Hi Roy, just got reply from that smart guy. Here are some thing you need to do:
1. Lathe a new shaft (I uploaded some pictures, the one with title of "two speed mod" and shows two shafts, the lower one is the shaft he lathed, upper one is the original E4RS part) and it must be thicker.
2. A Kyosho TF2 two speed shaft kit

The reason for thicker new shaft is to let the TF2 shaft (black one in the picture) can go through, and then use pin or screw to fix two shafts together. He used Kawada's spur gears, but I think any spur which can fit TF2 shaft will work. The pinion gears just need a little modification then you can put two in the motor shaft. I hope it helps:)

I think that piece was on T2 009. Since this car is very expensive, they must try to make it look worthwhile :lol:

Did you see the servo modification? I think it is pretty neat. They used Futaba S9551 in the car, but said BLS551 will be better. They claimed that it can make the motion smoother and better. I just ran my E4JS last week and didn't find anything wrong with the steering, so have not thought about this mod. But if you guys are looking for something to improve your cars, it may be worth trying

Whats the reason you added weight on the battery? For min weight rule? or fix the battery in the room?

I just seen that servo in a magazine. I'm sure my shop will order one in. My car steers great and actually more than need on are current layout.

I'm also looking at one of these new JR servos. Very similiar in performance of the 9551 but JR's version is the 9411. I had alot of success with JR servos in the past.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=JRPSDS9411

Did you notice the difference? The servo is mounted with stand up way not lay down

Is the 2 speed also from the TF2? or from another car??

cheers Roy



The reason for thicker new shaft is to let the TF2 shaft (black one in the picture) can go through, and then use pin or screw to fix two shafts together. He used Kawada's spur gears, but I think any spur which can fit TF2 shaft will work. The pinion gears just need a little modification then you can put two in the motor shaft. I hope it helps:)

Yes, it is

My servo is mounted in the standard postion with Yeah Racing aluminum servo mounts. Mounts are only 7 dollars and look they where made for this car, especially if I polished them then they would look total factory.

My steering is smooth so to be honest I have no reason to change my servo from the stock postioning.

Tonight I'm going to make some different size swwaybars since they are so easy to do. I can actually buy any brand with the sizes I want and then use my Dremel and cut them to length. The E4 has the best swaybar setup of any touring car I have used. Simple and easy to make different sizes.

Yeah, totally agree, the anti-roll bar is the best one among all cars I have ever had, easy to adjust and works nicely

Anyone knows where can i buy firmer sway bars for the E4RS2009 ?, usually im a no-bar racer, but i noted and felt the bar effect on my E4, im not using the front, only rear, and its great, but th bar effect its too soft and i want to try a firmer one,

thanks,

Pato Concha
Southamerica

Hi guys, i need a little help here ...

Last race where i debuted with the E4 and got 4th place, we used this layout :

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...9/anterior.jpg



Now, this weekend i have another race on same track, but the new layout its :

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...009/Sept06.jpg


Last race, i used 3.68 FDR on 13.5 brushless and it was almost perfect, good low end power and enough speed on the straight to be on par with 95% of the fastest guys.

Now, for this new layout you would use the same ?, or would be good to test some different ?, maybe a little higher FDR as this layout does not have long straight sections ? (right now im on 38T Pinion + 68T spur, maybe going to 70T spur would be better ?).

thanks in advance, all opiniones welcome !!

cya,

Pato Concha
Southamerica

I'm going to just make my own. The stock ones are 1.2 so I will either buy a swaybar kit for another car and just cut them in 4 straight equal lengths like the stock ones or I will just buy wire in different thickness and again just cut them to length.

SHould take me about 5 minutes to make my sways. Just need to go to my local shop and buy the wire to make them.

Has anyone checked their rear toe in on one of the numberous gauges on the market? I have the arrows both going out in the rear that should give me the most rear toe in at 2.5 on my E4FS and the gauges are only showing about 1 degree rear toe in. Front both arrows are pointing in so I should have 1.5mm of front arm sweep.

2nd question is I just looked at the car and looking to raise my roll centers in the front 1mm. I see the front a arm mount attaches to the bulkhead but it looks like it has a 2ns screw hole in it as if I do use 1mm spacers I would use the 2nd set of holes (at least on the front). Not sure since I never took the car fully apart yet and the directions are not clear on that part.

