our races here are of 8 minutes), my motor ended with 163°F (73°C) ... if i check at 8 minutes exactly, its like 70°C (158°F), i know im like at the limit but my motor and car its running wow !!, they way i like it !! So, what you would do ?, keep this setup ?, or go down 1 pinion teeth or up one spur teeth and loose performance to loose couple degrees ?. Thanks !! Pato Concha Southamerica I have run my 17.5 Novak SS motor outdoor this season with my E4RS with only stock setup thruout the summer and so far it is the fastest car at the track. But I am sure if I am running 13.5 the car will need more setup change. I am sure it is a good car to run for RCGT. I am planning to use it for indoor carpet, which I will expect ALOT of works to do....outdoor is a lot easier then indoor carpet. I will have the 13.5, 17.5 and 13.5 foams for indoor carpet. All E4 with differenet parts and custom bottom plate especially for the foam car. |
Do you guys find all these NEWER 30C 35C 40C or whatever mah lipo any BETTER, FASTER more PUNCH then some good old Orion 3800..? When you guys dealing with fitting lipo on E4RS, it is NOT a easy task. Battery with the SIDE exit power lead, or above exit power lead are PAIN to deal with (on E4RS)...
I used my left over 3600 and 3800 Orion with bullet plugs on my E4RS since day 1...ran indoor and outdoor, and I just don't see it is any slower/worst then my SMC5000, IB5000....etc. However, in order for me to fit the IB or SMC batteries...it is a total nightmare (ok, it is MY OWN nightmare...someone might like to do modification, I don't)...I have to add shim, remove the middle bridge, or add shim under the bridge, then find way to pull the battery lead to the speedo AND hope the side belt won't rub the wires... If you can shell out extra $70...get yourself a 3800 Orion (or someone said Orion 4800 silver block will work too) and dedicated that for your E4RS. Again, it is LIPO...I race it, then charge it, and do it over and over...without even let it cool (well, I have plenty of time in between so it is cool enough to charge) and all my batteries are more then 1 years old...and still strong. The best part is...my E4RS does not need to add shim or having that ugly dean plugs and wire all over. Direct bullet plug in the battery is what E4RS design for...by all mean, buy the bullet plug LIPO rather then the lead wire version. |
Im thinking about getting E4RS (not the 2009 version, the original). Anything I need to know about this car? Do batteries with bullet connectors work or does the top deck block one of the plugs? Any other battery fitment or other issues I need to know about? Any hop-ups or tuning parts I need to consider? Thanks.
|
Want ask.
Hello, any one drive E4RS'09 on the carpet with 3.5 or 4.5 motor?
When i can fiend your setups? |
The newer cars are better suited for brushless and lipo then the original E4 but the E4 has more alloy parts on them tho.
It all depends on what cash you have to buy the other parts. cheers Roy
Originally Posted by or8ital
(Post 6254690)
Im thinking about getting E4RS (not the 2009 version, the original). Anything I need to know about this car? Do batteries with bullet connectors work or does the top deck block one of the plugs? Any other battery fitment or other issues I need to know about? Any hop-ups or tuning parts I need to consider? Thanks.
|
Actually after doing more research Im leaning towards the Dave Ehrlich edition. Does it have battery or motor fitment issues?
|
Originally Posted by Solara
(Post 6254522)
Do you guys find all these NEWER 30C 35C 40C or whatever mah lipo any BETTER, FASTER more PUNCH then some good old Orion 3800..? When you guys dealing with fitting lipo on E4RS, it is NOT a easy task. Battery with the SIDE exit power lead, or above exit power lead are PAIN to deal with (on E4RS)...
I used my left over 3600 and 3800 Orion with bullet plugs on my E4RS since day 1...ran indoor and outdoor, and I just don't see it is any slower/worst then my SMC5000, IB5000....etc. However, in order for me to fit the IB or SMC batteries...it is a total nightmare (ok, it is MY OWN nightmare...someone might like to do modification, I don't)...I have to add shim, remove the middle bridge, or add shim under the bridge, then find way to pull the battery lead to the speedo AND hope the side belt won't rub the wires... If you can shell out extra $70...get yourself a 3800 Orion (or someone said Orion 4800 silver block will work too) and dedicated that for your E4RS. Again, it is LIPO...I race it, then charge it, and do it over and over...without even let it cool (well, I have plenty of time in between so it is cool enough to charge) and all my batteries are more then 1 years old...and still strong. The best part is...my E4RS does not need to add shim or having that ugly dean plugs and wire all over. Direct bullet plug in the battery is what E4RS design for...by all mean, buy the bullet plug LIPO rather then the lead wire version. |
Originally Posted by or8ital
(Post 6255604)
Actually after doing more research Im leaning towards the Dave Ehrlich edition. Does it have battery or motor fitment issues?
|
I just finished putting on the Wolf alum rear hubs, caster blocks, and steering knuckles. Man do they look great and fit together great. Did they really take out alot of the slop I had in those areas. I'm ready for Saturday racing now. Fit and finish on the parts is excellent and alot cheaper than the K Factory parts. If your looking for some aluminum for your E4 call Wolf at Wolf Hobbies and he will get you what you need.
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