I hear you on that one man. I wish there was a billet 18t pully kit for the whole car . I'd buy it !

Doesn't the new 2009 version of the E4 address a lot of these issues? I think I read about it on Redrc.net nd it was linked to Team Magic's site.

It would appear that the exploded view listed against the '09 car just shows the same old pulleys and does not differentiate between the side pulley and the centre pulley ref PDF link below which was posted on the TM website last year but has it listed against the '09 car
http://teammagic.com.tw/Download/E4R...ded%20View.pdf

I think I shall use ligthweigh 17t pulleys in the centre and Aluminium on the sides to over come this problem as I need yo sort it out before Sundays racing!

I think that's what you need for the center pulley, part# 503236
http://www.teammagic.com.tw/en/profr...3236&pageNum=1

The 18t pulleys change the IR of the car. They are used when running foam tires. The 18t pulley can only be used up front when running a ball diff. If you’re having belt-shipping issues try the new PU belts they are a little tight at first but they break in nice. The 09 comes with the new belts.

I have a couple sets of the old belts NIP front, back and center if anyone needs some. My 21.5s haven't even stretched the originals out in the 3 months I've been running them.

I think my E4 will make a great T/A.

They sure do.

What are you guys running with on the pin/spur??

Mine like a 94/43. I have a good balance between acceleration and top end and the motor comes off around 120 to 130.

These will be available soon for anyone who might be interested.

Custom Cut Urethane Chassis Protector for Team Magic E4 #503105 chassis!

http://home.mchsi.com/~caeser720/E4.JPG

Aren't you allowed to gear it 4.2 final?

The motor gets way too hot at 4.2. We experimented and the car started losing time the further we got away from a 4.4 in either direction. It might just be my cars, but its the same for both. If my driving and my son's wasn't so awful, they would probably finish in the top 5 every week.

Good 2 Know kinda info !:tire:

hi
how many?
best regards

As many as you want once there ready, doing final fitment tests. Post interest in my thread using link in my signature and I will keep you posted once available. I'm planning on a intial production run next week.

Thank you for your interest.

need some advice guys? thinking of buying the tub version? would this be an 09 ed. also how is it on foam/rug racing? parts, are they easy to get? TNX

HI
OK FOR THIS NEWS
how this fixed? STICKER?
THANK OLIVIER

The tub version is the E4JS and fits the 08 components.

Its self adhesive and made from same urethane material used for paint protection on real vehicles.

Congratulations Dave Ehrlich for making the A-Main in Pro Mod!

Well done at the birds....mind if he can share his Mod foam setting.? (I assumed that is FOAM right..?)

hey guys just wanted to post a few things about the birds race...all of the cars looked really good...dave made the main in mod foam, and 10.5 rubber..and ryan cooper bumped up from the b main in 17.5 rubber...i got a deal from wolf hobbies on saturday night..built...well completed the build of an e4 rs...thanks wolf...only got to practice 2 packs on sunday before the mains...car was absolutely dialed..ended up witha fast lap of 11.4 compared to my fast lap of 12.0 from the car i have been running for over a year now..all i have to say is wow...cant wait to actually get some time with this car...and again for all the guys with wolf hobbies...you know who you are..thx for the help..from myself and ryan...they(wolf) have some greart ideas and products coming out in the very near future for the car that will fix some of the smalll problems...anyways thanks again guys.. will be reporting more on the car in the near future:nod:

Whats up y'all just got back from the birds..... all i can say is that was a long weekend! thanks for all the help from wolf hobbies, wease and dave. This was my first time meeting them and they are all great people. Car came along way from day one to the mains but it made it there. Everyone says that the car has to much drag for stock but i squeezed it into the a main in 17.5. there was alot of factory guys in that class so the car has alot of potential. I am gonna try to post my setup here in the next couple of days but gotta get back to work and start paying off the week haha. Any questions or anything just post them, wease is going to be home soon as well his foam car was bomb but there was a glitching problem with all the antennas in the room. later guys and good luck

picture and result to the french regional 1/10th 13.5 and lipo

http://teammagice4.blogspot.com/

Good job at the birds fellas, looking forward to your setups.

Also liljohn1064 can you could post your VTA setup. The VTA class is starting to take off at my local track. thanks

question about the tub chassis? do they have chassis tweak ust like most tub chassis(speaking about my TA05 chassis).

Tnx, would like to know before I buy.

What are you team guys doing to free up the drive train??? I have the factory belts, soaked them over a day, they have given alot. I have good aftermarket bearing in the entire car, cleaned out the grease and relubed them. I have gone in and massaged out the cvd's front and rear. Is there anything I am missing??? I can remove the pinion gear and spin the front spool and I only get like two revolutions. Belts have no tension on them either as I think they are loose.

try soaking the belts with wd40. It worked for me.