70T spur may be a good idea, but I would stay with current setup and see how I feel about the new track

For starters stay with present FDR and see how it works out.
As i think the track now is,is that you have 2 shorter straights instead of one longer straight.
You still have the same sort of infield so try what you have now and if you lack a bit of top speed you can go a teeth or 2 up on the motor pinion.


cheers Roy

Did you check the front points of your rear suspension points??
Those you can change 2.
Mine E4FS has 3 toe in at the rear but that is because i use the K-factory rear bearing hubs.

cheers Roy

Don't know I could change anything their except for maybe raising the roll center. Guess I will have to take a look at that tonight. I only ever took the rear toe block off but never anything more than that. So does it change like the back toe plate with those two inserts? You can put them in or out like the rear ones? If that is the case I see know why my toe in is showing only one degree of rear toe. I did look at the blow up the car and see it does have those same blocks for the front of the rear arm but it looks like it only goes up or down (to raise the roll center but not change the toe at all in the front of the rear arm?) I could easily be wrong on this.

I guess tonight I will be tearing a little more off the car as it seems I'm missing out on using some adjustments the car has.:lol:

Funny when I had all the gauges hooked up on the car it showed no more than 1 degree of rear toe in. Looks like I need to check out that part your telling me about. Guess I'm going to learn something new tonight about my TM E4.:nod:

hi

how will it change, if the arrows going up or down in the front of my rear suspension?

If the arrows only show up or down then the only thing you can change is the rear caster then:weird:
Hmmmm on my E4RS i have deffo 2.5 toe in at the rear and on my E4FS i have 3 toe in but that is because i have the K-factory rear bearing hubs.
Perhaps there are some parts different between those 2 cars???
Update...Parts are te same so both cars have the same adjustment futures on the rear toe in
@Wyd you should get 2.5 toe in with that setting as it is per standard 1.5

cheers Roy

Use the same final drive and run the new layout for 2-3 minutes and temp the motor...I've never adjust my FDR because of the layout, I adjust my FDR to the motor TEMP first...then, I will determine I should gear up or down because of the layout...

Your newer layout is more open (less technical) , so if you have room to gear up (bigger pinion) go for it...

As soon as I get off work I will be working on my car. I know I should have 2.5 as the setting I have on the rear now but I have two different sets of gauges and both show right at abotu 1 degree of rear toe. I have the Wolf Hobbies alum rear hubs but those have 0 toe built in like the stock hubs. I will mess with it as soon as I can. You have my interest peaked on this.

Funny thing the tow showed the same with the stock plastic rear hubs as well.:D I will get her checked out asap.:nod:

Not complaining as my car is glued at are high bite track but if I get to a slippery surfance I will need to get to at least the 2.5 rear toe.

Isn't it K-Factory has a beefier sway bar kits for E4? I know I used one for my foam E4

Ok I figured out the rear toe in thing. Apparently the Wolf Hobies aluminum rear hubs have a left and right side to them. The hubs where marked with a L and R on them via marker. I put them on as marked and never thought twice about it. I did checkit on the gauges and it always showed 1 degree even with the toe block being set at 2.5.

So long story short after tearing the rear of the car apart for what ever reason I rotated the rear hubs. I immediately seen the differance but I checked on the gauges and it was 2.5 rear toe per side. So I took of the L&R and put new labeling on them for Left and right. Problem now solved except I have been use to running 1 degree of rear toe for the last 2 weeks.:lol: I'm going to try 2.5 but if I don't like it I can go to 1.5 or put on my K Fatory rear block and go to 1.0 if I need to.:nod:

It was nice to tear the car down some to see what is going on with it. Really will help me if I want to change the rear and front roll centers now that I see how its done.

I have LRP TC and Trinity Duo 10.5 BL
In XRAY I have had FDR = 5.49 for this motor.
In E4RS i have 64P with 110T
Could I use this FDR for E4RS?
If I right understand I could use 41,42,43 pinion, but they big (I think).
Can you recommend me spur and pinion?

What FDR do you use for 10.5 BL?

Depends on what track your driving.
As for the Xray FDR i think it's a short tech track.
If that FDR is ok then you can use it on the E4RS 2
With a 110 spur and a 41 pinion u get a FDR of 5.52.
If you go with a higher pinion your FDR will be lower.
If you go for 48dp spur you can use the 80 spur gear and a 31 pinion and then you get 5.49 FDR.
It all depends on what track you drive on.
I my self drive with a FDR between 4.24 and 4.36 but that depends on what motor i use.

cheers Roy

I`m understand it, but I`m worry about size of 41T pinion. If it very big I`m don`t fit my motor...
May be I could try spur 88T and pinion 33T?

That would also give a 5.49 FDR so that will do:D:D
88/33x2.0588=5.490133333333

cheers Roy

Once you get the motor in your car you can then mess with geting the gearing you need. WIth the motor in your car you will be able to see how much room you have for the motor to move and then you will be able to change the gears as needed to get the final drive ratio your looking for.

Well after a long practice session on Friday and thru most of racing Saturday my E4 handled pretty bad. After doing everything I could the car just had too much steering and would traction roll. After all my struggles I simply put the 3 degree caster blocks back on and problem completely solved and the car understeered. I just need to change my car back to the way I had it so I could get my steering back. A learning experiance for sure with this car. I never had any touring car act like this when using 6 degree caster blocks. Car just had massive steering in the middle of the corner and exiting the corner.

