Thanks dad!!LOL!
I will listen!!

My E4 worked much better with the Tamiya TRF shocks but the chassis was so whacked from all the changes I made to make it work before the shock change. Yes those original E4 shocks seemed OK at first but I do not care for them now. So it's back to finding time to set up the car for carpet with 13.5, rubber and one-way.

I found that Dave's set-up was rather useless and made the car very loose plus a lot of the information was missing.

One last question, where do you measure droop in front? The hub, the end of the arm, the front of the arm or the back?

Front of the arm at the end

Running the tc5 i used just the drrop gauge, switching to the e4 i use the over ride height method. My rubber tire car was like 1.5 mm in front and 2 mm in rear. just use 10mm blocks and use a ride height gauge.what setup do you have on now?

i dont know about daves setup, but weezy has a great setup for 17.5 or 13.5 rubber tire on carpet..pretty much stock set up except springs..i beleive 17 lb fronts and 12 lb rears...and i tink shocks in one mor ehole on rear tower..correct me if im wrong lil weezy...i drove his car at snowbirds and was dialed..very consistant and easy to drive

but his setup uses a spool...it doesnt lack anything to a one way..and much more consistant...didnt even hae to use brakes...im telling you it worked great...he was waaaaaay underpowered at snowbirds and still made the a

False economy?
 

Hi

I followed this thread for weeks before finally biting the bullet and buying a E4 RS from Team Magic Europe, they do still exist (well sot of). I've found the information on this site very useful and even though it appears to be running out of steam slightly I still dip in every now and then to see what's happening.

I've been running my E4 RS for a couple of months now on an indoor carpet track on rubber tyres and I'm impressed, it responds well to setup adjustments, it's pretty tough and any worries I had about extra drag being generated from the third belt were completely unfounded. You could probably double the number of belts on the car and you wouldn't notice it if you're running a brushless/LiPo setup ;)

It's now time for me to place an order for some spares and I've noticed that the suspension arms for the E4JS are a little cheaper, the only difference I can see between them and the RS ones are the metal tubes moulded into them. I know the price difference is negligible but has anyone else used the JS arms? Is there any reason why I shouldn't go for the cheaper ones?

One last question: After approx' 60 minutes run time my side belt is now pretty "baggy" and has popped off despite the belt tensioner. Is it worth me getting a Kfactory replacement? Do they resist stretching any better?

Thanks :)

Spike::
Well it is hard to beat perfection right out of the box!!!:lol:
The Kfactory belt does seem like it will not give as much but I have not run mine as much as you have, maybe only four races total other than going out ans setting up cones and running in a parking lot.
Your drive train is probably as freed up as it is going to get, which is good, I have mine really good now since I have installed better bearings, I just used metal shielded ones blasted them out and relubed them really good.
I can now take and spin the tires with the motor and pinion installed and it will free wheel a couple turns as it would barely turn at all with the factory bearings at first when I got it.
As far as the j parts, I have no clue if they would work or what, they may flex more since there is no reinforcment but I would not imagine that it would be much. But if you are running on carpet with it as stated and not asphalt then you really do not want that much flex.
Good louck and let us know if you order those parts and they work out for you.

Where can I get E4 parts?
 

I'm looking an online source for E4 parts. I've looked at Wolf's site and theres hardly any parts listed. I saw the RC Mushroom has some parts but its not complete either. Can anyone please provide a link? Thanks.

Wolf should have everything you need. If you don't see something drop him an e-mail. You can also try www.rcmanufactory.com

+1

rcmanufactory have² 90% PARTS in stock,CONTACT PETER lee for order and stock
best regards

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/index.jsp


Wow I just went to www.rcmanufactory.com
and saw the prices.. I freaked out there for e minute till I noticed Hong Kong Dollar. Which is about 8:1 on a U.S. Dollar. I bet this is where .... Oh... never mind

What happened to all the parts on wolf hobbies?

Wow not good. Let's hope it's a glitch on his site.

I noticed that too yesterday as I was trying to order some stuff. There is a glitch somewhere, I had to open it up and retry it a few time but everything is there. You can also look it up by part number if you have it sometimes.

Hey guy just getting my e4rs together. I was wondering about different springs. Ive looked all over and was unable to find any other TM springs othere than what come with the kits. Whats everybody using? Thanks for the info in advanced.