E4JS:

I'm using the G4 23 mm tall springs. Light greens in back, light blue greens up front, 40 Wt oil front and back. I Run Associated Spring cups to lower the car.
Ride height is 5.5 mm front and 6 mm back.
Front caster is standard.
Camber is -1*
Toe is 0*
Front shock is all the way in on the top, in the inner hole towards the chassis on the bottom arm to clear the tires.
Rear Camber is -1*
Toe is stock 2.5*
Rear shock is second hole in on top, outer hole on the bottom.

I also now run carbon E4 shock towers front and back and the front one way in both cars.

Rear arm mod: Shave the first 3 mm off the front cone of the Rear lower arm and slide it forward with spacers. DRAMATIC handling increase. Do not use the FS rear arms! I tried, messed up the ride height badly.

Ackerman is left alone, All links are as high as I can get them and as far in as possible on the bulkhead.

I run an SMC 4000 28C and the wires route right past the ESC cooling plate. Any top routing lipo will work also. I have not tried the plug in connector type batteries at this point. If you need to add weight to the belt side, it fits perfectly right by the rear belt tension pulley on the bottom of the chassis and does not rub the belt. I think I have 4 pieces of lead in mine to balance it.

A gotcha or two, because the front wheels for VTA have such massive backspacing you will rub the inside of the tire if you don't set your end points. The steering arm can also make contact with the front pulley and will rip it to shreds.

I'm running PRS Spurs and pinions. Spur is 94, pinion is a 44 or 43 at the moment, but can go up to a 46 for a perfect 4.2. If you run 4.2 make sure you have the motor heat sink.

Tire tricks:

Tip 1: Don't race on new tires. Unlike TC Tires these things don't come in for a few races. Go clean off the form release and scuff them by running on clean pavement with out compound. The minute they shine goes away, you're set.

If you run carpet, sauce the whole front then practice. By the end of the day, I'm usually only running in on the inside 1/8 of the tire. I never pick up fuzz on my tires and never ever lose traction for the whole race. If the front end still slides after initial practice, add another -.5* camber.


for the gent who asked if this chassis is tweaked: NO, but it sure flexes nice.

Much appreciated, thanks

Don't stress over the drive train. It may never become as free as a two belt car. It doesn't seem to affect the performance as many stated on here. I been running 17.5 and 13.5 and have no problems keeping up with those funny looking two belt cars.:)

Just curious to find out what others were doing at the birids as I have been told that with some TLC and tweaking some guys picked up .3 a lap and motor temps dropped almost 60 degrees. That is huge! Waht FDR are you running with your 17.5, I cannot get any lower then 4.4 or it cooks. Need to try to get down to 3.9 or 4.0 if possible.

Wow 60 degrees that is huge. I'm currently running an FDR of 4.4 but that's with the boost timing on my Tekin speedo set to the max. Running that speedo setup I had to drop a few teeth on the pinion. With a fan my temps are around 150ish.

I belive you need more than 145 teeth total and no more than 152.
4/2.0588=1.943
147/1.943=75.6, But we need a hole number there so if you have a 75 tooth use that one.
75/1.943=38.6... ok 39
39+75=114
Ok so we need a small spur gear , But thats not going to reach with that gear combo. Let's try about 25% more.
93/1.943=47.8 ok call it 48
93+48=141 .... not quite enough teeth just yet. Only need a few more to mesh. I dont like running repeating grear ratios like 2.0 as its wears out the gears faster so ... lets try this one more time with a 99 tooth.
99/1.943=~51
99+51=150 Awesome and 2 teeth to spare on the pinion. We can always fine tune it with the spur gear too. But there you go
99 spur /51 pinion = 1.9412
1.9412 * 2.0588 = 3.996 I' call that a 4.0 final....

99/53 is a 3.85 so If you buy a 99 spur get 51, 52, 53 pinion.
Remember try to keep the total amount of teeth between 145 and 152! :tire:

I was running a 3.95 fdr at the birds in 17.5. It was a 96 spur and and 50 pinion. My motor was a hacker 17.5 and it had mad rip and a decent top speed. Motor came off at 140? No heatsink or fans on my car? Couldnt have went up probably two teeth without having to worry about heatsink or fan.

anyone?

Every plastic tub chassis will need to be replaced after a season of racing .. They will all eventually warp!

Yes Howard it was foam. Dave's car looked pretty good, I on the other hand didn't get the car working until it was too late. Oh well, more practice and testing will fix that. Met Wolf and the gang for the first time. Got to see the goodies they have coming. I ended up 7th in Trans Am with my E4RS. It drove great all week and makes a very good T/A car.