Overall though got the car dialed in and learned alot this weekend.

Wyd if you have that problem again try to shorten you rear turnbuckles and take the inner point on your rear hub and put a 3 mm spacer on the bulkhead side.
This will get your car really smooth and you can slam the power on exiting corners.
Had a similar problem and did this and the car is very solid on the back side now.
I am not very font of the 6 degree casterblocks as they tend to give way to much steering where i race and what ever you do you won't get the rear to get a grip with that.
If i want a smooth rear end with the 6 degree caster blocks then i have to take very soft tires on the rear but i smoke them after a minute or 2 and all traction is gone.
Don't know if you use the sway bars??
If so try to remove the rear one and see what happends when using the 6 degree casterblocks.
When using the 3 degree casterblocks and you don't have have enough steering ad a thicker swaybar at the rear or remove the front one.
Hope this will help you.

cheers Roy

Thanks Roy. I don't think I will run those 6 degree caster blocks again anytime soon.:lol:

When you run the 4 degree caster blocks do you still run the 3mm spacer under the ball stud on the bulkhead? When you shorten the rear turnbuckle are you shortening it up on the bulkhead side or on the hub?

Right now I run middle hole on the hub and inner most hole on the bulkhead.

By the end of the night for the main my car was really feeling good and smoother than it has even been. It was a pleasure to drive. Car is very close to being perfect.

I shorten the totall lenght of the turnbuckle.
I do use the 3 mm spacer even with the 3 degree caster blocks and i have the turnbuckle on the middle hole on the bulkhead and the inner hole on the hub.
The tires tat i run are normally LRP Vtec 30r but they tend to wear very fast at the front.
At the moment i am running Lrp's on the rear and Sorex 28 on the front.
The Sorex are for some reason less prone to wear even if they are of a softer compound.
Funny how a different track can affect your settings but the basics stay the same:D:D

cheers Roy

Will see how my car is once I take it outside on the asphalt. I'm not going to make many changes other than I'm going with all new titanium tie rods and new heavy duty ball ends. I also need to take a little anodize off where my bearings fit into the alum. caster blocks. They fit a tad tight so I will lightly sand the bearing opening.

Once I run it outside I will see what if any changes I need to make.

I did a little work tonight on my aluminum caster blocks. The bearings fit a little tight and would pinch tbe bearing some so it wasn't near as smooth as it could be. Did a little light sanding to remove some of the anodize and now the bearings fit perfectly and the steering is really smooth with zero ninding.

I did forget to mention I did order the HPI A748 belt that I saw a few others have run instead of the stock side belt. I think MarcoJ was the one that mentioned and did some testing with this setup and had excellent success.

So after remember that I had my shop order me two belts. Hey they where cheap enough so I thought I will try it out.

My stock side belt I been running for about 4 or 5 races now and two practice days. Belt is nice and soft and fits loosely. The front and rear belts are also nice and soft and very free. I can't complain about my drivetrain as it is very free and smooth with no super loose or tight spots. Just the same all the way around. I didn't even clean out my bearings or try ceramics yet because everything is super smooth.

Might get some Acer ceramic bearings for next year when the outdoor season starts up again.

Ran my car today and it was pretty good overall. Car worked really good on my old rubber tires and not as good on a set that had about 8 to 10 runs on them. The old set has at least 4 weeks on them but my laptimes where still on par with new tires so I just kept running them. Hey if they work why change them.

Car was super consistant. Now need to work a little more on getting a setting on my Tekin speedo that I like and I will be super happy.:nod:

Oh I seen Dave Erlich was in the A with his DE E4 at the Vergas race. Dave if you check in at all nice job.:nod: Would really like to see a post on the Vegas race and any info on your car.

Dave's car looked real well this week :nod:

I saw he qualified very well so the car does work well but now TM just needs more guys promoting the car and getting others to try them.:nod:

We hear you. We are accepting applications for driver sponsorships (various levels) and Team Captains. We are looking for drivers that can showcase the car. Drop us a line and we will see what we can do.

A good starting point for pinions is:


Due to the wide range of motors and their final drive ratio (FDR) requirements, a spur gear is not provided. For best results and maximum adjustment range the following basic pinion and spur table will place your motor roughly in the middle of its adjustment range.

FDR Pinion Spur
10.0 25 120
8.0 28 110
6.0 35 104
5.0 41 100
4.8 42 100
4.6 45 100
4.2 46 94
3.8 49 92

Hey Wolf nice to hear from you. Hope to see you and Dave post more. The more info the better for all of us. I do need to order a few more things in the next few weeks so I will be in touch.

Thanks for your help over the last few weeks when I called out to talk with you.

Brian