Randy I use the Kfactory springs, both Dave and Erik at TZ use Corally springs you will be good if you use your AE springs.Did you get everything figured out?
Mike

Which would be the basic spare list for E4JS ? ... i ended selling my TC4 and planning going back to 13,5 brushless touring with a E4JS

ps : Which its the cheaper place to buy one ¿? (i will be the only one in the country with a TM electric)

thanks,

Pat

http://wolfhobbies.com/ is where I get my parts from in the US

Yeah I got most of it figured out. Ive tried the AE springs but I cant get the car down to ride height. Ill look into the corally springs.

r dog if you are using the associated spring you have to use the associated retainer, and cut off the bottom lip. I only use them on the rear and it works out to get ride hight

I usually buy from RC-Mushroom, they not only have Team Magic and Kfactory. Also, they have other brands that I need too.

you can use the AE springs but you will have to use the TC5 bottom shock collars and you will have plenty to get the correct ride height.

Now Available!

Questions/Interest PM or visit my thread.

Also I'd like to thank cvccsi for test fitting for me on his E4. I appreciate it buddy!


Team Magic E4 For #503105 chassis

http://home.mchsi.com/~caeser720/E4.JPG

i watched rctvlive again and man i laughed when i saw wolf. that race must have been a blast becuase he looked liked he had been up partying all night. he was probably out of dollar bills $$$$$$$$$
'

I wish i was there:nod:

I've had to shelve my E4JSs in TA. I can't get any more out of them. I've found the problem, but no idea how to solve it. The car does not roll free. The front side shaft spins free with no load, but binds as soon as side belt is put on the car. There is no tension on the side belt and its still too tight. I've done the WD40 soaking and tried some manual stretching. I swear if it had 1 or 2 more teeth, the car would loosen up and come alive. I've seriously spent too much time and money trying to prove a point that an inexpensive car can win and stay cheap.

Any help would be appreciated.

I had a great time with my E4JS last weekend. It works great for outdoor parking lot.

I think you may need to disassemble the car and reassemble it again at the area that is binding. Perhaps your chassis or bulkhead is tweaked from improper fit or assembly.

picture of E4RS09

http://teammagice4.blogspot.com/2009...nouveaute.html

I've been led to believe the WD-40 Belt therapy is not the way to go. I could not justify the $$$$ for the K-Factory belts, however, at the suggestion of TM driver Dave Ehrlich, get some "Automotive grade" Belt Dressing, (for V-belts on real cars), and treat the back sides of all your belts. This did help my E4FS. He also recommended removing "All of the Bearings" from the car, and soaking them in Denatured Alcohol for 24 hours, then blow them out with compressed air and don't lube them with anything. Then carefully reassemble your car, run the belts as loose as you can get away with.

I have installed the Kfactory belts and they have all loosened up with some run time on the car. I know that they are more money but they have really made a difference in my car. I di absolutely nothing too them after talking too others and about every other run I have to check them for tension. I try to get out and run in an open parking lot that is new near me and run the car everyday that I can for about twenty to thirty minutes and then take it home and blow it off real good and check everything. I can now free spin the car with the motor and pinion installed on it easily now that they belts are broken in.

That's just the problem, they don't get any looser and there is no tension added at all via the belt tensioner. The belts are binding the front shaft. I free spin the side belt with no pinion and get maybe a second of rotation. I do that to my XRAY or TC3 and they spin for 5 to 10 seconds with the rotational mass of just the tires. I know its a different car, but it should roll much smoother than this. The current belts are 4 months old and have been raced and practiced with for countless hours. I tore the car down to parts, cleaned (including the bearings) and reassembled. No luck. These are really some of the coolest cars around, but the slaving loss I'm experiencing can't be dialed out. There is no negative tension adjustment to loosen the drive line. It seriously needs a belt with one or two more teeth on it to start with and one more tooth on the front and back pullies as well. I'd say its a fluke, but I have 2 of them and they're both the same. Running 21.5s, they just get driven down no matter how good the driver is and I've had the best locals drive them and tune on them in the search for performance. New belts aren't an option as I'm not willing to sink another $70.00 in parts into them at the moment. They really are the best handling cars.

I had to remove the front tensioner when I first got the car with the factory belts on it. After a month I got he Kfactory ones and now I have no problems with them, even though I run the front tensioner as high as I can. Good luck I hope you find something to work. I am still getting used to this car right now and trying to learn to adjust it myself, just not getting the results I would like, but I will keep trying.

my E4 rs09

Lookin' good man! Nice alu. parts too...
I think I'm goona pimp mine out like that too but add a K-Factory bumper.

Ok... this may sound a bit strange but ...
A few holes , A couple bearing blocks, 4 beveled gears....
Yes Zosha! A side drive shaft.

How about that Dave Ehrlich. Thrashed his way to the Modified A Main at the Nats, driving an inspired run with his Team Majic hotrod. Super stuff ol' chap.

Jacko

Raise the front layshaft housing (the one with the two small pulleys near the front of the car) by 1mm. This will loosen both the front and middle belts - makes quite a difference!