I also ran the tc5 before this car and the drivetrain was pretty good. Are you running on carpet? I took the seals off my carpet car and soaked the bearings in motor spray in a little jar. Got all the grease out of them. Then i just re-oiled them with a bearing oil. It helped alot with the drive train. I am using stock belts and bearings and my car spins pretty smoothly.

What's up guys!

What's is the best set-up for the spur and pinion gear on carpet? I'm running a E4 FS with rubber,Tekin RS 17.5, LiPo.

is there a trick to getting a brushless motor in and out. im usng a tekin and a orion and have to remove belt tensioner and mount?

How big is the track? Is it fast and swoopy or all turns?
go to
http://www.gearchart.com/index.cfm?f...n=chart.create
you need to know your internal ratio. if its the same as mine it's 2.0588
I'd start around 4.2 if its a small track. Use no more than 152 teeth and no less than 145 teeth combined and you will find a sweet spot for your track.
Good luck man!

Thanks I'll check it out. Right now I'm running a 51 pin, 88 spur.
I race at " The Track"
I say it's fast and swoopy.

What do you use for the springs??

milton..you race at mimis??? bring your car by i will be there saturday..will helpyou out

When it comes to gearing a motor, say 17.5. Does it matter how you achieve the FDR with a larger spur smaller spur, or larger spur and smaller spur. This should not matter but just wondering as it seems that 17.5 gearing is a huge topic right now.

The Track Milton is referring to is in Winthrop Harbor, Illinois.

It's a nice track about 85' x 30' and gets reset quite often (weekly).

I need TP 4 my bunghole..... do you have any oleo? :lol:

Has anyone ran the k factory rear hubs or front knuckles? Does that fix the slop? Would that be a posible fix for the people who are having the slop issue?

I run the rear hubs on mine and it still has a small amount of movement in it. I think most of this is also due to the way the CVD's go together as they have two pieces on the end. Maybe they should try a more traditional CVD axle. I have tried to mod up using other parts on mine so that I could use other cvd's that do not bind up at full lock. Could not get anything too work as of yet.

It doesnt have anything to do with the axels. It is a problem in the plastic parts. The damn holes are all too big for the bearings. I was told to try green loctite or super glue. But that sounds like a recipe for disaster !

Hi,

I need shock pistons with 3 holes. Which one can I use?

I've been told that the FK05 cvds are a direct fit but haven't tried them myself.

I'll try to take some pictures of my setup tonight. I've got xray cvds and axles on my car plus the Kfactory rear hubs and front C hubs.
It's a nice setup and a simpler design.:sneaky:

Well the bearings are very snug with the aluminum hubs they do not move at all. Get the rear hubs, even though they cost a fortune, you will be very happy with them.
YODOG: I wil look into this!

kewl... for the front too? hmm havnt had much luck with alu. front steering blocks. But anythings got to be better than what I have now.

I do not have the fronts, I do not think I will invest in anymore of the aluminum pieces for the car as they are way to high priced in my opinion.

Roger that man! But damn look at those billett side pullies and ...
well im still waiting for my steel battery tray ......zzzzzzz

Yes that is true, Xray FK05 cvds do fit.

Where might I be able to find a steel battery tray? I'm way light right now and that would be perfect.

I am working on making some steel and brass trays.
I will keep everyone posted as things progress. Here's a pic of the tray I have for my car and some pics I said I would post of my hubs. (no bearing slop at all)

Brass et!? hmmm i might want 1.
How much do your trsys weigh?

I'll post specs and options once I begin the production run.

I will start by posting 3D CAD images as I finish them.
Please not that although the brass trays will be sweet, they will cost more than the steel ones due to raw material costs.:tire::tire::tire::tire:

Thats ok.. brass is heavier than steel . I need almost 5.5 oz.

Ok here are the preliminary 3D images.

I will be making a spacer plate to add more weight for those using lighter Lipo packs with the bumps on the bottom. I will sell them as a set or seperate, just in case someone uses only larger packs without the bumps.
The tray will have cutouts for the bumps in order to get the pack as low in the chassis as possible.:sneaky:
Notice the recesses for strapping tape!

I have a SOLID 1 piece metal (heavy) battery tray...you know the person who originally create that. It is for foam chassis...but very good craftmanship.
Actually, it looks EXACTLY like what YoDog...may be YoDog did the prototype for "him" from last year September time...(P.S...I did not make that plate, I just owns it now)

Socko...when are you going up North and play toy cars with us? So I can have a good excuse to run foams (or may be the rubber 13.5)

I did not make the plate shown in the earlier picture but I do intend on making the one proposed in the 3D drawings.
It might have been made by the same guy that Solara mentioned. What did you guys pay for the steel ones, if I may ask? $70?
That's what I was told by the guy I bought my car from.

By the way, this plate is for the E4 rs and fs kits only.

Oh man.. thats sweet !

I just got one from Bitty Design in Italy. Its light, but that will allow the weight to be balanced out better.

Wow timing is everything.

We have been getting jerked around by one machine shop for the last 6 months. We should have dropped them sooner but it always seemed like if we just hung in there it would get done quicker. That was not the case. So I am happy to announce that we are now ready to ship our new steel battery tray. We have tested MANY versions and materials and have come up with this design. It is machined from solid steel (brass caused other problems so we abandoned it) and it is plated with black zinc. It is CNC machined and is optimized for a tight fit so that the battery doesn't "hammer" from side to side in the middle of turns. We also designed it to be as heavy as possible. The rationale is that if the car is heavy, material can be removed from the front, back or sides via belt sander or step drill to fine tune the balance. Since this is such an important part of a great handling E4 we have priced it with little regard to profit. Street price will be $49.95. This is less than some machine shops quoted just for the labor. We made 200 for the first production run so there should be plenty avaialble. They will be on our web site later tonight.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1231987955

We are also working on some other REALLY cool parts for the car to make the car even more competitive. More information will be released soon. I will tell you that a lot of titanium and 7075 aluminum is involved. The prototype parts are on my car now and all of our team cars will be runnning them at snowbird. Feel free to email us with any questions. They will ship Friday or Monday at the latest.

:D
i have an original e4 and the chassis has dimples in the middle and its not quite the same fit as the newer e4's. i bought onefrom a guy a while back and after dremmeling an 80 part i got it to fit, so i have 2 questions. will there be a version for people like me & price. looks very sweet by the way:D

post #1047 has a crappy pic of what im talking about, if you click it & see its the cut out for the bat in chassis, theres to little humps that protrude towards the center. and if i rember right i had to do somw trimmimg in the corners.

Geez Wolf, do you think you posted a big enough picture?

It's freeking my browser out!

Nice to see you are getting the trays done.:D
I think the ones I'm proposing will add a little more flavor though.


YGPM

:lol:haha i was thinking the same thing when i opened it, i was the like wtf? looks cool tho i like the engraving. What are the prices gonna be on the two?

Howard,

If all goes well I'll be up this Sat. to run the series race. Getting some last minute practice before the Snowbirds. I'll have my T/A and foam car along.

Socko

I have yet to asses the material cost.
I predict that the steel trays with the ballast/spacer will be in the neighborhood of $60 and the brass version will be closer to $80 it really depends on what kind of deal I can get on the brass stock.

I'm curious why Wolf abandoned the brass version, cost?:confused:

I've made some changes to the model...

"I have yet to asses the material cost."

haha you said "asses":D

Not cost . but the material is soft and doesnt stay flat i bet