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I have a brand new E4 EP for sale. $330 shipped to the Lower US. PM for pics.
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Originally Posted by black_spl
(Post 4094230)
There are 2 versions of E4 on the market at the moment and the price are very close. I normally race on tarmac with medium-high grip, which version should I buy??
Has the FS version fixed all the issue we raise in this thread? Thanks E4 is for rubber tire and E4 FS is for foam tire best regards olivier |
Rc shopping is a "official" web shop of TM products.
http://www.rcshopping.com/index.jsp Greetings, Luis C. |
Originally Posted by ShadowAu
(Post 4091616)
I can understand why the front aluminum ones break if they are soft alloy, but why do the rear steel ones break as well? I also still don't understand why some people are breaking them and others aren't?
I dont think the 7075 is the key...the key is something like "spreingsteel" like the other brand uses..we do now rn Xrays T1 in the mod cars and they dont brake... |
Originally Posted by gansei
(Post 4076726)
i did not check my T1 CVD length..
i guess that 50,51,52 can be used. and TM will release front/rear 7075 alum NEW CVD!!! (had no pin protector) (previous CVD is 6065 alum). thank best regards olivier |
Originally Posted by nocif13
(Post 4096105)
i can be used the T2 CVD 52MM?
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ok
So we can use only T1 universial shaft? |
GANSEI
You have a picture to compare the shaft XRAY T1 and TM on the same photo ? Thanks |
Originally Posted by nocif13
(Post 4096358)
GANSEI
You have a picture to compare the shaft XRAY T1 and TM on the same photo ? Thanks i did not have the photo what you want.. i will try later.. and NEW 7075 E4 shaft is not released yet.. But it will be released soon. |
Originally Posted by gansei
(Post 4096534)
i am using T1 front/rear all..
i did not have the photo what you want.. i will try later.. and NEW 7075 E4 shaft is not released yet.. But it will be released soon. And one last question the AE spring are compatible whis a TM shock? |
http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/sho...ewpost&t=34757
have you got a set up sheet for carpet and rubber please thank |
Anyone know, if there is any possibility of releasing the extreme version of Foam Spec or the refined version of rubber spec??
Now I'm in this situation If I buy the first version (Rubber spec) I will have a lot of options aluminium caster block, aluminium pulley, but I will face with the problems that already raised in this thread i.e. drive shaft, delaminated belt, not compatible with Li-Po(need some modification) If I buy the Foam Spec I won't get those options as rubber spec. Plastic Caster block, plastic pulley. Plus I have to buy oneway diff. but I will get new belts(wider), new shock, stronger driveshaft, redesigned chassis, redesigned bellcrank, air duct. :weird::weird: |
Rubber version as you call it, is end of line so I'd go with the new FS.
http://www.rcview.com/showthread.php?t=93 |
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Originally Posted by nocif13
(Post 4096358)
GANSEI
You have a picture to compare the shaft XRAY T1 and TM on the same photo ? Thanks |
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my E4
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Hey I just got the E4FS Foam Ver. is there a setup for this car yet?
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E4 Movie
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This Movie is E4's Run in Korea Kirina Circuit.
i used Orion 3.0T BR motor and Much-More AT 28 tire. i recorded Best Lap 17.5 sec in this movie. But i recorded Best LAP again 17.056 sec with Much-More AT 32 tire. My Previous E4's Best Lap was 17.7 sec.. what a surprising growth!! :lol: and TOP CLASS GP Touring car average Best Lap was about 17.0 ~ 17.3 secs. But my G4RS(TM GP car) Best Lap was 16.6 sec. :lol: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkl3jXEPnjA |
the e4 win in a french regional 17T
http://teammagice4.blogspot.com/2008...-ligue-10.html setup for carpet http://NOCIF13.FREE.FR/E4_TRETS.pdf |
Originally Posted by microcrazy24
(Post 4112575)
It did look good on www.rctvlive.com The E4 is a VERY well made and thought out car. It should start building momentum now....Way to go Team Magic! |
hi does anyone no the spring rates for the kit springs?
thanks |
Mark you have mail!!
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Originally Posted by White_Masta
(Post 4126079)
British Menace |
Did anyone ave any info on the "new" rubber E4 ? Will it be similar to the Carpet car, but thinner chassi ?
When will it be available in the shops, or can the old be upgraded, is the fittnes better in that car? the stock one i have is heavely shimed. And one more thing, arnt the shops worldwide intrested of this car and it parts? i know 2 shops and they are most of the time out of parts...that can only means the car is weak or team magic dont produce parts enough or they arnt intressted having parts in stock? |
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In case anyone wants one - I have uploaded an interactive blank PDF set-up sheet to my website:
http://web.aanet.com.au/fir/bender/D...s/E4_blank.pdf It's based on the foam spec car but can be used just as well on the rubber car.:D |
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Is all the parts for this new version of E4 interchangable with the previous version? Seems like they realeasing an improve car every couple of months? LOL!!!
I don't even have a chance to race my car yet.:flaming::flaming::flaming: |
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE E4 sedan anD E4 rs?
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Originally Posted by nocif13
(Post 4133050)
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE E4 sedan anD E4 rs?
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
(Post 4133070)
They used a better grade 7075 aluminum. And it accomodate LIPO batteries. I have to modify my E4 to fit lipo. I'm just wodering if they race up the bulkheads to make the lipo fit ot if they modify the battery tray. Because on my E4 I have to shim (0.5mm) the the upper deck for my lipo to fit.
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
(Post 4133070)
They used a better grade 7075 aluminum. And it accomodate LIPO batteries. I have to modify my E4 to fit lipo. I'm just wodering if they race up the bulkheads to make the lipo fit ot if they modify the battery tray. Because on my E4 I have to shim (0.5mm) the the upper deck for my lipo to fit.
Ok not interesting to me because lipo is not approved in france thanks |
Originally Posted by Jochim_18
(Post 4133070)
They used a better grade 7075 aluminum. And it accomodate LIPO batteries. I have to modify my E4 to fit lipo. I'm just wodering if they race up the bulkheads to make the lipo fit ot if they modify the battery tray. Because on my E4 I have to shim (0.5mm) the the upper deck for my lipo to fit.
Ok not interesting to me because lipo is not approved in france thanks |
Has anyone run the E4FS on the rug yet? Likes, dislikes?
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Great start to the New Year
3 wins from 3 starts fastest race time and Fastest lap PLUS NO BROKEN DRIVE SHAFTS. I put Xray axles and Xray diff cups in the front of my car. Not sure what others used but the Xray ball is smaller than the TM ball so that is why I used Xay cups in my front one-way. I also tried a 6 cell pack vs 5 cell and got my fastest lap time with 5 cell due to the higher corner speed that the lighter car had. Power was down a little but man did it go around corners fast!!! Motor was a LRP 4.5 |
Team Magic E4 Thread
We have received a lot of email and phone calls asking: “What is the difference between E4 models”? “Which E4 should I get”? “I race on Carpet and asphalt. Do I have to buy two different cars”? Do you have all of these in stock?
What is the difference? The E4 is the original version. It has more machined aluminum parts than any other version, including; Aluminum pulleys, caster blocks and bottom battery door. It has a convertible (1 way independent, 1 way coupled and locked spool) quick change front 1 way and rear ball diff. This version is out of production and will never be produced again which is why we call it the Special Edition. The E4FS (stands for Foam Spec.) has a 3mm Carbon fiber bottom deck (chassis) and a 2.5mm solid top deck. The shocks have been improved to reduce friction on the shock shaft. The steering is a single rotating arm style to increase Ackerman effect for more aggressive turn in. The battery mount area has been changed to accept most LiPo batteries without any modification. The pulleys have a deeper tooth depth and the belts are wider. It uses front and rear ball diffs. The E4RS (stand for Rubber spec.) is like the E4FS with these exceptions; 2.5mm bottom deck and a 2 mm top deck with cut-outs. The steering is also twin parallel arm style to reduce Ackerman for a less aggressive turn in. It has a front 1 way and rear ball diff. Which E4 should I get? Do I need separate cars for Foam and rubber tires? First of all the E4 cars are unlike anything on the market. As an engineer and full size racecar builder I saw the advantages of centralized polar mass (putting the heavy items in the center of the car) but I had no idea it would make this big of a difference. The car is just amazing. If you like bling and are the type that is going to hop up the car with billet parts then the best kit is the E4. The bright aluminum parts and gold turnbuckles and carbon fiber chassis and steering parts make this car almost too nice to put on the track. Once you do put it on the track you will find that it is very neutral and easy to drive fast. It is also a very durable car. We let a lot of people drive it at several tracks and it took a real beating. To date we have not broken a single part on the car. It is still exactly as it was when we first put it together. After hundreds of laps it still has exactly the same readings on the setup station as it did when it was new. The E4RS is the production version of the E4. Many of the billet pieces have been replaced with injection-molded parts which is why it costs less. The E4 Special Edition is about $30.00 more. This is less than the cost of 1 billet part. This makes the E4 Special Edition a real bargain. The E4FS is the most versatile of the three models. The slightly thicker top and bottom decks have a weight penalty of only a few grams but they give you a stiff stable platform that removes one more tuning variable: Chassis flex. It is stiff enough for foam tires on carpet and by simply changing springs and shock oil it grips the asphalt like crazy with rubber tires too. This kit is my overall favorite electric racecar. I can get into the physics of it if someone asks but it would take a long posting that will bore a lot of people. One sweet aspect of this kit is that if the aggressive turn-in of the single arm steering does not suit your driving style, you can simply change to the twin parallel arm steering system (we have a kit with all the parts). It takes a few minutes and the holes are already in the top plate. If you insist on making the chassis more compliant we do stock the thinner E4RS top deck with the machined cut-outs. If you prefer a front 1 way or spool it just takes four screws to change either diff. This car can easily suit any race surface and any driving style preference. So the answer is no, you do not need to buy two cars. The answer to the last question is: Yes… We have the E4 and E4FS in stock. www.wolfhobbies.com In fact we are the only source in the world for the E4FS as we purchased the entire production run. We will order E4RS cars as requested. One other question we see a lot is: “What are the ratings on the springs in the 502134 spring kit”? 1.2mm 10lb 1.3mm 13lb 1.4mm 17lb 1.5mm 20lb 1.6mm 26lb 1.7mm 31lb 1.8mm 41lb 1.9mm 51lb |
Originally Posted by Wolf Hobbies
(Post 4143234)
As an engineer and full size racecar builder I saw the advantages of centralized polar mass (putting the heavy items in the center of the car) but I had no idea it would make this big of a difference. The car is just amazing.
1. How long will TM play around before they get the global distribution channel in place? 2. Is Wolf Hobbies the official TM importer, US distributer on record? Or just another importer until inventories run out and TM looks for another company with a promising plan and sales agenda to capture the US market. 3. If so, the TM website needs to reflect this. XRAY has RCAmerica. Losi has Horizon Hobbies. These are all long term and reliable relationships. Now Wolf Hobbies is now on the scene. Therefore, I will patiently wait to see how this pans out. 1. Is there going to be a nationwide sales promotion? 2. Are team driver being signed to promote the brand? 3. What is the long term financial commitment to get the E4 out of the starting gate. Team Magic needs to take some pages from the XRAY/Hudy and Much More play books. |
I have worked for r/c manufactures for 12 years now and have set up thousands of new accounts for hobby shops from the distributor stand point. It looks like wolf hobbies must a made a major deal with TM and some cash behind them and some b.s. stories, because it has a P.O. Box as an address of business, that usually a sign of a business that works out of it’s house with no store front. You would never be able to open an account with these criteria in the U.S. industry today. Leave it to TM to turn time back that has hurt this industry in the past by not looking into companies and their experience before they have chosen a company to distribute their products. Does money talk with TM? It looks like that by TM selling to their so called new distributor. It looks like TM is trying to break all the rules that have been established over the last 10 years for real honest established companies or hobby shops with store fronts. If wolf hobbies are the USA sole distributor, why do you have an on-line store selling cheaper than hobby shops, get you rear out there and find shops to carry your products, not promoting your own mail order to forums. Why don’t you have dealers on your web site that customers can go too purchase product? You should be pushing customers to your dealers not your own personal company, especially when shops have been buying product from you.
Why would TM not sign with an established company or has TM burned that many bridges in the USA? Is there any knowledge that comes with one of many new TM USA Distributors? In the past, TM has had zero dedication to its sole distributors that they have committed to, so that will never change. The company has buried itself in my book and I have owned four TM cars in the last 4 years and I will never buy one again. |
what's the largest lipo that the rubber spec can have?
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